
Class 
Book 



SB 93 



fo[yrighi>! J $7f 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



/ 



Gardening for Profit; 

A GUIDE TO THE SUCCESSFUL CULTIVATION 
OP THE 



MAEKET AND FAMILY GAEDEN. 



NEW AND ENLARGED EDITION. 



BY 

PETER HENDERSON, 

JERSEY CITY HEIGHTS, N. J. 



ILLUSTRATED. 



NEW YORK: 

ORANGE JTJDD COMPANY, 

245 BROADWAY. 







Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1874, by the 

ORANGE JTJDD COMPANY, 

In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 



CONTENTS. 

•c* 

Introduction 4 

Preface to Second Edition 7 

CHAPTER I. 
The Men Fitted for the Business of Gardening 9 

CHAPTER n. 

Amount of Capital Required and Working Force per Acre 14 

CHAPTER m. 

Profits of Market Gardening 18 

CHAPTER TV. 

The Market Gardens Near London 21 

CHAPTER V. 
Location, Situation, and Laying Out . . 24 

CHAPTER VI. 
Soils, Drainage, and Preparation 26 

CHAPTER VH. 
Manures 34 

CHAPTER VIIL 
Implements 39 

CHAPTER LX. 

The Uses and Management of Cold Frames 49 

CHAPTER X. 
The Formation and Management of Hot-Beds ••.••.•• 55 

CHAPTER XL 
Forcing Pits and Green-houses 63 

CHAPTER XIL 

Seeds and Seed Raising , 73 

CHAPTER XHL 

How, When, and Where to Sow Seeds 79 

CHAPTER XIV. 
Transplanting 90 

CH.\PTER XV. 
Packing of Vegetables for Shipping 94 

CHAPTER XVI. 

Preservation of Vegetables in Winter 96 

CHAPTER XVn. 

Insects — . • — 99 

CHAPTER XV 111. 

Vegetables, their Varieties and Cultivation 100 

Monthly Calendar ...... 86! 

3 



INTRODUCTION 



I hope it is no egotism to state that in both the Floral 
and Vegetable departments of Horticulture, in -which I 
have been engaged for the past eighteen years, I have been 
entirely successful. Now, we know, that success only 
is the test of good generalship, and it follows that, having 
been successful, I have thus earned my title to merit. 
From this standpoint, I claim the right to attempt the in- 
struction of the student of horticulture in the tactics of 
that field. 

We have very few works, either agricultural or horti- 
cultural, by American authors, whose writers are practical 
men, and fewer still of these who are men that have "risen 
from the ranks." The majority of such authors being ex- 
editors, lawyers, merchants, etc., men of means and edu- 
cation, who, engaging in the business as a pastime, in a 
year or two generously conclude to give the public the 
benefit of their experience — an experience, perhaps, that 
has been confined to a city lot, when the teachings were 
of the garden, or of a few acres in the suburbs, when the 
teachings were of- the farm. 



INTRODUCTION. V 

The practical farmer or gardener readily detects the ring 
of this spurious metal, and excusably looks upon all such 
instructors with contempt. To this cause, perhaps moro 
than any other, may be attributed the wide-spread preju- 
dice against book-farming and book-gardening, by which 
thousands shut themselves off from information, the pos- 
possession of which might save years of useless toil and 
privation. 

I have some pride, under present circumstances, in say- 
ing, that I have had a working experience in all depart- 
ments of gardening, from my earliest boyhood, and even 
to-day am far more at home in its manual operations than 
its literature, and have only been induced to write the fol- 
lowing pages at the repeated solicitations of friends and 
correspondents, to whose inquiries relative to commercial 
gardening, my time will no longer allow me to reply in- 
dividually. The work has been hurriedly written, at 
intervals snatched from the time which legitimately be- 
longed to my business, and therefore its text is likely 
to be very imperfect. I have endeavored, however, to be 
as concise and clear as possible, avoiding all abstruse or 
theoretical questions, which too often serve only to confuse 
and dishearten the man who seeks only for the instruction 
that shall enable him to practice. 

Although the directions given are mainly for the market 
garden, or for operations on a large scale, yet the amateur 
or private gardener will find no difficulty in modifying 
them to suit the smallest requirements. The commercial 
gardener, from the keen competition, ever going on in 
the vicinity of large cities, is, in his operations, taxed to 
bis utmost ingenuity to get at the most expeditious and 



VI GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

economical methods to produce the finest crops — methods, 
that we believe to be superior to those in general use in 
private gardens, and which may, with profit, be followed. 

Our estimates of labor, I trust, will not be overlooked ; 
for, I know, it is no uncommon thing for gentlemen to 
expect their gardeners to do impossibilities in this way. 
The private garden cannot be properly cropped and cared 
for with less labor than can our market gardens, and these, 
«ve know, require nearly the labor of one man to an acre, 
and that too, with every labor-saving arrangement in 
practice. When the care of green-houses, or graperies, is 
m addition to this, extra labor must be given accordingly, 
or something must suffer. 

The greatest difficulty that has presented itself to me 
m giving the directions for operations, has been the dates ; 
in a country having such an area and diversity of temper- 
ature as ours, directions could not well be given for the 
extremes, so as the best thing to be done under the cir- 
cumstances, I have taken the latitude of New York as a 
basis, and my readers must modify my instructions to suit 
their locality. The number of varieties of each vegetable 
described here, is very small in comparison with those that 
are known, or the seeds of which are offered for sale. I 
have given only such, as I have found most serviceable. 
Those who wish for a more extended list are referred to 
the excellent work by Fearing Burr, Jr., on Garden 
Vegetables. 

Jersey City Heights iV. «/., 

December 1st, 1866. 



PREFACE TO SECOND EDITION. 

It is now seven years since I wrote " Gardening for 
Profit," and, although it has met with a reception that 
has been exceedingly flattering, I have ever since felt that 
it was too hurriedly done, and far from complete. The 
suggestions and queries made to me by some of the many 
thousands of its readers, have been the means of develop- 
ing many new ideas and plans for better cultivation, which 
I have the pleasure to embody in this edition. A new 
edition of a work of this kind becomes necessary every 
few years, to enable it to keep pace with the improvement 
in varieties, as well as in modes of culture. In the pres- 
ent edition, the part of the work treating of varieties has 
been carefully revised, and we believe the kinds described 
to be, as a whole, the best in their respective classes this 
day in use, either for private or commercial purposes. It 
is gratifying to know, by letters from every section of the 
country, that the publication of this work has been the 
means of helping to success thousands of inexperienced 
cultivators of the soil, of both classes — those " Gardening 
for Pleasure," as well as those " Gardening for Profit." It 
is true that some that have been induced to engage in the 
business by reading my book have failed. Such must ever 
be the case — less or more — in every business ; but I have 
good reason to believe that the percentage of failures in 
gardening is less than that of almost any other business. 

Petes Henderson. 
Jersey City Heights, IT. «7., 

January, 1874. 



GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 



CHAPTER I. 

THE MEN FITTED FOR THE BUSHsTESS OF 
GARDEOTNG. 



Although we shall here show the business of garaen* 
ing to be a profitable one, let no man deceive himself by 
supposing that these profits are attainable without steady 
personal application. 

Having been long known as extensively engaged in the 
business, I am applied to by scores every season, asking 
how they can make their lands available for garden 
purposes. The majority of these are city merchants, who 
for investment, or in anticipation of a rural retreat in the 
autumn of their days, have purchased a country place, 
and in the mean time they wish to make it pay ; they have 
read or heard that market gardening is profitable, and they 
think it an easy matter to hire a gardener to work the place, 
9 



10 GARDENING FOR PROFI1 

while they attend their own mercantile duties as before 
They are usually gentlemen of horticultural tendencies, 
read all the magazines and books on the subject, and from 
the knowledge thus obtained, plume themselves with the 
ymceit that they are able to guide the machine. 

Many hundreds from our large cities delude themselve. 9 
m this way every season, in different departments of hor 
ticulture ; perhaps more in the culture of fruits than of 
vegetables. I have no doubt that thousands of acres aro 
annually planted, that in three years afterwards are aban- 
doned, and the golden dreams of these sanguine gentle- 
men forever dissipated. Although the workers of the 
soil will not, as a class, compare in intelligence with the 
mercantile men of the cities, it is a mistake to suppose 
that this want of education or intelligence is much of a 
drawback, when it comes to cultivating strawberries or 
cabbages. True, the untutored mind does not so readily 
comprehend theoretical or scientific knowledge, but for 
that very reason it becomes more thoroughly practical, 
and I must say that, as far as my experience has gone, 
(without being thought for a moment to derogate against 
the utility of a true scientific knowledge in all matters 
pertaining to the soil), that any common laborer, with or- 
dinary sagacity, and twelve months' practical working in 
a garden, would have a far better chance of success, other 
things being equal, than another without the practice, 
even if he had all the writings, from Liebig's down, at his 
fingers' ends. Not that a life long practice is absolutely 
necessary to success, for I can see, from where I write, the 
homes at least of half a dozen men, all now well to do in 
the world, not one of whom had any knowledge of gar 



MEN FITTED FOR THE BUSINESS. 11 

dening, either practical or theoretical, when they started 
the business, but they were all active working men, " ac- 
tual settlers," and depended alone on their own heads and 
hands for success, and not on the doubtful judgment and 
industry of a hired gardener, who had no further interest 
in the work than his monthly salary. 

"D. H.," writes me thus: "I am a book-keeper with 
a salary from which I can save but little; but by 
rigid economy during a series of years, I have scraped 
together $2,000. My health is only ordinary. With 
that capital can I succeed as a market gardener by hir- 
ing an experienced gardener?" This inquiry is a type 
of hundreds I now receive annually, and to which may 
be given this general reply. From the nature of the 
question no very definite answer can be given, though I 
would say that the chances are two to one against suc- 
cess. It is a well-known fact that the chances of suc- 
cess in mercantile business are even far less than this. 
" D. H." may be a capital book-keeper, yet it is doubtful 
if he has the necessary endurance to stand the wear on 
the constitution that market gardening involves. If he 
concludes to start at gardening, he is more likely than 
not to select a soil entirely unsuited to the purpose. In 
most sections of the country there are fewer soils suitable 
for the cultivation of vegetables than there are those that 
are unsuitable. Again, he is an educated man, and this 
very fact would be rather against him than otherwise ; as 
it would naturally incline him to refined society and asso^ 
ciations, which I am sorry to say the beginner in market 
gardening can not possibly afford to indulge in. The 
hiring of an "experienced gardener" would take all the 



12 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

cream off of the profits ; experienced market gardeners 
are exceedingly scarce ; our laborers in the market gar- 
dens are generally an ignorant class, with very little 
ambition, and not one in a hundred of them is fit to 
manage. Though employing forty hands myself, I have 
often been sadly at a loss to select from them a suitable 
man as foreman, though many of them had been with me 
for years. When one shows the necessary ability, his 
services are much sought after, and he readily commands 
$500 or $600 a year and board. Clerks, book-keepers, 
and city-bred men generally, are not the ones likely to be 
successful as workers of the soil; few of them have any 
conception of the labor required to be done to insure suc- 
cess. I started business in Jersey City at the age of 
23, with a capital of $500, which it had taken me three 
years to make as a working gardener. For the first five 
years I was in business, I can safely say that we worked,, 
on an average, sixteen hours a day, winter and summer, 
with rarely a day for recreation. Now the majority of 
clerks, book-keepers, or salesmen do not work much more 
than half that time, and few of them could endure this 
lengthened strain in a summer's sun, and without this 
endurance success is out of the question; for all begin- 
ners to-day must do as I did until they get their heads 
above water, or else, such is the competition, they must 
go to the wall in the business ; I therefore caution all such 
who are not in robust health, to avoid either farming or 
gardening, if their necessities require them to make a 
living thereby. That the work of the gardener is con- 
ducive to health when that has not been impaired, there 
is no question ; but the long hours of labor and the ex- 



MEN FITTED FOR THE BUSINESS. 13 

posure necessary to success must tell against a feeble 
constitution. 

The business of market gardening, though pleasant, 
healthful, and profitable, is a laborious one, from which 
any one, not accustomed to manual labor, would quickly 
shrink. The labor is not what may be termed heavy, but 
the hours are long ; not less than an average of 12 hours 
a day, winter and summer. No one should begin it after 
passing the meridian of life ; neither is it fitted for men of 
weak or feeble physical organization, for it is emphatically 
a business in which one has to rough it ; in summer plant- 
ing, when it is of the utmost importance to get the plants 
in when raining, we repeatedly work for hours in drench- 
ing rains, and woe be to the "boss," or foreman, who 
would superintend the operation under the protection of 
an umbrella ; he must take his chances with the rank and 
file, or his prestige, as a commander, is gone. 



CHAPTER II 

THE AMOUNT OF CAPITAL REQUIRED, AND 
WORKING FORCE PER ACRE. 



The small amount of capital required to begin fanning 
operations, creates great misconception of what is neces- 
sary for commercial gardening; for, judging from the 
small number of acres wanted for commencing a garden, 
many suppose that a few hundred dollars is all sufficient 
for a market gardener. For want of information on this 
subject, hundreds have failed, after years of toil and priva* 
tion. At present prices, (1874), no one would be safe to 
start the business of vegetable market gardening, in the 
manner it is carried on in the neighborhood of New York, 
with a capital of less than $300 per acre, for anything less 
than ten acres ; if on a larger scale, it might not require 
quite so much. The first season rarely pays more than 
current expenses, and the capital of 8300 per acre is all 
absorbed in horses, wagons, glass, manures, etc. If the 
capital be insufficient to procure these properly, the 
chance of success is correspondingly diminished. 

I can call to mind at least a dozen cases that have occur- 
14 



AMOUNT OF CAPITAL REQUIRED. 15 

n,i in my immediate neighborhood within the last five 
years, where steady industrious men have utterly failed, 
and lost every dollar they possessed, merely by attempt- 
ing the business with insufficient capital. A few years 
ago, a man called upon me and stated that he was about 
to become my neighbor, that he had leased a place of 
twenty acres alongside of mine for ten years, for $000 per 
year, for the purpose of growing vegetables, and asked 
me what I thought of his bargain. I replied that the 
place was cheap enough, only I was afraid he had got too 
much land for that purpose, if he attempted the working 
of it all. I further asked him what amount of capital he 
had, and he told me that he had about $1000. I said that 
I was sorry to discourage him, but that it was better for 
him to know that the amount was entirely inadequate to 
begin with, and that there was not one chance in fifty that 
he would succeed, and that it would be better, even then, 
to relinquish the attempt ; but he had paid $150 for a 
quarter's rent in advance, and could not be persuaded from 
making the attempt. The result was as I expected ; he be- 
gan operations in March, his little capital was almost swal- 
lowed up in the first two months, and the few crops he had 
put in were so inferior, that they were hardly worth send- 
ing to market. Without money to pay for help, his place 
got enveloped in weeds, and by September of the same 
year, he abandoned the undertaking. 

Had the same amount of capital and the same energy 
been expended on three or four acres, there is hardly a 
doubt that success would have followed. Those who wish 
to live by gardening, cannot be too often told the danger 
of spreading over too large an area, more particularly in 



16 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

starting. With a small capital, two or three acres may 
be profitably worked ; while if ten or twelve were at- 
tempted with the same amount, it would most likely re- 
sult in failure. Many would suppose, that if three acres 
could be leased for $100 per year, that twenty acres would 
be cheaper at $500 ; nothing can be more erroneous, un- 
less the enterprise be backed up with the necessary capi- 
tal — $300 per acre. For be it known, that the rental or 
interest on the ground used for gardening operations is 
usually only about 10 per cent, of the working expenses, 
so that an apparently cheap rent, or cheap purchase, does 
not very materially affect the result. It is very different 
from farming operations, where often the rent or interest 
on purchase money amounts to nearly half the expenses. 

The number of men employed throughout the year on 
a market garden of ten acres, within three miles of mar- 
ket, planted in close crop, averages seven ; this number is 
varied in proportion, somewhat, according to the quantity 
of glass in use. I have generally employed more than 
that ; fully a man to an acre, but that was in consequence 
of having in use more than the ordinary proportion of 
sashes. This may seem to many an unnecessary force for 
such a small area ; but all our experience proves, that any 
attempt to work with less, will be unprofitable. What 
with the large quantity of manure indispensable, 75 tons 
per acre ; the close planting of the crops, so that every 
foot will tell ; the immense handling preparatory for mar- 
ket, to be done on a double crop each season, one market- 
ed in mid-summer, another in fall and winter, a large and 
continued amount of labor is required. On lands within 
a short distance of market — say two miles — two horses 



AMOUNT OP CAPITAL REQUIRED. 17 

are sufficient ; but when double that distance, three are 
necessary. When three animals are required, it is most 
profitable to use a team of mules to do the plowing and 
heavy hauling of manure, etc., and do the marketing by a 
Btrong active horse. Every operation in cultivating the 
ground is done by horse labor, whenever practicable to do 
so ; but it must be remembered that the crops of a garden 
are very different from those of a farm ; the land is in 
most cases (particularly for the first crops) planted so 
close, that nothing will do to work with but the hoe» 



CHAPTER in. 

PROFITS OF MARKET GARDENING. 



This is rather a difficult if not a delicate matter to touch, 
as the profits are so large, in some instances, as almost to 
exceed belief, and so trifling, under other conditions, as 
hardly to be worth naming. These latter conditions, how- 
ever, are generally where men have started on unsuitable 
soils, too far from market, or without money enough to 
have ever got thoroughly under way. But as the object 
of this work is to endeavor to show how the business can 
be made a profitable one, I will endeavor to approximate 
to our average profits per acre. As a rule, it may be 
premised that for every additional acre over ten, the prof- 
its per acre will to some extent diminish, from the fact 
that a larger area cannot be so thoroughly worked as a 
smaller one ; besides there will often be a loss in price by 
having to crowd larger quantities of produce into market, 
and to leave it in the hands of inexperienced salesmen • 
the majority of our products are quickly perishable, ant 
must be sold when ready. 

The average profits for the past fifteen years on all well 

cultivated market gardens in this vicinity, has certainly 

not been less than $300 per acre. For the past five years, 

(from 1861 to 1866), they have been perhaps one-third 

18 



PBOFITS OF MARKET GARDENING. 19 

more ; but these were years of " war prices," such as we 
will be well content never to see again. These profits are 
for the products of the open gardens only, not of the 
frames or forcing pits, which are alluded to elsewhere. 
These amounts are for the neighborhood of New York, 
which I think, from the vast competition in business, ia 
likely to be a low average for the majority of towns and 
cities throughout the country. Certain it is, that from 
our lands, even at a value of from $1000 to $5000 per acre, 
we can and do profitably grow and supply the majority 
of towns within fifty miles around New York with fresh 
vegetables. In these cases, no doubt, the consumer pays 
full double the price that the raiser receives, for they 
generally pass through the hands of two classes of " mid- 
dle-men," before they reach the consumer ; besides which 
there are extra charges for packing, shipping, and freight. 
Thus the consumer, in a couutry town, where land often 
is not as much in value per acre as it is here per lot, 
pays twice the value for his partially stale vegetables or 
fruits, which he receives rarely sooner than twenty-four 
hours after they are gathered. 

In most of such towns, market gardening, carried on 
after our manner, would, unquestionably, be highly remu- 
nerative ; for if these articles were offered to the consumer 
fresh from the gardens, he would certainly be willing to 
pay more for his home-grown products, than from the bruis* 
ed and battered ones that are freighted from the metropo- 
lis. Take for example the article of Celery, which pays us 
very well at 2 cents per root. There is hardly a city or 
town in the country, except New York, but where it sella 
for twice, and in some cases six times, that price per root ; 



20 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

yet the great bulk of this article sold in Philadelphia, ia 
sent from New York, for which the consumer must pay at 
least double the price paid here, for it is a bulky and ex- 
pensive article to pack and ship, and must of a necessity 
pay a profit, both to the agent here and in Philadelphia, 
which of course comes out of the pocket of the consumer. 
This is only one of many such articles of which the cul- 
ture is imperfectly understood, and which the great mar- 
ket of New York is looked to for a supply. 

The following will show the rate of receipts and ex- 
penditures for one acre of a few of the leading articles we 
cultivate, taking the average of the past ten years, from 
the grounds that have been brought up to the proper 
standard of fertility necessary to the market garden. 

Expenditures fob One Acre. 

Labor 8300 

Horse-labor 35 

Manure, 75 tons 100 

Rent 50 

Seeds 10 

Wear and Tear of Tools, etc 10 

Cost of Selling 100 

$605 
Receipts for One Acre. 

12,000 Early Cabbages, at 5 cts. per head $600 

14,000 Lettuce, at 1 cent per bead 140 

80,000 Celery, at 2 cts. per head 600 

$1340 
605 

$735 

The rotation crops of Early Beets, or Cmions, followed 

by Horseradish, or Sweet Herbs, as a second crop, give 

nearly the same results. 



CHAPTER IV. 

THE MARKET GARDENS NEAR LONDON. 



For years I have been anxious to see and compare the 
market gardens of London with those of New York, and 
in the summer of 1872 I had an opportunity to do so. 

The extent and thorough culture of these gardens is 
something wonderful. One of the best I saw was in the 
vicinity of Tottenham, owned by a Mr. Hollington. It 
comprised about a hundred acres, every foot of which 
was planted in close crop, and, as far as could be seen, it 
would have been difficult to have picked -up a bushel of 
weeds on the whole of the hundred acres. Mr. Holling- 
ton's success in twenty years equals, if it does not sur- 
pass, any of which we have record in America. When 
he took possession of these hundred acres, twenty years 
ago, he did so at a nominal rent, but without a lease, 
with the condition, however (a very unfortunate one for 
the owner), that the owner might enter upon possession 
at any time by paying him the value of the crop upon it. 
Mr. H., a man of great energy and shrewdness, at once 
saw his advantage, and took care that his grounds should 
at all seasons be cropped to the fullest extent, a thing 
which can be better done in England than with us. The 
result was that when the owner one day took it into his 
head to take possession, he discovered that he would 
have to pay more for the crop than the land was worth, 
and there was nothing for him to do but to sell to the 
tenant, or go on receiving the nominal sum for rent. 
21 



22 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

The result was that Mr. H. bought the land, and is now 
perhaps the wealthiest market gardener around London. 

The next grounds I visited were those of George Steele 
& Sons, of Fulham, a point nearer to the city. These 
grounds were also a model of order and neatness, although 
a week previous three-fourths of the workmen had struck 
for higher wages, and had gone to hay-making, leaving 
the owners in a bad plight. The garden comprised fifty 
acres, and the full number of hands was seventy-five. 
Now there were less than twenty, and these second-rate. 

Why, it may be asked, does it require seventy-five 
men for fifty acres ? Simply because John Bull will not 
believe that land can be better dug with a plow and har- 
row than with a spade. I took some time to argue the 
point with Mr. Steele, and he declared that the morrow 
would see for the first time a plow in the market gardens 
of Fulham. Once there, it will remain, for there is no 
one who has had practice with both methods but knows 
that no digging with a spade or fork can bring the soil 
to the mellow condition that the plow and harrow can. 
Upon grounds of the extent of Mr. Steele's the use of the 
plow will save full one-third of the labor. 

Here, too, and at Mr. Hollington's, they were using 
another very primitive tool, which I did not venture to 
say anything about, for I thought I had trodden hard 
enough on John's conservative toes for one day. The 
tool in question was a planting-stick made out of a spade- 
handle, just such as was in use thirty years ago by the 
cottagers of England or Scotland to set out a few dozen 
Cabbage or Lettuce plants for their own use. Yet here, 
where millions on millions of plants had to be set out, no 



THE MARKET GARDENS NEAR LONDON. 23 

better implement had been thought of. The spade-handle 
dibber, even in the most experienced hands, is a waggling 
implement, and is hardly more to be compared in effective- 
ness to the pistol-handled dibber in use by the gardeners 
of New York than a sickle is to a cradle in a wheat-field, 
I found one practice in Messrs. Steele's grounds which 
our market gardeners might imitate with profit. The 
practice is a very old one, and has been in use probably 
for fifty years, but it is not much followed, if at all, 
by market gardeners in the vicinity of New York, Phila- 
delphia, or Boston, where its advantages would be even 
greater than those around London. It is the use of the 
common hand-glass, of a size about two feet on the side. 
These would cost with us probably 75 cents or $1 each. 
Messrs. Steele use these glasses in large numbers to for- 
ward Cauliflower for heading. They are placed at dis- 
tances of two feet apart, and three plants of Cauliflower 
are planted under each. The hand-glasses are tilted up 
for ventilation in sunny weather — used, in fact, just as 
we use a hot-bed or cold-frame, and the Cauliflowers are 
forwarded probably two weeks earlier than they would 
be in the open ground. Of course there is not room 
under the glasses for the three plants of Cauliflower to 
form their heads there, but the object is to forward them 
so that they will be large enough to head in the open 
ground when the glasses are taken off — a most important 
matter with us, as we find the trouble always is that we 
can not get the Cauliflowers large enough until they are 
checked by our hot and dry weather in June. Thus for- 
warded in New York, I think it safe to say they would 
readily bring $1.50 for each hand-glass. 



CHAPTER V. 

LOCATION, SITUATION, AND LAYING OUT. 



Location. — Before deciding on the spot for a garden, 
U,.>much caution cannot be used in selecting the locality ; 
mistakes in this matter are often the sole cause of want 
of success, even when all other conditions are favorable. 
It is always better to pay a rent or interest of $50 or even 
$100 per acre on land one or two miles from market, than 
to take the same quality of land, 6 or 7 miles distant, for 
nothing ; for the extra expense of teaming, procuring ma- 
nure, and often greater difficulty in obtaining labor, far 
more than counterbalance the difference in the rental of the 
land. Another great object in being near the market is, 
that one can thereby take advantage of the condition of 
prices, which often, in perishable commodities like garden 
produce, is very variable. It not unfrequently happens that 
from scarcity or an unusual demand, there wiil be a differ- 
ence of $25 or $30 per load, even in one day, hence if near 
a market, larger quantities can be thrown in than if at a 
distance., and the advantage of higher rates be taken. 

This disadvantage in distance only holds good in perish- 
21 



LOCATION, SITUATION, AND LAYING OUT. 



25 



able articles, that are bulky; the lighter and valuable 
crops, such as Tomatoes, Cucumbers, Lettuce, Radishes, 
etc., from more southerly and earlier localities, are grown 
often hundreds of miles distant, and freighted to market 
at a handsome profit. So with less perishable articles, such 
as dry roots of Carrots, Beets, Parsnips, Horseradish, etc. ; 
but the necessity of nearness to market for the bulky and 
perishable crops, is imperative. 

Situation and Laying-out. — It is not always that 
choice can be made in the situation of or aspect of the 
ground ; but whenever it can be made, a level spot should 
be selected, but if there be any slope, let it be to the south. 
Shelter is of great importance in producing early crops, 
and if a position can be got where the wind is broken off 
by woods or hills, to the north, or northwest, such a situa- 
tion would be very desir- 



able. In the absence of 
this, we find it necessary 
to protect, at least our forc- 
ing and framing grounds, 
with high board fences, or 
better yet, belts of Norway 
Spruce. The most conve- 
nient shape of the garden 
is a square or oblong form ; 




Fig. 1. — PLAN OF GROUND. 



if square, a road 12 feet 
wide should be made through the centre, intersected 
by another road of similar width, see (fig. 1) ; but if ob- 
long, one road of the same width, running through the , 
centre in a plot of ten acres, will be sufficient. 

Vegetable House, Wells, etc. — Connected with ev- 



2G GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

ery market garden is a vegetable house, usually about 25 
feet square, having a frost-proof cellar, over which is the 
vegetable or washing house. In the second story is a loft 
for seeds, storage, etc. Immediately outside the vegeta- 
ble house is the well, from which the water is pumped to 
a tub in one corner of the building, on each side of which 
are erected benches of convenient hight on which the 
workmen tie and wash the vegetables preparatory to 
sending them to market. 



CHAPTER VI. 

SOILS, DRAINAGE, AND PREPARATION. 



In the course of an experience of nearly twenty years as a 
market gardener, in the neighborhood of New York, I have 
had, in the prosecution of the business, the opportunity 
of reclaiming large tracts of very different varieties of soil. 
Some of these, almost the first season, yielded a handsome 
profit, while with others, the labor of years, and the ex- 
penditure of large sums in extra manuring and draining, 
have never been able to bring these uncongenial soils up 
to the proper standard of productiveness. 

On many occasions I have referred to the great impor- 
tance of selecting a proper quality of soil for all garden- 
ing and farming operation?, and the fact cannot be too 
often nor too forcibly impressed that success hinges more 



SOILS, DRAINAGE. AND PREPARATION. 27 

directly upon this than on anything else. Thousands are 
every year ruined by a bad selection of soil. I have 
scores come to me in the course of every season for advice 
in this matter of soils, but in most instances the advice is 
asked too late; the majority of the applicants having been 
unfortunate enough to buy or rent land that they had 
been led to believe was excellent, but only " run down." 
In my opinion this wide-spread notion of "exhausted 
lands " is, to a great extent, a fallacy, and that most of 
the lands said to be so exhausted never were good, and no 
power on earth short of spreading a good soil over them 
a foot thick, would ever make them good. 

The practical test of the importance of a good soil for 
market garden operations is clearly shown in a score of 
cases in my vicinity. Wherever a man of ordinary indus- 
try and intelligence has been fortunate enough to locate on 
land that is naturally good his success has been certain, 
while others that have not been able to procure such land 
have had to struggle far harder for less returns ; in some 
few instances entire failure has been the case, for the rea- 
son that the soil started on was unfitted for the purpose. 

The variety of soil that we value above all others, is an 
alluvial saline deposit, rarely found over more than a mile 
inland from the tide mark. It is of dark heavy loam, con- 
taining, throughout, a large mixture of decomposing oyster 
and other shells ; it averages from 10 to 30 inches deep, 
overlaying a subsoil of yellow sandy loam. The next 
best variety is somewhat lighter soil, both in color and 
specific gravity, from 8 to 15 inches deep, having a similar 
subsoil to the above. Then we have a still lighter soil, in 
both senses of the term, in which the sand predominates 



28 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

oyer the loam, and laying on a subsoil of pure sand ; this 
variety of soil is well adapted for Melons, Cucumbers, 
Sweet Potatoes, Radishes, and Tomatoes, but is almost 
useless for growing crops of Onions, Cabbages, or Celery. 
We have still another kind of soil, which I place last, as 
being of the least value for the purpose of growing vege- 
tables ; this variety, singularly enough, is found on the 
highest points only, its color is somewhat lighter than the 
variety first mentioned ; it is what is termed a clayey loam, 
averaging ten inches in depth, under which is a thick stra- 
tum of stiff bluish clay. With a subsoil of this nature, it 
is almost useless to attempt to grow early vegetables for 
market purposes. 

I have just such a soil, as the last mentioned, thoroughly 
drained three feet deep, the drains only 18 feet apart, and 
yet, in another garden, that I work, having the two first 
named soils and only one mile distant, manured and culti- 
vated the same in all respects, fruits and vegetables are 
ready from 5 to 10 days earlier. But for the succession, 
or second crops, such as Celery, etc., this stiff cold soil 
is just what is wanted ; earliness with these is not the ob- 
ject, and its " coldness " is congenial to the roots of the 
late crop. But if selection can be made for general pur- 
poses, choose a rather dark-colored loam soil, neither 
"sandy" nor "clayey,'* as deep as can be found, but not 
less than 12 inches. If it overlay a sandy loam of yellow- 
ish color, through which water will pass freely, you have 
struck the right spot, and abundant crops can be raised 
under proper management. When selecting land, do not 
be deceived by any one who tells you, that if not natur- 
ally good, the soil may be made so by cultivation and 



SOILS, DRAINAGE, AND PREPARATION. 29 

manure. These will help, certainly, but only as education 
improves the shallow mind. Luxuriant crops can no more 
be expected from a thin and poor soil — no matter how 
much it is cultivated — than fertile ideas from a shallow 
brain, educate it as you will. 

Drainage. — Every operator in the soil concedes the 
importance of drainage, yet it is really astonishing to ob- 
serve how men will work wet lands year after year, wast- 
ing annually, by loss of crops, twice the amount required 
to thoroughly drain. A most industrious German, in this 
vicinity, cultivated about 8 acres for 3 years, barely mak- 
ing a living ; his soil was an excellent loam, but two-thirds 
of it was so " spongy," that he could never get it plowed 
until all his neighbors had their crops planted. Driving 
past one day, I hailed him, asking him why he was so late 
in getting in his crop, when he explained that if he had 
begun sooner, his horses would have " bogged " so, he 
might never have got them out again. I suggested drain- 
ing, but he replied that would never pay on a leased place ; 
he had started on a ten years lease, which had only 7 
years more to run, and that he would only being improv- 
ing it for his landlord, who would allow him nothing for 
such improvement. After some further conversation I 
asked him to jump into my wagon, and in 10 minutes we 
alighted at a market garden, that had 6 years before been 
just such a swamp hole as his own, but now, (the middle 
of May), was luxuriant with vegetation. I explained to 
him what its former condition had been, and that the in- 
vesting of $500, in drain tiles, would, in 12 months, put his 
in the same condition. He, being a shrewd man, acted on 
the advice, and at the termination of his lease, purchased 



30 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

and paid for his 8 acres $12,000, the savings of six years 
on his drained garden. I honestly believe, that, had he 
gone on without draining, he would not have made $1200 
in 12 years, far less $12,000 in 6 years. My friend esti- 
mates his whole success in life to our accidental meeting: 
and conversation that May morning, and consequently 

1 have no stauncher friend on earth than he. 

.The modes of draining must be guided to a great ex- 
tent by circumstances ; wherever stones are abundant on 
land, the most economical way to dispose of them, is to 
use them for drainage. I have also used with great suc- 
cess, in a wet sandy subsoil, where digging was easily 
done, brush, from adjacent woods cut off, and trod firmly 

2 feet deep in the bottom of drains 5 feet deep, overlaying 
the brush with straw or meadow hay before covering in. 
Drains so made, have answered well for nearly a dozen 
years, and in situations where no other material offers, 
they will at least answer a temporary purpose. But un- 
questionably, when at all attainable, at anything like 
reasonable cost, the cheapest and most thorough draining 
is by tile. We use here the ordinary horse-shoe tile ; 3- 
inch size for the laterals, and from 5 to 6 inch for the 
mains. On stiff clayey soils, we make our lateral drains 

3 feet deep, and from 15 to 18 feet apart ; on soils with 
less compact subsoils, from 20 to 25 feet distant. We find 
it cheaper to use the horse-shoe than the sole tile ; in lieu 
of the sole we cut common hemlock boards in 4 pieces ; 
that is, cut them through the middle, and split these again, 
making a board, thus cut, run about 50 feet ; these are 
placed in the bottom of the drains, and prevent the sag- 
ging of the tiles in any particular spot that might be soft, 



SOILS, DRAINAGE, AND PREPARATION. 



31 



(no*. 2). We are particularly careful to place, after set- 
ting, a piece of sod, grass down, over the joinings of the 




Fig. 2. — HORSE-SHOE TILE. 

tiles, to prevent the soil from getting in and stopping up 
the drainage. 

The manner of constructing stone drains, is governed 
by the character of the stone on hand ; if round, they are 
best made as rubble drains, (fig. 3) ; but if flat, which is 
much the best, they are made as represented by fig. 4. 




Fig. 3.— RUBBLE DRAIN. 




Fig. 4. — FLAT STONE DRAIN. 



But in either case, the same care must be exercised in cov- 
ering over the top, thoroughly, with sod, shavings, straw, 
or some similar material, in quantity sufficient to prevent 
the soil from washing in and filling up the cavity. 

Preparation of the Ground. — Assuming that the 
ground on which the garden is to be formed is in sod, the 



32 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

best time to begin operations is in September, October, or 
November. If draining is necessary, that should be first 
completed. Before the sod is plowed, it would greatly 
assist its rotting, if horse manure can be obtained, to spread 
it over the surface, to the depth of two or three inches. In 
plowing the sod under, care should be taken to have it laid 
as flat as possible ; this can be best done by plowing shal- 
low, and at this time there is no particular necessity for 
deep plowing. After plowing, we find it advantageous to 
flatten down the furrows, by running over with the bach 
of the harrow ; this mellows the soil so that it fills up the 
crevices left between the furrows, and hastens the de- 
composition of the sod. If the plowing has been done 
early enough in the fall, so that the sod has had time to 
rot the same season, it will facilitate the operations of 
next spring to cross plow and thoroughly harrow ; but if 
too late, this had better be deferred until spring. After 
the ground has been well broken up by this second plow- 
ing and harrowing, it should again be manured over the 
whole surface with rough stable manure, as much as can 
well be procured ; there is rarely danger of getting too 
much, and the third plowing takes place, followed this 
time by the subsoiler. I have always found it best, in 
breaking in new ground, to crop with Potatoes, Corn, or 
late Cabbages the first season, — it rarely indeed happens 
that any amount of labor or manuring can so prepare the 
ground, the first season, as to bring it to that high degree 
of tilth necessary for growing garden vegetables as they 
should be grown, and any attempt to do so, will result in 
a meagre crop, which will not pay — at least in such dis 
fcricts as New York, where there is always abundance oi 



SOILS, DRAINAGE, AND PREPARATION. 33 

products of the first quality. It must not be expected 
that the crops of Potatoes, etc., will give much profit 
for this unusual outlay in preparation and manure, for 
they certainly will not, and the beginner must be content 
to wait for his profits until the second season; these are 
certain to be realized if these preparations have been prop- 
erly made, hence it will be seen the necessity for capital in 
this business, for the returns, though highly remunerative, 
ire not quick. 



CHAPTER VII 

MANURES. 



The quantity, quality, and proper application of ma- 
nures, is of the utmost importance in all gardening opera- 
tions, and few have any conception of the immense quantity 
necessary to produce the heavy crops seen in our market 
gardens. Of stable or barn-yard manure, from 50 to 100 
tons per acre is used, and prepared, for at least six months 
previously, by thorough turning and breaking up to pre- 
vent its heating unduly. The usual method is to have the 
manure-yard formed in a low part of the garden, but if 
there is no natural depression, one may be made by dig- 
ging out from 18 to 24 inches deep, and enclosing it by a 
fence about 6 feet in hight. The wagons are driven along- 
side, and the green manure thrown into the enclosure, 
care being taken to have it spread regularly ; hogs are 
usually kept upon the manure in numbers sufficient to 
break it up, they being fed in part by the refuse vege- 
tables and weeds of the garden. 

The manure of horses is most valued, as we consider it, 

weight for weight, of about one-third more value than that 

of cows or hogs ; on stiff soils it is of mueh more benefit 
34 



MANURES. 35 

as a pulverizer. There are many articles, the refuse of 
manufactures, that are still wasted, that have great value 
as manures. Among others, and of first importance, is 
the refuse hops from the breweries. It is a dozen years 
ago since they first began to be used in our gardens about 
New York; at first they were to be had almost at 
every brewery without cost, but the demand has so in- 
creased, that the price to-day ranges even higher than that 
of the best stable manure. Aside from its high fertilizing 
properties, it is excellent for breaking up and pulverizing 
the soil, and as a top-dressing or mulching, either to pro- 
tect from the sun in summer, or from the frost in winter, 
it has no equal. From my experience with this fertilizer, 
I consider it to be of nearly double the value of that of 
stable manure. It requires to be composted in the same 
manner as other manure ; it heats rapidly, and must be 
either spread regularly over the hog yard, or else turned 
once in two weeks to prevent " fire-fang," from violent 
heating. 

Another valuable refuse from our manufactories is the 
shavings and scrapings from horn, or whale-bone manu- 
factories. The best way to render these most available, 
is to compost them thoroughly with hot manure, in the 
proportion of one ton of shavings to fifteen of manure ; 
the heated manure extracts the oil from the shavings, 
which is intermingled with the whole. I have on several 
occasions seen the mixture of five tons of whale-bone 
shavings with our ordinary stable manure, make $400 per 
acre difference in the value of the crop ; but of course 
such manufactories are not common, and it is only in cer« 
tain localities that this fertilizer can be had. 



36 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

Another valuable fertilizer from manufactories is " sugar 
house scum," which is composed largely of olood, char- 
coal, and saccharine refuse ; as it heats violently, instead 
of being thrown in heaps "by itself, it should be composted 
wi th equal quantities of soil or muck, and turned frequent- 
ly, so that the whole is thoroughly mixed ; thus when 
composted, it makes an excellent manure at twenty tons 
per acre ; it is best applied by lightly plowing, or deeply 
harro wing-in. 

Of concentrated manures, perhaps the best for general 
purposes, is pure Peruvian guano ; this for general crops, 
when used without the addition of stable manures, is put 
on at the rate of from 1000 to 1200 pounds per acre ; it is 
first pounded to powder so that it can be regularly sown 
over the surface, after plowing ; it is then thoroughly har- 
rowed in, and the crop is sown or planted at once. In my 
experience, the next best concentrated fertilizer is bone- 
dust, or flour of bone ; in experiments last season, with 
our crops of cauliflower and cabbage, we applied it in 
the same manner as guano, but at the rate of nearly 2000 
pounds per acre, and it gave most satisfactory results, sur- 
passing those of guano, where that had been used at the rate 
of 1200 pounds per acre. In applying manures to the 
soil, we have long ago discovered the great importance of 
an alternation of different kinds ; when I first began busi- 
ness as a market gardener, I had opportunities of getting 
large quantities of night soil from the scavengers of Jersey 
City ; this was mixed with stable manure, charcoal, saw- 
dust, or any other absorbent most convenient, and applied 
so mixed at the rate of about 30 tons per acre. The 
orops raised with this manure were enormous, for two or 



MANURES. 



37 



three years, but it gradually began to lose effect, and in 
five years from the time we began to use it, it required 
nearly double the weight of this compost to produce even 
an average crop. I then abandoned the use of night soil 
and applied refuse hops instead, at the rate of about 60 
tons per acre, with marked improvement ; but this was 
for the first and second years only, the third year showing 
a falling off. About this time our prejudices against the 
use of concentrated manures for market gardening began 
to give way, and at first we applied guano together with 
manure at the rate of 300 pounds per acre, which we 
found to pay ; and the next season, guano was used at the 
rate of 1200 lbs. per acre, with very satisfactory results. 
Since then, our practice has been a systematic alternation 
of manures, which I am convinced is of quite as much 
importance to the production of uniform crops of first 
quality, as is the alternation of varieties of the different 
kinds of vegetables. 

It is a grave blunder to attempt to grow vegetable 
crops, without the use of manures of the various kinds in 
about the proportions I have named. I never yet saw soil 
of any kind that had borne a crop of vegetables that 
would produce as good a crop the next season without the 
use of manure, no matter how " rich " the soil may be 
thought to be. An illustration of this came under my 
observation last season. One of my neighbors, a market 
gardener of nearly twenty years' experience, and whose 
grounds have always been a perfect model of productive- 
ness, had it in prospect to run a sixty-foot street through 
his grounds ; thinking his land sufficiently rich to carry 
through a crop of Cabbages, without manure, he thought 



38 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

it useless to waste money by using guano on that portion 
on which the street was to be, but on each side sowed 
guano at the rate of 1200 pounds per acre, and planted 
the whole with Early Cabbages. The effect was the most 
marked I ever saw; that portion on which the guano had 
been used sold off readily at $12 per hundred, or about 
$1400 per acre, both price and crop being more than an 
average ; but the portion from which the guano had beeD 
withheld, hardly averaged $3 per 100. The street occu- 
pied fully an acre of ground, so that my friend actually lost 
over $1000 in crop, by withholding $60 for manure. An- 
other neighbor, whose lease had only one year to run, and 
who also unwisely concluded that it would be foolish to 
waste manure on his last crop, planted and sowed all with- 
out it ; the result was, as his experience should have taught 
him, a crop of inferior quality in every article grown, and 
loss on his eight acres of probably $2000 for that season. 






CHAPTER VIII 

IMPLEMENTS. 



The most important implements in use in the vegetable 
garden are the plow and harrow, which should be always 
used, to the exclusion of the spade or digging fork, when- 
ever it is practicable to do so. No digging, in the ordi- 




Fig. 5.— ALLEN'S CYLINDER PLOW. 

nary way, can pulverize the soil so thoroughly as can be 
done by the plow and harrow, nor no trenching much sur- 
pass in its results that done by thorough subsoiling. Fig. 
5 represents the plow in use by the market gardeners, and 
known as Allen's Patent Cylinder Plow. So superior are 
its pulverizing powers to those of the spade, that we know 
of no market gardener who would allow his grounds to 
be dug, even if it were done free of cost. 
39 



40 



GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 



Miner's Gold Medal Subsoil Plow (fig. 6) is the best 
subsoil plow we know of. It involves new principles and 
accomplishes the work of stirring, loosening, aerating, and 




Fig. 6.— SUBSOIL, PLOY/. 

draining the soil beneath the furrow of the common plow, 
lifting and breaking (but not turning) the subsoil to the 
depth of 15 to 20 inches, as may be desired. On very stiff 
soils we use the subsoiler once in two years ; on lighter 
soils not so often, although if time would always permit 
there is no doubt but that it would be beneficial to use it 
whenever plowing is done. 

The harrow in use is rather peculiar in style, but is best 

suited for garden work ; 
it contains some forty 
teeth about 10 inches 
long; these are driven 
through the wood-work, 
leaving 5 or 6 inches 

Fig 1 . 7.— GARDEN HARROW. r> ±t i it 

of the sharpened end 
on the one side and from 14- to 2 inches of the blunt end 
on the other, as shown in fig. 7. After the ground has 




IMPLEMENTS. 



41 




been thoroughly pulverized by the teeth of the harrow, it 
is turned upside down, and " backed," as we term it ; the 
short blunt teeth further breaking up the soil and smooth- 
ing it to a proper condition to receive the seeds or plants. 
But there are many spots in the gap 
3 den that it is impracticable to plow, 
such as our frames, borders, and oc- 
casionally between rows where the 
space is too narrow 
for a horse to walk ; 
such places must 
be dug, and here 
we use the Dig- 
ging Fork, repre- 
sented by fig. 8, in 
preference to the 
spade. Its prongs 
enter the soil more 
easily than the 
blade of the spade, 
Fig. 8.—: digging fork, and by striking the 
soil turned over, with the back of the 
fork, it pulverizes it better than can 
be done by the blade of the spade. 
Still there are many operations in the 
garden, such as the digging up of 
roots, earthing up of Celery, etc., for which the spade is 
indispensable. For such purposes, the one represented 
by fig. 9, and known as " Ames' No. 2, Plain-back," we 
find the best. 





Fig. 9.— ames' No. 2 

SPADE. 



42 



GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 



For stirring between narrow rows of Cabbage, Celery, 
etc., we use a small one-horse plow before using the culti- 
vator; this is represented by fig. 10, and is known as the 
Skeleton Plow. Following this is our main implement 




SKELETON PLOW. 



for cultivating between rows, which is simply a triangu- 
lar adjustable Harrow, represented by fig. 11. This 
implement we prefer to any variety of cultivators we 
have ever used, on ground where there are no weeds, 

(and weeds are rarely al- 
lowed to grow in our 
market gardens), as its 
teeth sink from three to 
four inches deep if kept 
sharpened ; when extra 
Fi»-. 11.— cultivator. depth is wanted, a weight 

is put on to sink it deeper.. In all hoeing operations by 
hand, the steel pronged Hoe, fig. 12, is used in prefer- 
ence to the old-fashioned blade hoe; yet, superior as 
this implement is to the blade hoe, it is not more than 




IMPLEMENTS. 



43 




six years ago since it came into general use. A man can 

do full one-third more work with it, 

do it better, and with greater ease, 

than with the blade hoe ; true, it is 

not so good in cutting over weeds, 

but weeds should never be seen in 

a garden, for whether for pleasure or 

profit, it is short-sighted economy to 

delay the destruction of weeds until 

they start to grow. One man will hoe 

over, in one day, more ground where Fi °- 12.— pronged hoe. 

the weeds are just breaking 
through, than six will, if they 
be allowed to grow six or eight 
inches in hight, to say noth- 
ing of the injury done to the 
ground by feeding the weeds in- 
stead of the planted crops. An- 
other benefit of this early extir- 
pation of weeds is, that taken 
in this stage, they of course nev- 
er seed, and in a few years they 
are almost entirely destroyed, 
making the clearing a much sim- 
pler task each succeeding year. 
Another tool used in place of 
the hoe, is the steel Rake, fig. 13, 
which we use in various sizes, 
Fig. 13.— steel rake. from 8 inches to 20 inches in 

width. Nearly all our first " hoeing " is done with these ; 

that is, the ground is raked over and levelled in from two 




44 



GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 



to three days after planting ; this destroys the germs of the 
weeds ; in from five to ten days, according to the state of 
the weather, the ground is again gone 
over with the rakes. We are no believ- 
ers in deep hoeing on newly planted or 
sown crops, it is only when plants begin 
to grow that deep hoeing is beneficial. 
For using between narrow rows of 
crops, just starting from the ground, 
the push or Scuffle Hoe, (fig. 14), is a 
most effective tool ; we use them from 6 
to 12 inches wide; they require to be 
always about 3 inches narrower than 
the rows ; thus, in rows 9 inches apart, 
we use the 6-inch hoe. 

The Clod Crusher, fig. 15, an imple- 
ment much used in England, is of great 
value in pulverizing the surface of 

rough heavy soils, following after the 
Pig. 14.— SCUFFLE 

hoe. harrow; on light soils, that pulverize 

sufficiently with the harrow, it is not necessary. 





IMPLEMENTS. 



45 




Another indispensable implement is the Roller, fig. 16 ; 
it is of great importance not only in breaking lumpy soil, 
but in firming it properly around newly sown seeds, be- 
sides, the ground leveled by the roller is much easier hoed 
than if the surface were uneven or irregular. The roller 

we use is made of hard 
wood, and is 5 or 6 feet 
long, and 9 inches in diam- 
eter. The roller is bored 
though its whole length, 
and through this hole is put 
a bar of 2-inch round iron. 
Kg. 16.— garden roller. This bar gives the neces- 

sary weight, and its projecting ends afford points to 
which to attach the handle. 

The Double Marker, fig. 17, is used to mark 6 or 8 lines 
at once, as may be required ; the spaces between the teeth 
being 12 inches on one 
side, and 9 inches on 
the other. Where rows 
are required only of 
these widths, every row 
is of course planted^ 
but many of our crops re. 
quire wider rows, thus, 
with the 12-inch marker, we plant our early Cabbages at 
24 inches apart, the intervening rows being planted with 
Lettuce at the same time ; or with the narrow side of 
the marker, every row, 9 inches apart, is planted with 
Onion sets, or in such a crop as Beets, every alternate 
row only is used, making the rows 18 inches apart. The 




Fig. 17. — DOUBLE MARKER. 



46 



GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 



manner of using the marker will readily suggest itself. 
A line being stretched tightly to the required length, the 
outer tooth is set against it and steadily drawn to the end, 
returning, the outer row forms the guide for the marker, 
and so on until finished. The marker is usually a home- 
made implement, of wood, but it answers rather better to 
have the teeth made of iron, scooped, something like a 
common' garden trowel. 

The "Market Wagon (figure 18) is made after various 
patterns in different sections of the country ; that shown 




Fig. 18.— MARKET WAGON. 

in the cut is the kind used by us, and is usually drawn 
by one horse, it is strongly made, weighing about 1400 
pounds, and is capable of carrying from 2000 to 3000 
pounds. 

The Seed Drill, fig. 19, next page, is used in sowing large 
field crops of Onions, Carrots, Turnips, etc., and can be 
adjusted to suit all sizes of seeds. It is, however, more 
an implement of the farm than the garden, and rarely 
used in small market gardens, most cultivators deem, 
ing it safer to sow by hand. Sowing by hand requires 
more than twice the quantity of seed than when sown by 
the drill, but the crops of our market gardens are too im- 
portant to run any risk from such small considerations of 



IMPLEMENTS. 47 

economy. The greater risk in thinly sown crops being 
from destruction by insects, frost, or the thin sowing not 




Fig. 19. — PLANET SEED DRILL, NO. 2. 

having strength enough to force through the soil in dry 
weather. 

The Dibber, fig. 20, is a very simple but indispensable 
tool. It is of importance to have it made in the 
manner represented here ; it can be formed from 
a crooked piece of any hard wood, and shod 
with a sharp iron point, which gives weight to 
it, besides it always keeps sharp. Dibbers are 
too often made from an old spade or shovel 
handle, when they are awkward and unhandy 
affairs. 

Fig. 20.— Planting is an operation that often requires 

dibber, the most rapid moyement to get a crop in at the 

proper time, and the best appliances in working are not to 

be disregarded. With a dibber of this style, an ex- 




48 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

perienced planter, with a boy to drop the plants, as we 
invariably practise, will plant from 6000 to 10,000 plants 
per day, according to the kind of plant or condition of 
the ground. I have on many occasions planted, in one 
day, three acres of Celery, holding about 90,000 plants, 
with ten men, each of whom had a boy, from ten to four- 
teen years of age, to drop the plants down before him. 
This plan of using boys is not generally adopted, but I 
nave repeatedly proved that, by thus dividing the labor, 
a boy and a man will do more planting than two men 
would if planting singly, and each carrying his own plants. 



CHAPTER IX. 

THE USES AND MANAGEMENT OF COLD 

FRAMES. 



We use cold frames for preserving Cauliflower, Cab- 
bage and Lettuce plants during the winter, and the for- 
warding of Lettuce and Cucumbers in spring and summer. 

To make the matter as clear as possible, we will suppose 
that the market gardener, having five or six acres of land, 
has provided himself with 100 of 3 * 6 feet sashes. The 
Cauliflower, Cabbage, or Lettuce plants, which they are 
intended to cover in winter, should be sown in the open 
garden from the 10th to the 20th of September, and when 
of sufficient size, which they will be in about a month from 
the time of sowing, they must be replanted in the boxes 
or frames, to be covered by the sashes as winter advances. 

The boxes or frames we use, are simply two boards, run- 
ning parallel, and nailed to posts to secure them in line. 
The one for the back is ten or twelve inches wide, and 
that for the front seven or eight inches, to give the sashes, 
when placed upon them, pitch enough to carry off rain, 

and to better catch the sun's rays. The length of the 
49 



50 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

frame or box may be regulated by the position in which 
it is placed ; a convenient length is fifty or sixty ftet, re- 
quiring eighteen or twenty sashes. 

Shelter from the north-west is of great importance, and 
if the ground is not sheltered naturally, a board fence six 
feet in hight is almost indispensable. The sashes should 
face south or south-east. Each sash will hold five hundred 
plants of Cabbage or Cauliflower, and about eight hun 
dred of Lettuce. These numbers will determine the propel 
distance apart, for those who have not had experience. 
It should never be lost sight of, that these plants are al- 
most hardy, and consequently will stand severe freezing 
without injury ; but to insure this condition they must be 
treated as their nature demands; that is, that in cow 
weather, and even in clear winter days, when the thermom- 
eter marks 15 or 20 degrees in the shade, they must be 
abundantly aired, either by tilting up the sash at the back, 
or better still, when the day is mild, by stripping the sash 
clear off. By this hardening process, there is no necessity 
for any other covering but the sash. In our locality, we 
occasionally have the thermometer from 5° to 10° below 
zero for a day or two together, yet in all our time we have 
never used mats, shutters, or any covering except the 
glass, and I do not think we lose more than two per cent, 
of our plants. Some may think that the raising of plants 
in this manner must involve considerable trouble, but when 
they are informed that the Cabbage and Lettuce plants so 
raised and planted out in March or April, not unfrequently 
bring a thousand dollars per acre before the middle of 
July, giving us time to follow up with Celery for a second 
crop, it will be seen that the practice is not unprofitable. 



USES AND MANAGEMENT OP COLD FRAMES. 51 

But we have not yet done with the use of the sashes ; 
to make them still available, spare boxes or frames must 
be made, in all respects similar to those in use for the Cab- 
bage plants. These frames should be covered up during 
winter with straw or leaves in depth sufficient to keep the 
ground from freezing, so that they may be got at and bo 
in condition to be planted with Lettuce by the end of Feb- 
ruary, or the first of March. By this time the weather 
is always mild enough to allow the sashes to be taken off 
from the Cabbage and Lettuce plants, and they are now 
transferred to the spare frames to cover and forward the 
Lettuce. Under each sash we plant fifty Lettuce plants, 
having the ground first well enriched by digging in about 
three inches of well rotted manure. The management of 
the Lettuce for heading is in all respects similar to that 
used in preserving the plants in winter ; the only thing to 
be attended to, being to give abundance of air, and on the 
occasion of rain to remove the sashes entirely, so that the 
ground may receive a good soaking, which will tend tc 
promote a more rapid and luxuriant growth. 

The crop is fit for market in about six weeks from time 
of planting, which is always two or three weeks sooner 
than that from the open ground. The average price for 
all planted is about $4 per hundred at wholesale, so that 
again, with little trouble, our crop gives us $2 per sash in 
eix weeks. 

I believe this second use of the sash is not practiced 
outside of this district, most gardeners having the opinion 
that the winter plants of Cauliflower, Cabbage, or Lettuce, 
would be injured by their complete exposure to the 
weather at as early a date as the first of March. In fact. 



52 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

here we have still a few old fogies among us, whose timid- 
ity or obstinacy in this matter prevents them from making 
this use of their sashes, which thereby causes them an an- 
nual loss of $2 per sash, and as some of them have over a 
thousand sashes, the loss is of some magnitude. 

In my own practice, I have made my sashes do double 
duty in this way for fifteen years ; the number when I 
first started being fifty, increasing to the present time, 
when I have in use fifteen hundred sashes. Yet in all that 
time I have only once got my plants (so exposed) injured, 
and then only a limited number, which I had neglected to 
sufficiently harden by airing. 

We have still another use of the sashes to detail. Our 
Lettuce being cut out by middle of May, we then plant 
five or six seeds of the Improved White Spine Cucumber, 
in the centre of each sash. At that season they come up 
at once, protected by the covering at night. The sashes 
are left on until the middle of June, when the crop begins 
to be sold. The management of the Cucumber crop, as 
regards airing, is hardly different from that of the Lettuce, 
except in its early stage of growth it requires to be kept 
warmer ; being a tropical plant, it is very impatient of be- 
ing chilled, but in warm days airing should never be neg- 
lected, as the concentration of the sun's rays on the glass 
would raise the temperature to an extent to injure, if not 
entirely destroy the crop. This third use of the sashes I 
have never yet made so profitable as the second, although 
always sufficiently so to make it well worth the labor. 

There are a few men here who make a profitable busi« 
ness from the use of sashes only, having no ground except 
that occupied by the frames. In this way the winter crop 



USES AND MANAGEMENT OF COLD FRAMES. 53 

of Cauliflower or Cabbage plants is sold at an average^of 
$3 per sash, in March or April ; the Lettuce at $2 per sash 
in May, and the Cucumbers at $1 per sash in June, making 
an average of $6 per sash for the season ; and it must be 
remembered trhat these are wholesale prices, and that too, 
in the market of New York, where there is great compe- 
tition. There is no doubt, that in hundreds of cities and 
towns of the Union, the same use of sashes would double 
or treble these results. 

Cold frames are also used for sowing the seeds of Cab- 
bage, Cauliflower, and Lettuce, instead of hot-beds ; if 
the frames are closely shut up and covered at night by 
mats, the plants will be but little later than those from the 
hot-beds, and are raised with far less trouble. In sections 
of the country where these plants cannot be set out before 
May, it is useless to raise them in hot-beds. On the other 
hand, in the Southern States, where in the months of Feb- 
ruary and March there are no frosts, by adopting the same 
care in covering up at night, the seeds of Tomatoes, Pep- 
pers, and Egg plants, and the sprouts from Sweet Pota- 
toes, can be forwarded with much less trouble in the cold 
frames than in the hot-bed. 

I am sometimes asked the question, " How much freezing 
and thawing plants of Lettuce, Cabbages, etc., will stand 
without being destroyed." I have always taken the 
ground that the freezing and thawing, instead of being 
injurious, is a necessity for their safety. In doing so .1 
know I run in direct opposition to a large majority of my 
brethren, but the experience of nearly a quarter of a cen- 
tury, yearly increasing in extent, confirms me that I am 
correct, and I am further assured in my opinion by know- 



54 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

ing that there is not a market gardener in this vicinity but 
whose practice in the management of cold-frames is the 
same as my own, though if the question was asked some 
of them if thawing and freezing did not injure plants, the 
answer might be in the affirmative, so universally has the 
dogma been accepted. 

Again : " How long can frozen plants be kept from the 
light under shutters ? " — Much would depend on atmos- 
pheric conditions. If the temperature ranged at night 
from 25° to 32° — merely sufficient to mildly freeze the 
plants — they might remain in good condition for four or 
five weeks, but if subjected to a zero atmosphere, without 
change, as many days might prove injurious. A very 
common practice with cold-frames in this vicinity is, if the 
plants are frozen in the frames previous to a snow storm 
we allow them to be covered up by the snow often for two 
or three weeks, provided that it is deep enough to protect 
the plants from severe frosts, as in that condition the 
plants, though excluded from light, are subjected only to 
a temperature of from probably 25° to 32°, which simply 
keeps them dormant. But if, on the other hand, the 
plants are not frozen when snow covers the glass, it 
becomes necessary to remove the snow in three or four 
days after falling, else the plants will become blanched, 
and made so tender that they will be unable to resist severe 
weather that may follow. 



CHAPTER X. 

FORMATION AND MANAGEMENT OF 
HOT-BEDS. 



Although we do not consider hot-beds so convenient or 
even economical in the long run as the forcing houses, 
elsewhere described, yet, as beginners in the business are 
usually not over-supplied with means, and as hot-beds are 
to be had at much less first cost than the forcing houses, 
we give a description of their formation and management. 
The most convenient sash for the hot-bed is the 3x6 foot 
sash, made out of 1-J- inch pine, costing here, at present 
prices, when painted and glazed, about $4 each. This is 
almost double the cost of what they were before the reig» 
of high prices ; but as we get corresponding rates for the 
commodities raised under them, we must not complain. 

The frame for the hot-bed is usually made movable, in 
lengths which three sashes will cover, making, when com- 
plete, a box-like structure, 9 feet long, (the width of 3 
ashes, 3 feet wide), and 6 feet wide, (the length of the 
sashes) ; at the bottom or lower part, the plank should be 
15 or 18 inches high ; the back or top, 24 inches ; so that, 

55 



56 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

when the sashes are placed on, it will give them the neces- 
sary angle to receive the sun's rays and throw off the rain. 
The sashes should be made as tight fitting as they will 
easily work, and the plank, forming the sides of the box, 
should be high enough to cover the thickness of the sash, 
n order to prevent the cold air from penetrating. This ia 
one style of hot-bed frame, and the one most commonly 
used in private gardens; but in our market gardens, 
where a large surface is used, our necessities compel us to 
adopt a far more economical mode, both in the cost of the 
frame work and heating material. This is done somewhat 
after the manner adopted for Cold Frames. Parallel ex- 
cavations are made, usually in lengths of 60 feet, 2-J- feet 
deep, and 6 feet wide ; the sides of these pits are boarded 
up with any rough boarding, nailed to posts, and raised 
above the surface 18 inches at the back, and 12 inches at 
front. Strips are stretched across, on which the sashes 
rest, wide enough to receive the edges of the two sashes 
where they meet, and allow of a piece of about an inch 
between them, so that the sash can be shoved backward 
and forward, and be kept in place in giving air, etc. 

The heating material is next in order ; this should be 
horse dung, fresh from the stables, added to which, when 
accessible, about one-half its bulk of leaves from the 
woods. The manure and leaves should be well mixed and 
trodden down in successive layers, forming a conical heap, 
large enough to generate fermentation in severe winter 
weather. Care' must be taken that the material is not al- 
lowed to lie scattered and get frozen, else great delay will 
ensue before heat can be generated. A few days after the 
pile has been thrown together, and a lively fermentation 



FORMATION AND MANAGEMENT OF HOT-BEDS. 57 

has taken place, which will be indicated by the escape of 
steam from the heap, it should be again turned over and 
carefully shakeu out, formed again into a pile, and left un- 
til the second fermentation occurs, which will be usually 
in two or three days. It may now be placed in the pit, 
being regularly beaten down by the back of the fork, and 
trodden so that it is uniformly of the same solidity, and to 
the required depth, 2\ feet. The sashes are now placed 
on the frames, and kept close until the heat rises ; at this 
time a thermometer, plunged in the heating material, 
should indicate about 100 degrees, but this is too hot for 
almost any vegetable growth, and besides the rank steam 
given out by the fermentation, should be allowed to escape 
before operations of sowing or planting begin. New be- 
ginners are very apt to be impatient in the matter of hot- 
beds, and often lose the first crop by planting or sowing 
before the violent heat has subsided, which it generally 
will do in about three days, if the heating material has been 
sufficiently prepared. As soon as the thermometer in the 
frame recedes to 90, soil should be placed on, to the depth 
of 6 or 8 inches. This soil must be previously prepared, 
of one-third well rotted manure, (or, if procurable, rotted 
refuse hops, from breweries), and two-thirds good loam, 
spread regularly over the surface of the hot-bed. 

We use hot-beds for various purposes. One of the 
most important uses is the forcing of Lettuce ; this ia 
planted in the hot-beds, (from plants grown in the cold 
frames), 50 under each sash, the first crop by 2nd week in 
January ; it is covered at night by straw mats, and is usu- 
ally marketable by the first of March. At that season Let* 
tuce is always scarce, and will average, if properly grown, 



58 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

$8 per 100, or $4 per sash. The crop is cut out by the 
first week in March, giving plenty time to plant the same 
hot-bed again with Lettuce ; but now it is no longer a hot- 
bed, for by this time the heat from the dung is exhausted, 
and it is treated exactly as described in the chapter on 
Cold Frames. 

Another use for the hot-bed is the raising of Tomato, 
and Egg, and Pepper plants. The bed should be prepared 
for these, not sooner than the 2nd week in March, and of 
temperature, about the same as before described. In sow- 
ing, it is well to cover the seed with some very light 
mold ; nothing is better than leaf mold and sand, pat- 
ting it gently with the back of the spade. From the time 




Fig. 21.— WATERING POT. 

the seed is sown, attention to airing, during the hot part 
of the day, and covering up at night, is essential, and also 
that the soil be never allowed to get dry. The watering 
should be done with a very fine rose Watering Pot, (fig. 
21), and with tepid water. The temperature at night may 
range from 55 to 65°, and during the day from 70 to 80°. 
As soon as the seedling plants are an inch or two high, 
which will be in 5 or 6 weeks, they must be taken up and 
re-planted in a more extensive hot-bed, for they now re- 
quire room. Tomatoes should be planted of a width to 
give 75 or 100 in each sash. Pepper and Egg Plants do 



FORMATION AND MANAGEMENT OF HOT-BEDS. 59 

better if planted in small flower pots, (3-inch), as they are 
more difficult to transplant ; they may now also be kept 
a little closer in the hot-bed than the Tomatoes, as they 
require more heat. After transplanting, great care is nec- 
essary that they always be immediately watered, and 
shaded from the sun until they have struck root, which 
will be in 2 or 3 days after transplanting. 

The hot-bed is also the medium for procuring us Cab- 
bage, Cauliflower, and Lettuce plants, for early outside 
planting, when not convenient to winter them over 
as described in the uses of cold frames. The seeds of 
these are sown about the last week in February, are treated 
in all respects, as regards covering up at night, as the To- 
matoes, etc. ; but being plants of greater hardiness, re- 
quire more air during the day. They will be fit to plant 
in the open garden by the middle of April. The beds 
they are taken from are usually employed for the re-plant- 
ing Tomatoes, which it is not safe to plant, in the open 
ground here, before the middle of May. 

Sweet Potato plants are almost universally raised in hot- 
beds, but as this is a plant that luxuriates in a high tem- 
perature, the hot-bed should not be formed to start them 
until the middle of April. The soil should be a mixture of 
sand and leaf mold, laid on of the usual thickness on the 
hot-bed, 6 inches. The tubers are placed closely together 
and the same sandy compost sifted over them to the depth 
©f two inches ; some split the large ones lengthwise, and 
place them flat side down ; they should not be watered 
until they start to grow. They are fit to plant out about 
six weeks after starting. 

Two most essential points in working hot-beds are, in 



60 GARDENING* FOE PEOFIT. 

covering up at night, and in giving air during the day. 
It often happens that a few mild nights in March or April 
delude us into the belief that all the cold weather is over, 
and the covering up is in consequence either carelessly- 
performed or abandoned. Every season shows us scores 
of victims to this mistake, who, by one cold night, lose 
the whole labors of the season. It is always safest to 
cover up tender plants, such as Tomatoes, Sweet Pota- 
toes, etc., until the 10th of May in this latitude, and the 
more hardy plants, such as Cabbage, to the 1st of April, 
when raised in hot-beds ; even if there is no danger from 
freezing, it will give a more uniform temperature, and con- 
sequently conduce to a more healthy growth. The want 
of close attention in airing is equally dangerous ; often an 
hour's delav in raisin or the sashes, will have the effect of 
scorching up the whole contents of the hot-bed, and ir- 
regularity of airing will always produce c< drawn " and 
spindling plants, even when they are not entirely killed. 
The thermometer is the only safe guide, and should be 
regularly consulted, and whenever it indicates 75°, it is safe 
to admit less or more of the outer air, proportioned of 
course to the condition of the atmosphere ; if there be 
bright sunshine, and cold wind, very little will suffice; if 
calm, mild, and sunny, admit larger quantities. 

Coveeengs foe Peotection against Feost. — To cover 
up hot-bed sashes, we use either light pine shutters or 
straw mats ; the shutters are made the exact size of the 
sash ; there is no necessity of their being more than half 
an inch in thickness, as that is quite as effective in keeping 
out the cold as two inches would be, and they are much 
cheaper and more convenient to handle. Straw Mats are, 



FORMATION AND MANAGEMENT OF HOT-BEDS. 61 

however, by far the warmest covering, and in hot-bed cul- 
ture are almost indispensable. They are always made at 
home, during wet days or stormy weather in whiter. The 
manner of making them is very simple, and will readily 
be learned at the first attempt. The "uprights," (or 
warps), are formed of five strands of a tarred string, 
known as " marline ; " these are tightly strained 10 inches 
apart, by being attached to five strong nails at bottom of 
a wall, corresponding with the same number 7 feet from 
the bottom. Against these strings (beginning at the bot- 
tom) are laid small handfuls of rye straw, the cut side 



Fig. 22. — MAKING A STHAW MAT. 

out, as long and straight as can be procured ; this is se- 
cured to the uprights by a lighter kind of tarred string, 
by taking a single turn around the upright and the straw, 
and so continued until the mat is finished. Some use a 
frame to which the strings, forming the warp, are attach- 
ed, as shown in fig. 22. This alloAvs the operator to have 
his work upright or horizontal, as may be most convenient. 
Two workmen will make about five mats in a day. 



62 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

When finished, the mats should be 7 feet in length and 
4 1 feet in width, two being sufficient to cover three sash- 
es. The reason for having them made one foot longer 
than the sash is, that there may be 6 inches to overlap at 
top and bottom, which are the most necessary points to 
secure from frost. In making these mats they may be 
constructed of sedge from the marshes, or salt meadow 
hay, when rye straw cannot be procured. It is important, 
however, that they may be made as light as possible, one 
inch in thickness being quite sufficient. By care in hand* 
ling them, these mats will last for six or eight years. 



CHAPTER XI. 

FORCING PITS OR GREEN-HOUSES. 



Forcing pits and green-houses of the style about to be 
described, whenever the greater expense in their erection 
is not a consideration, are, in our experience, far superior, 
and in the course of five or six years, more economical for 
all purposes of forcing or forwarding vegetables, than the 
hot-bed or cold frame. Figure 23 represents the end sec- 
tion and ground plan of the style we have in use, and 
which may be adapted to any plant that requires artificial 
heat and protection of glass.- The pits, represented by 
this plan, are 100 feet in length, and each 11 feet wide in- 
side. The heating is accomplished by one of Hitching's 
Patent Boilers, ( (7), heating about 1200 feet of 4-inch pipe. 
The glass roof, (i?), is formed of portable sashes, 6x3 feet ; 
each alternate sash is screwed down, the others being 
movable, so as to give abundance of air. The fixed roof 
plan of building green-houses or pits, is, in our climate, a 
great mistake, in my opinion, unless in large graperies 
or conservatories, where architectural beauty is of more 
consideration than the health of the plants. The mov« 

63 



04 



GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 




Fig. 23. — END SECTION AND GROUND PLAN OF FORCING PITS HEATED 

BY WATEK PIPES. 



FORCED PITS OR GREEN-HOUSES. 65 

able sash is elevated, to admit air, by an iron bar, 
15 inches long, attached to the sash by a staple ; in- 
to this bar is punched three holes, so to regulate the 
admission of the air as required. When the sash is 
shut down, the bar is hooked on to a pin which se ; 
cures it in place, so that the sash cannot be moved b} 
wind. I am thus particular in describing what may seem 
a simple matter ; but this system of airing is not common, 
and we made some stupid blunders before we hit on our 
present plan, which is cheap, simple, and very effective. 
The movable sash is not hinged at the bottom, but is held 
in place by two small plates of iron screwed on the gutter 
plate. The ridge-poles are cut out of the shape shown 
at e7, and the sashes lie on the shoulder. The interior 
arrangement of the pits will be easily understood by the 
end section. G, shows the bench or table as it is complet- 
ed; this shows the boxing-in of the pipes, (D), to give 
" bottom heat " to the cuttings, seeds, or plants, that are 
placed on the bench, but on the sides of the bench, along 
the walk, one plank is hinged throughout the house, so 
that it may be let down when required, and permit the es- 
cape of heat into the pit. The walks through the house, 
(j£T), are 2 feet wide. A brick shed, (A), covers the 
boiler pit, (F), and is attached to the north end of the 
pits. Besides breaking the wind at this vulnerable point, 
we find this shed a most excellent place for many purposes, 
as it is kept from freezing by the heat that escapes from 
the boiler pit, which would otherwise be lost. This heat 
may be rendered, to a very profitable account in forcing 
Mushrooms or Rhubarb, if desired for that purpose. 
The system of attaching three pits together, if not new 



GO 



GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 



m this country, is certainly new in its almost universal adop- 
tion by commercial gardeners, in all houses erected dur- 
ing the past five years in the neighborhood of New York ; 
it has great advantages over the detached system, be- 
ing less exj^ensive in heating, more saving of space, and, 
above all, far more economical in cost of construction. 
I prefer having only three together, for the reason that, 
when we have the snow to clear away, it is quickly done by 

being shoveled from the 
two valleys or furrows 
over the ridges ; although 
we have one grower in 
this neighborhood who 
has 12 connected houses, 
and finds but little trouble 
with snow; our snows 
being mostly from the 
North, the shed breaks 
them off in a great meas- 
ure, and what blows over, 
blows mostly off through 
the valley between the 
sashes. The water from 
the gutter is led into a 
cistern, at the south end 
of the green-houses, of a 




Fig. 21.— west's force pump. 



capacity of not less than 3000 cubic feet, if 5000, all the bet- 
ter ; to this is connected a West's Force Pump, fig. 24, with 
150 feet of l^-inch hose, and to the end of the hose is attach- 
ed a heavy sprinkler. One man pumps, and another regu- 
lates the water and sprinkles it over the plants. My estab- 



FORCING PITS OR GREEN-HOUSES. 67 

lishment in 1866 contained over an acre of glass, and yet, 
by this labor-saving arrangement, all the plants were 
thoroughly drenched with water by two men in four 
hours. Before adopting this method of watering, at least 
four of the hands were employed the whole day dur- 
ng the spring months in watering, and then the work 
was not done half so well. There is nothing that I have 
ever done connected with horticultural operations, that 
has been so entirely satisfactory as this system of watering. 
In these pits may be propagated and grown Grape 
Vines, Roses, and green-house and bedding plants of every 
description, in the best possible manner. But as our pres- 
ent purpose is only with vegetables, I will endeavor to de- 
scribe our mode of operations with some of these. As 
Lettuce, from the great quantities consumed in all large 
cities, is now, and will be likely to be, one of the most 
profitable vegetables to force, we begin, for our first crop, 
by sowing the seed about the first of September, in the 
open ground, of the Tennis Ball, or Black-seeded Butter 
sorts. These are planted on the benches of the forcing 
house in five or six weeks after, at about six or eight 
inches apart each way, on well enriched soil, placed on the 
benches to the depth of five or six inches. At this season, 
no " forcing " is required, in fact, if the sashes could be 
taken completely off until the middle of November, so 
much the better, but when it is not convenient, the sashea 
should be kept raised to admit air, night and day, until 
frosts begin to be severe ; then they should be shut up at 
night, but no fire heat should be applied until the weather 
has been severe enough to indicate 32 or 34 inside the pits, 
and even then very slight, for if thev can be brought to 



63 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

maturity at this season without the temperature exceed- 
ing forty degrees at night (by fire heat), the crop will 
be all the better. The great thing in forcing all plants of 
this hardy nature being to avoid a high temperature. 

Of late years Lettuce plants, when grown under glass, 
have occasionally become affected by a species of mildew 
or rust which, beginning in the centre of the plant quickly 
spreads over the whole and destroys it. I am not certain 
of the cause, and can offer no cure — except to advise that 
great care should be taken to have the plants grown freely, 
and without any sudden check by chilling or by the 
extremes of drought or moisture. We find in the culture 
of plants under glass, that some species are particularly 
sensitive to such checks — some varieties of the Rose, for 
instance, if, when in a particular condition of growth, the 
temperature for a few hours is reduced from 05° to 40°, at 
night, or if a frosty south-east wind is allowed to play on 
the leaves for even ten minutes, or if allowed to dry so 
that the plant wilts, mildew will to a certainty be developed 
in twenty-four hours. The Verbena, Heliotrope, and 
Petunia, when subjected to ill usage, become badly rusted. 
Therefore I am inclined to think that the Lettuce disease 
is also caused by some ill usage at some period of its 
growth, for we find that it is rarely seen when the crop is 
grown in the open ground in spring or summer. The 
preventive suggested is that plants to be forced should be 
prepared so carefully that no sudden check is given — and 
also that the soil used on the benches be fresh, and the 
manure used be thoroughly rotted and well mixed through 
the soil. Fumigating with tobacco should also be done 
twice each week, beginning the very day the plants are 



FORCING PITS OR GREEN-HOUSES. 69 

planted in the bench. In fumigating we use refuse tobacco 
stems, about 2 pounds (dry) for every 1,000 square feet of 
glass, damping however before using, so as to get the 
greatest amount of smoke. 

The first crop is ready about December 15th and is cut 
off and sold in two weeks; the soil on the benches is 
slightly manured, dug up, and again planted (from plants 
sown in cold frames, or in boxes in the same pit) about No- 
vember 1st. This second, or winter crop, requires more 
attention in growing, both in firing, watering, and airing, 
as it matures about March 1st, and consequently has had 
to be cared for during the coldest part of the year. The 
third crop, treated exactly as the second, is planted soon 
as the other is cut off, and matures about May 1st. We 
now vary the use of the pit, by planting at distances of 
about three feet apart along the centre of the bench, 
plants of the White Spine Cucumber, from seed sown 
about April first, in a corner of the pit that has been 
kept closer and warmer than that for the Lettuce ; these 
are planted in pots about 3 inches in diameter, and by the 
time the benches are cleared in May, are fine strong plants, 
that gives a full crop during the month of June — fully a 
month sooner than from the open ground. The combined 
value of these four crops will average about $500, for an 
erection 100 feet in length by 11 feet in width. The esti 
mated expense of cultivation is: — 

Interest on $1000, cost of construction, at 10 per cent $100 

Coal, 5 tons 50 

Labor, Manure, etc 100 

$250 
Receipts 500 

Nett Profit $250 



7U GARDENING FO R PEOFIT. 

These forcing pits are likewise used for starting seeds 
of Tomato, Egg, Pepper, Cabbage, and Cauliflower, and 
sprouting Sweet Potatoes, which is done with far less risk 
and in a much better manner, than can be accomplished 
by the hot-bed. One great advantage is, that by being 
able to walk inside of them, these pits are accessible ia 
all weathers, while with the hot-bed or frames, we are in 
winter often debarred from examination for whole days 
together. 

At present prices, in this locality, these pits cost 
about $10 per lineal foot, everything complete put 
up in the way indicated by the plan in a plain sub- 
stantial manner. But those whose circumstances do 
not admit of the expense of heating by hot water, 
(which is nearly half the cost of the whole), may put up 
erections of exactly the same character, and heat them by 
the common smoke flue, at an expense of from five to 
six dollars per lineal foot, in the manner shown by the 
plan, fig. 25. It will be seen by this sketch, that two 
flues only are used for the three pits, each passing first up 
under the bench on the outside houses, is carried along 
the end and returned through the middle houses; this 
equalizes the temperature in all three, for the outside 
houses get only one run of the flue, but it being directly 
from the fire, gives about the same heat to the outside 
houses as two runs in the middle house, which being at a 
greater distance from the fire, are much colder. Three 
attached houses, heated thus, should not be over 50 feet 
long, in this latitude. Southward they may be 60 feet, 
and northward 40 feet. Peculiarities of locality have 
much to do with the heating ; in positions particularly 



FORCING PITS OR GREEN-HOUSES. 



71 





Fig. 25. — END SECTION AND GROUND PLAN OF FORCING PITS 
HEATED BY FLUE. 



72 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

Bheltered from the northwest, the same amount of flue 
will heat 60 feet, quite as easily as in exposed places it 
will heat 40. The proper way of constructing the furnace 
and flue, is of importance enough to require a description. 
The size of the furnace doors should not be less than 1 
foot square, the length of the furnace bars, 2 feet ; the 
furnace should be arched over, the top of inside of the arch 
at least 18 inches from the bars. The flue will always 
" draw " better if slightly on the ascent throughout its en- 
tire length ; it should be elevated, in all cases, from the 
ground, on flags or bricks, so that its heat may be given 
out on all sides. The inside measure of the flue should 
not be less than 8 x 14 inches ; if tiles can be conveniently 
procured, they are best to cover with, but if not, the top 
of the flue may be contracted to 6 inches, and covered 
with bricks. Care should be taken that no woodwork 
connect with the flue at any place. I have known cases 
where woodwork has caught fire at 70 feet from the fur- 
nace, after the house had been in operation for three years ; 
but an unusually strong draft intensified the heat,and the 
charred timber ignited and totally destroyed the green- 
house and its contents. In the plan and section on the 
opposite page, A, is the shed, enclosing the furnaces C C ; 
from which pass the flues, Z>, in the direction shown by 
the arrows to the chimnies, L. The benches are not 
Bhown here, but they are arranged as in fig. 23. 






CHAPTER XII. 

SEEDS AND SEED RAISING. 



If there is one thing of paramount importance in 
vegetable gardening, it is purity of seed ; and for this 
reason every seed that it is practicable for us to raise 
for our own use, we grow, no matter what the cost 
may be. On one occasion, our indispensable Wake- 
field Cabbage seed failed, from some peculiarity in the 
season, and there was no alternative but to buy from 
the seed stores ; every store in New York was tried, but 
not a seed proved to be of the Wakefield, as we know it. 
One old gentleman, who always provided for such emer- 
gencies, had a two-year old reserve supply. I offered him 
$50 per pound, but could not procure an ounce from him. 
He too well understood the state of the case, and planted 
his whole ground with this variety, and as he got in ahead 
of all by nearly ten days, made a little fortune by the 
operation. That was about ten years ago ; but I have 
never known a Jersey gardener to be out of this variety 
of seed since, and not know where to get it. On another 
occasion one pound ot seed, purchased as Silesia Lettuce, 
and planted in my forcing frames, proved to be the curled 



74 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

India Lettuce, useless, except for our hottest summer 
weather, and perfectly worthless for forcing. This was 
the most serious loss from bad seeds I ever encountered, 
amounting to at least $1000. Last year, quite a number 
of my neighbors lost heavily in purchasing seed of the 
erect variety of Thyme, instead of the spreading variety; 
the crop being all but worthless in consequence. No 
wonder then that the market gardeners are so skeptical 
about using seeds except those of their own raising, or 
from those of their immediate neighbors, in whose knowl- 
edge and honesty they have entire confidence. 

There is but little new to say of the manner of raising 
seeds ; the importance of selecting the purest specimens 
of each variety, and of keeping plants that are of the 
same families, as far distant apart as the limits of the 
ground will admit, is now well understood. It is not 
practicable, however, to raise all the seeds wanted in our 
vegetable gardens, in our climate, and consequently we 
have to rely on importation for seeds of Brocoli, Cauli- 
flower, some varieties of Cabbage, Radishes, Peas, etc. 
But the great majority of seeds used are raised here, our 
climate being particularly well adapted for maturing them. 
In the raising of market vegetables, near large cities, the 
usual practice is, for each grower to grow only a few vari- 
eties, and these of the sorts most profitable to his location or 
BoiL For example, we of New Jersey, in the immediate 
/icinity of New York, grow Beets, Cabbages, Cauliflow- 
er, Cucumbers, Lettuce, Radishes, and Turnips, as a first 
crop ; followed by Celery, Thyme, Sage, Brocoli, and late 
Cabbage, as a second crop. Of these varieties we save 
all the seeds that it is practicable for us to raise ; while 



SEEDS AND SEED RAISING. 75 , 

the more Southern counties of the State, where crops ma- 
ture ten or twelve days earlier,' but the distance greater 
from market, the bulkier and cheaper articles are not 
grown, and only the more portable and (when early) valu- 
able kinds are raised, of which Tomatoes, Melons, Peas, 
Kidney Beans, Early Turnips, and Beets, are the staple 
articles. There, also, the growers know well the necessity 
of sowing only such seeds as are grown by themselves, or 
from sources that they know to be reliable. 

Seed growing, as practised by market gardeners, is on 
much too small a scale to make it profitable ; in fact, there 
is hardly a seed we raise, but costs us much more than what 
we could purchase it for from the seedsmen. Seedsmen are 
supplied by regular seed growers, who make a special 
business of it ; they are located principally in the East- 
ern States, and devote many thousands of acres of the 
finest lands to the purpose. They are a highly responsi- 
ble class of men, who thoroughly understand the business, 
and are now successfully competing with the English and 
French growers, from whom, only a few years ago, nearly 
all our seeds were imported. Just so soon as our seeds- 
men are able to get their entire supply from reliable men 
here, there will be no necessity for the market gardeners 
continuing to be their own seed growers ; they would also 
greatly conduce to the increase of their business by taking 
the trouble to ascertain the varieties most suitable for 
market purposes. Above all, no seed should ever be sold 
without its germinating qualities being thoroughly tested. 
Neither should any gardener risk his crop without testing 
the seed, unless he has implicit confidence in the source 
from whence it has been purchased. 



76 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

It will be understood, that of all annual plants, such as 
Beans, Corn, Cucumbers, Egg Plants, Lettuce, Melons, 
Peas, Radishes, Tomatoes, etc., the seed is saved the sea- 
Bon of planting, and should be always taken from those 
first maturing, if earliness is an object. The seeds of bi- 
ennial vegetables, such as Beets, Carrots, Celery, Cab 
bages, Onions, Leeks, Parsley, Parsnips, etc., are raised by 
selecting the best specimens' from those preserved over 
winter, planting them out in good soil on the opening of 
spring, at distances such as are recommended for their 
growing. 

Duration of Germination in Seeds. — There are very 
few seeds that will not germinate as freely the second year 
as the first, if properly kept in a cool place, and not ex- 
posed to either a too drying or too damp an atmosphere. 
With the exception of Parsnips, Onions, and Leeks, I would 
just as confidently sow seed two years old 3 as when fresh 
gathered ; but there is a limit to the vitality of seeds, va- 
rying much in the different species. 

Among those, only safe for two years, are : Beans and 
Peas, of all kinds ; Peppers, Carrot, Egg Plant, Okra, 
Salsify, Thyme, Sage, and Rhubarb. 

Those safe for three years : Asparagus, Endive, Lettuce, 
Parsley, Spinach, and Radish. 

Those safe for four years : Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cab- 
bage, Celery, and Turnip. 

Those possessing the greatest vitality are: Beet, Cu- 
cumber, Melon, Pumpkin, Squash, and Tomato ; the time 
ranging from five to ten years. 

We often find this knowledge very valuable ; for exam- 
ple, in procuring the stock of a seed said to be good, of a 



SEEDS AND SEED RAISING. 77 

variety that does not seed the season it is marketable, 
such as Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cabbage, or Celery, we pro- 
cure enough to last at least two seasons ; the first season 
only a little is sown, to test the merit of the variety, (for 
we are never incautious enough to risk a full crop with one 
experiment); if it proves valuable, we have enough in re- 
serve to sow for a full crop, knowing that it is sure to 
germinate. This was particularly the case with our New 
Dwarf Celery ; on the recommendation of a friend I im- 
ported ten pounds of the seed, but doubtful of how it 
would suit our market, only as much was sown as would 
furnish a few hundred, plants. These showed so much 
superiority, in all respects, to the tall varieties that we had 
been growing, that the following season I put in half my 
crop with the dwarf seed. The thing was entirely new 
in our market, and so much superior, that it sold for prices 
that would seem incredible. My ten lb. bag was not half 
exhausted, and the next season I planted my whole crop, 
fourteen acres, containing nearly half a million roots, and 
made one of the best hits I ever made in gardening. But 
by this time my neighbors began to take an unusual in- 
terest in my Celery crop, and I could monopolize the va- 
riety no longer. 

A frequent source of complaint is the fact of seeds 
failing to germinate during long continued dry weather, 
.xnd it is very important that the gardener should always 
apply common-sense to his work, and not simply follow 
routine, for what wiK suit for one condition of soil or 
atmosphere, would be unnecessary or even wrong for 
another. I will give a case to illustrate. About the fifth 
of May of 1871, I sowed a large patch of open ground 



78 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

with Celery seed, and another with Cabbage seed. The 
soil was in fine order, and the beds after sowing, were 
raked; the Celery with a fine steel rake, the Cabbage with 
a large wooden rake, which covered the seed of each to 
the regular depth. The weather was dry, with indications 
of its continuing so, and after sowing I had both the Cab- 
bage and Celery beds rolled heavily, leaving, however, a 
strip of each unrolled, so that I could clearly show to 
some of my young men what the result of this omission 
would be if dry weather continued. Had a heavy rain 
fallen within a day or two after sowing, it would have 
compacted the soil and produced the effect of rolling it. 
But we had no rain for three or four weeks, and a burning- 
hot atmosphere, passing through the shallow, loose cover- 
ing of the seeds, shrivelled and dried them up so that it 
was impossible they could ever germinate. This little 
experiment resulted exactly as any one having experience 
in seed-sowing knew it must ; our crop of Celery and Cab- 
bage plants were as fine as need be on the rolled bed, 
while not one seed in a thousand of the Celery, and not 
one in a hundred of the Cabbage started in the strips 
when the soil was left loose. 

In the sowing of Cauliflower, Cabbage, or Lettuce in 
September, the same precaution had better be used. But 
in small beds, such as are usually taken for these, if a 
roller is not at hand, after raking the beds, the soil should 
be firmly patted with the back of the spade ; this not 
only produces quicker and more certain germination, but 
it. leaves the surface of the bed smooth, so that the plants 
come up straighter than if the beds were left rough. We 
consider the practice of soaking seeds worse than useless. 



CHAPTER XIIL 

HOW, WHEN, AND WHERE TO SOW SEED& 



As seed sowing is the starting point of cropping, a 
thorough knowledge of the conditions necessary for the 
germination of the different varieties, will go far towards 
putting the tyro in gardening well on the way to success. 
The very general want of knowledge in this matter is too 
often the cause of much undeserved censure upon the 
seedsman, for in nine cases out of ten the failure is not 
with the seeds, but results from the time or manner of 
planting. When the owner of a garden sends his order for 
seeds to the seedsman, it is generally a complete list of all 
he wants for the season. They are received, and the in- 
teresting operation of sowing is begun: first in a hot 
bed, if he has one, often as early as the first week in Feb 
ruary, (a month too soon by the way), and in go indis 
criminately, at the same date, and under the same sash 
his seeds of Cabbage, Cauliflower, Lettuce, and Egg Plant, 
Peppers and Tomatoes. Yet even in the waning heat of 
this early hot-bed, where a thermometer would possibly 
not indicate more than fifty degrees, he finds in a week or so 
79 



80 



GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 



his Cabbage, Lettuce, and Cauliflower "coming through" 
nicely, but as yet no Egg Plants, Peppers, or Tomatoes. He 
impatiently waits another week, makes an examination, and 
discovers that instead of his Tomatoes and Egg Plants be- 
ginning to vegetate, they are commencing to rot. It is now 
plain to him that he has been cheated ; he has been sold old 
seed, and if he does nothing worse, he for ever after looks 
upon the seedsman he has patronized as a venial wretch, 
destitute of principle and honesty. But he must have 
Tomatoes, Peppers, and Egg Plants, and. he buys again, 
from another seedsman, warranted honest. He renews his 
hot-bed, it is now a month later, and a bright March sun, 
with milder nights, gives him the proper temperature in 
his hot-bed — 70 or 80°, and. his eyes are at last gladdened 
by the sprouting of the troublesome seed. April comes 
with warm sunshine, inviting him to begin to " make gar- 
den " outside. He has yet the balance of the original lot of 
seeds that he bought in February. But as he is still entire- 
ly befogged about the cause of his failure in the first hot- 
bed, he begins his open ground operations with little confi- 
dence in his seeds, but as he has got them, they may as well 
be tried. And again he sows in the same day his Peas and 
Lima Beans, Radishes and Pumpkins, Onions and Sweet 
Corn. Hardy and tender get the same treatment. The re- 
sult must of necessity be the same as it was in the hot-bed ; 
the hardy seeds duly vegetate, while the tender are of course 
rotted. This time he is not surprised, for he is already 
convinced that seedsman No. 1 is a rascal, and only won- 
ders how any of his seeds grew at all, so he again orders 
from seedsman No. 2 for the articles that have failed. 
Here circumstances continue to favor the fitter, for by 



HOW, WHEN, AND WHERE TO SOW SEEDS. 81 

this time the season has advanced in its temperature and 
the seeds 'duly vegetate. Every farmer knows that, in 
this latitude, he can sow Oats or Wheat in March or April, 
but that if he sows his Corn or Pumpkins at the same time, 
they will perish ; this he knows, but he may not know 
that what is true of the crops of the farm, is equally true 
of the garden. Hence the importance of a knowledge of 
the season when to sow vegetable seeds, or set out plants. 

A decision was not long ago rendered in one of the 
Philadelphia courts against the claim for damages made 
by a market gardener, who brought suit against a well- 
known seedsman of that city for having sold him seed of 
Early York Cabbage that " run to seed." 

The ventilation of such a matter is exceedingly in- 
structive to those engaged in gardening operations, as 
w T as shown by the facts elicited on the trial, the gist of 
which was, that the prosecutor had sown the Cabbage 
seed on the 5th of September instead of the 15th, and that 
error, combined with an unusually mild and growing fall, 
practically lengthened the season, so that the Cabbage 
plants became " annuals " — running to seed within the 
year of sow r ing — rather than forming heads and acting 
as "biennials," as was expected of them. Now, just here 
an excellent lesson comes in with another vegetable. 
Most of our so-called scientific gardeners are English, 
Scotch, Irish, or Germans ; they come here, most of them, 
with a thorough contempt for our rougher style of doing 
things (a practical style born of our necessities in the 
higher cost of labor) ; and it is next to imoos^ible to con- 
vince one in a dozen of them, that there is anything in 
horticultural matters here, that he needs to be informed 



82 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

of. Accordingly, if he wishes to raise Celery, he starts 
his seed in a hot-bed in February, just as he would have 
done in England, and is astonished to find in July that 
instead of forming a thick and solid stalk, as it would 
have done there, it spindles and runs to seed. If his 
knowledge of the art had been based on common-sense, 
instead of the blind routine practice acquired in a colder 
climate, he would have known that our season — from April 
1st to July 1st — w T ould sum up nearly the same mean of 
temperature here as it would there, from February 1st to 
July 1st ; and hence it was not only unnecessary here, 
but dangerous to the welfare of the crop, to sow such 
biennial plants as Celery in any other place but in the 
open ground, and that not before April. It was just such 
an error that the market gardener made, who sued the 
seedsman above alluded to. He had been following 
likely in the English or German method, and paid the 
penalty not only of losing his crop, but losing his law- 
suit, by not adapting his practice to our conditions of 
temperature. As the matter of sowing the seeds of Cab- 
bage, Cauliflower, and Lettuce to make plants to winter 
over in cold-frames, is one in which there is a wide-spread 
interest, I may state that the time of sowing in fall, in a 
country having such a wide area and difference of latitude 
as ours, is somewhat difficult to fix upon; but taking the 
latitude of New York as a basis, the safest time we have 
found to sow is from the 10th to the 15th of September. 
Of late years we have inclined rather more to the latter 
date, and have even sown as late as September 30th, 
with excellent success, in warm, well-sheltered positions, 
in a rich, well-prepared soil. 



HOW, WHEN", AND WHEEE TO SOW SEEDS. 



83 



Each kind of seed has certain limits of temperature, be- 
low or above which it can not germinate. Below the 
minimum heat it remains dormant, above its maximum 
limit, its vitality is destroyed ; between these two points 
is found the temperature most favorable to rapid germina- 
tion. Practically it suffices to divide our garden seeds in 
two classes: natives of temperate and natives of sub- 
tropical countries. 

The temperature best fitted for the gej ruination of seeds 
of the leading kinds, will be best understood by the tabu- 
lar form given below. 



Vegetable seeds that may be sown, 
in this latitude, from the middle of 
March to the end of April. Ther- 
mometer in the shade averaging 45 
degrees. 



Beet. 


Lettuce. 


Carrot. 


Parsley. 


Cress. 


Parsnip. 


Celery. 


Onions. 


Cabbage. 


Peas. 


Cauliflower. 


Radish. 


Endive. 


Turnip. 


Kale. 


Spinach. 



Vegetable seeds that may be sown in 
the open ground, in this ldtitude,from 
the middle of May to the middle of 
June. TJiermometer in the shade av- 
eraging 60 degrees. 



Lima Beans. 

Bush Beans. 

Cranberrry 
Pole Beans. 

Scarlet Run- 
ner Beans. 

Sweet Corn. 

Musk Melon. 



Water Melon. 

Squash. 

Pumpkin. 

Tomato. 

Nasturtium. 

Okra. 

Cucumber. 



It will be understood that these dates refer only to the 
latitude of New York, farther South, operations should be 
begun earlier, — farther North, later. So much for the time 
of sowing ; I will now refer to suitable soil and the man 
ner of sowing. 

The Choice op Soil, when choice can be made, is of 
great importance, the best being a light soil, composed 
of leaf mold, sand, and loam; the next substitute for 
leaf mold being well decayed stable manure, or better 



g4 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

yet, decayed refuse hops from the breweries, in short, 
anything of this nature that will tend to lighten the 
soil, the point to be avoided being a weight of soil, 
either from the nature or quantity of it. The nature of 
the soil is not of so much importance for the germinating 
of large vigorous seeds, as Peas, Beets, Beans, Corn, etc. 
But with the delicate, slow sprouting sorts, as Celery. 
Parsnip, Egg Plant, or Peppers, it is of much importance 
Seeds of nearly every garden vegetable should be sown in 
rows ; the distance apart, according to the variety, and the 
depth proportioned to the size of the seed. No better infor 
mation can be given in this matter, than the old rule of 
covering the seed with about its thickness of soil, but thij 
should always be followed up by having the soil pressed 
closely down. In our market gardens here, we invariably 
have the ground rolled after sowing, or in frames or hot- 
beds, where the roller cannot be used, we pat the soil even- 
ly down with a spade after sowing. This may not be of 
so much consequence in early spring, when the atmosphere 
is moist, but as the season advances, it is of great im- 
portance. I have seen many acres of Carrots and Parsnips 
lost for want of this simple attention ; the covering of the 
seeds being loose, the heated air penetrates through, dry- 
ing the seeds to shriveling, so that they never can vege- 
tate. My farmer readers, no doubt, have had plenty of 
similar experiences with Turnips, where they have been 
sown broadcast without rolling. Another advantage in 
rolling after seed sowing is, that it leaves the surface 
smooth and level, thereby lessening greatly the labor of 
hoeing. Instead of adopting the questionable practice of 
steeping seeds, preparatory to sowing in dry hot weather, 



HOW, WHEN", AND WHERE TO SOW SEEDS. 85 

we prefer first to thoroughly saturate the bed with water, 
and after it has dried enough, so that it can be raked with- 
out clogging, sow the seed. It is much better to do this 
than water after the seed has been sown, as it has a ten- 
dency in most soils to bake the surface. 

Sowing in Hot-beds. — It would lengthen this chapter 
too much to give extended directions for sowing seeds in 
hot-beds. I will briefly say, that after the hot-bed has 
been formed — say by the first week in March, let soil, of 
the kind recommended, be placed on it six inches deep, in- 
to which plunge a thermometer three or four inches, and 
when the temperature recedes to 75 degrees or 80 degrees, 
you may then sow, giving air in mild weather as soon as 
the seeds begin to vegetate, covering up warmly at night 
by mats, straw, or hay. But many that may read this 
never saw a hot-bed, and are perhaps never likely to have 
one : to such I would say that there is an excellent substi- 
tute on hand in most dwellings, in the kitchen or base- 
ment windows, facing South or East, inside of which is a 
temperature usually not far from that required for the 
vegetation of seeds, and where plants from seeds of the 
early vegetables, or tender plants for the flower border, may 
be raised nearly as well, and with far less attention, than in 
a hot-bed. Instead of hot-beds, we use our green-houses 
for the purpose, usiug shallow boxes in which we sow the 
seed ; these are made from the common soap box, cut in 
three pieces, the top and bottom forming two, and the 
middle piece, bottomed, making the third ; these form 
cheap, convenient boxes. Fill these nearly full with the 
soil recommended, and after sowing, press nicely down 
level, and make the surface soil moderately firm ; keep 



86 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

moist, in a temperature in the window of from 60 to 70 
degrees, and your little trouble will soon be rewarded. 

In this way seeds should be sown thickly, and after they 
have made the first rough leaf, should be again planted 
out into the same kind of box, from one to four inches 
apart, according to the kind, and placed in the window to 
receive similar treatment as the seeds ; but as the season 
advances, in mild days they should be set out of doors, 
care being taken that they are brought in at night, and 
that the soil in the boxes is never allowed to get dry. 

I know what is usually the first thing the novice in gar- 
dening does if he gets any choice seed or favorite cutting ; 
lie has some how got the belief that there is some hidden 
virtue in a flower pot, and he accordingly sows his seed 
or plants his cutting in a pot, but in nine cases out of ten 
they are destroyed, or partially so, by the continued dry- 
ing of the soil in the porous flower pot. If early in the 
season, let delicate seeds be sown in the kitchen or sitting 
room window, in the boxes as recommended, or if late, in 
the open border ; but seeds should never be sown in pots, 
as even in experienced hands they are much more trouble- 
some and uncertain than boxes. 

Rotation of Crops. — Cultivators of the most limited 
experience soon discover that the same kind of crop can- 
not be grown on the same ground for many years in suc- 
cession, without deterioration. A great many theories 
have been advanced assigning causes for this, but they are 
as yet far from satisfactory, and as this is not a book of 
theory but of practice, I will not further allude to them. 
The following general rules will be found useful as a 
guide : — 



HOW, WHEN, AND WHERE TO SOW SEEDS. 87 

1st. Plants, of the same family, should not be planted to 
succeed each other. 

2d. Plants, which occupy the ground for a number of 
years, such as Rhubarb and Asparagus, should be succeeded 
by annual plants. 

3d. Crops, grown for heads, such as Cauliflower, Cabbage 
etc., should be succeeded by crops grown for their bulbs or 
roots. 

It is hardly practicable to vary crops according to any set 
rule, the demand in different localities for certain articles 
being greater than in others. Generally variety enough is 
demanded to allow of sufficient rotation. Our system of 
heavy manuring, deep culture, and taking two crops from 
the ground each season, seems to do away in a great meas- 
ure with the necessity for systematic rotation, which would 
often be found to be very inconvenient. The crops of all 
others, that we find most benefitted by change are, the 
Cabbage tribe, together with the allied Turnip, Radish, etc., 
while on the other hand we have grown Onions successively 
on the same ground for ten years — the last crop just as 
good as the first ; but as a rule of safety, vary whenever you 
can. 

Quantity of Seeds per Acre. — The quantities given 
below are somewhat higher in some kinds than the usual 
estimates, our experience showing us that in weak vegetat- 
ing seeds, such as Parsnips, Carrots, etc., it requires num- 
bers, particularly on stiff soils, to force through plants 
enough to form a crop ; more seed is required when sown 
during the dry hot months of summer, than if sown in the 
cooler and moist seasons of spring and fall, hence quantities 
are regulated accordingly. 



88 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 



QUANTITY OF SEED REQUIRED TO SOW AN ACRE. 

Beans, Dwarf in drills 11 bushels. 

Beans, Pole in hills 10 to 12 quarts. 

Beets in drills 5 to 6 pouuds. 

Cabbage in beds to transplant i pound. 

Carrot in drills 3 to 4 pounds. 

Corn in hills 8 to 10 quarts. 

Corn, (for soiling) 3 bushels. 

Cucumber in hills 2 pounds. 

Mustard broadcast 1 bushel. 

Melon, (Musk) in hills 2 to 3 pounds. 

Melon, (Water) in hills 4 to 5 pounds. 

Onion in drills 5 to 6 pounds. 

Onion, (for sets) in drills 30 pounds. 

Onion, (sets) in drills G to 12 bushels. 

Parsnip in drills 4 to G pounds. 

Peas in drills 11 bushels. 

Peas broadcast 3 bushels. 

Potato, (cut tubers) 10 busbels. 

Pumpkin in hills 4 to G pounds. 

Radish in drills 8 to 10 pounds. 

Sage in drills 8 to 10 pounds. 

Salsify in drills 8 to 10 pounds. 

Spinach in drills 10 to 12 pounds. 

Squash, (bush varieties) in hills 4 to G pounds. 

Squash, (running varieties) — in hills 3 to 4 pounds. 

Tomato to transplant £ pound. 

Turnip in drills 1 to 2 pounds. 

Turnip broadcast 3 to 4 pounds. 

Barley broadcast 2 to 3 bushels. 

Broom Corn in hills 8 to 10 quarts. 

Clover (Red) alone 15 to 20 pounds. 

Clover (White) alone 12 to 15 pounds. 

Clover (Alsike) alone 8 to 10 pounds. 

Clover (Lucern) alone 20 pounds. 

Grass (Mixed Lawn) 3 bushels. 

Oats broadcast 2 to 3 bushels. 

Rye. broadcast lh to 2 bushels. 

Vetches broadcast 2 to 3 bushels. 

Wheat broadcast 11 to 2 bushels. 

Timothy, alone 1 bushel. 

Millet 1 to 1 bushel. 



HOW, WHEN, AND WHEEE TO SOW SEEDS. 



89 



MIXTURE FOR SEEDING- MOWING LANDS. 

Clover, ) together j 10 pounds Clover. 

Timothy, V for -j i bushel Timothy. 

Red-Top, ) oue acre ( 1 bushel Red- Top. 



QUANTITY OF SEEDS REQUIRED FOR A GTVEN NUMBER OF PLANTS, NUM- 
BER OF HILLS, OR LENGTH OF DRILL. 



Asparagus, 1 oz CO ft. of drill. 

Beet, 1 02 50 ft. of drill. 

Beans, Dwarf, 1 qt..l00 ft. of drill. 

Beans, Pole, 1 qt 150 hills. 

Carrot, 1 oz 150 ft. of drill. 

Cucumber, 1 oz 50 hills. 

Corn, 1 qt 200 hills. 

Dandelion, 1 oz 200 ft. of drill. 

Endive, 1 oz 150 ft. of drill. 

Leek, 1 oz 100 ft. of drill. 

Melon, Water, 1 oz 30 hills. 

Melon, Musk, 1 oz 60 hills. 

Okra, 1 oz 40 ft. of drill. 

Onion, 1 oz 100 ft. of drill. 

Onion, Sets, 1 qt. . . .40 ft. of drill. 
Parsley, 1 oz 150 ft. of drill. 



Parsnip, 1 oz 200 ft. of drill. 

Peas, 1 qt 100 ft. of drill. 

Pumpkin, 1 oz 40 hills. 

Radish, 1 oz 100 ft. of drill. 

Salsify, 1 oz 70 ft. of drill . 

Spinach, 1 oz 100 ft. of drill. 

Squash, Early, 1 oz 50 hills. 

Squash, Marrow, 1 oz 16 hills. 

Turnip, 1 oz 150 ft. of drill. 

Cabbage, 1 oz 2,030 plants. 

Cauliflower, 1 oz 2,000 plants. 

Celery, 1 oz 3,000 plants. 

Egg Plant, 1 oz 1,000 plants. 

Lettuce, 1 oz 3,000 plants. 

Pepper, 1 oz 1,000 plants. 

Tomato, 1 oz 1,500 plants. 



THE NUMBER OF PLANTS, TREES, ETC., REQUIRED TO SET AN ACRE. 



Distance. Number. 

lft. by lft 43,560 

lift, by lift 19,360 

2 ft. by 2 ft 10,890 

Sift. by2ift 0,970 

3 ft. by lft 14,520 

3 ft. by 2 ft 7,200 

3 ft. by 3 ft 4,840 

4 ft, by 4 ft 2,722 

5 ft. by 5 ft 1,742 



Distance. Number. 

Oft. by 6 ft 1,200 

Oft. by 9 ft 537 

12 ft. by 12 ft 302 

15 ft. by 15 ft 194 

13 ft. by 18 ft 134 

20 ft. by 20 ft 103 

25 ft. by 25 ft 70 

30 ft. by 30 ft 40 

40 ft. by 40 ft 2? 



CHAPTER XIV. 

TRANSPLANTING. 



Transplanting is an operation of great importance ; 
the condition of the plant, the state of the soil, and of 
the atmosjmere, have mnch to do with its success, inde- 
pendently of the simple mechanical operation. It is not 
very easy to instruct the uninitiated as to what the proper 
condition of the plant should be ; experience in this being, 
as in everything else, the best teacher. Attention to keep- 
ing the seed-bed clear of weeds, the " topping " of plants 
when they get too tall, and careful digging up of them 
so as to preserve the root fibres, will all greatly assist. 
We cannot always get the soil in the proper condition 
of moisture to receive plants at the time transplanting 
should be performed, but to make up for the want of mois- 
ture, planting should be delayed always until late in the 
afternoon, unless in cloudy weather. It is also of great 
importance that the ground be freshly plowed; the moist 
soil thus brought to the surface will induce the formation 
of root fibres in one night, after which the plants are 
comparatively safe ; but if they be allowed to wilt befora 
90 



TRANSPLANTING. 91 

the new roots begin to be emitted, and continued dry 
weather ensues, then nothing will save them but having 
recourse to watering, which should always be avoided if 
possible. In planting, each man is provided with a boy, who 
carries the plants in a basket, and whose duty is to drop 
the plant on the line at the proper distance before the 
planter. In planting, a hole is made by the dibber about 
the depth of the root ; the plant being inserted, the soil is 
then pressed close to the root, the hole thus made by the 
displacement of the soil is again filled up by one stroke of 
the dibber. In dry weather we still further firm the plant, 
by each planter returning on his row, and treading the soil 
around plants firmly with the feet. I am thus particular 
in de&cribing a simple matter, knowing well, that millions 
of plants are annually lost by inattention to this firming of 
the soil. The same rule is applicable to transplanting of 
all kinds, trees, shrubs, or vegetables. Instead of " pud- 
dling " the roots in mud, we prefer to keep the plants 
dripping wet during the whole time of planting, so that 
each plant, as it is put in the soil, puddles itself by the 
particles of soil adhering to the wet root. Besides, the 
leaves of the plant, being wet, will for some time resist 
the action of the dry air. 

Planting of Vegetable Plants.— A year or two ago, 
about the middle of April, the snow, after its long ac- 
quaintance with us during the past winter, intruded itself 
again in the spring, and covered our newly-planted 
gardens to the depth of several inches. Veteran tillers 
of the soil could smile at this assault, knowing it to be 
harmless. But correspondents, still young in the busi- 
ness, wrote to me fearing their planted crops were ruined. 



92 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

A snow, after planting in spring, I have never known 
to injure plants of any kind, unless, indeed, it was heavy 
enough to break them. The fear of snow and of the 
slight late frosts often prevents the setting of such 
plants as Cabbage, Lettuce, and even Asparagus, among 
vegetables, and of Strawberries and other small fruits, 
until the season is so far advanced that hot weather 
comes on, starting the tops before the roots have had 
time to get a foothold. There is rarely danger that such 
hardy or half-hardy plants as we plant in spring will be 
injured by any frost that may come after they are put out. 
This opening up for spring work usually begins by the 
end of March, here, and I have never yet seen plants in- 
jured by frost after that time. 

To give an idea Avhat amount of cold Cabbage and Let- 
tuce plants will stand without injury, I will relate an ex- 
perience I had in my early days of market gardening. A 
particularly mild spell in the latter part of February had 
led us to believe that spring had come. Out went the 
teams, and the ground was manured, ploughed, and 
planted with Cabbage and Lettuce to the extent of two 
acres, which was all finished up by the 26th of February. 
It was my second year in the business. I was yet an in- 
experienced hand, and my neighbors predicted that my 
venture was a foolhardy one, and would result in total 
loss, no one having ever before planted such crops in this 
section at such an early season. But fortune favored me ; 
the weather continued mild long enough to allow the 
plants to " strike root," and though the thermometer 
afterward marked as low as 15° above zero, and the 
ground was frozen for full ten days, so that it could not 



TRANSPLANTING. 93 

be again dug or ploughed, yet the wild venture proved a 
success, and I had the satisfaction of having the first Cab- 
bages from that February planting that were sold in 
market. I never after had an opportunity of planting so 
early, and would not do it if I had, for it was simply 
favorable conditions that saved the crop. If the cold snap 
had set in immediately after planting, there is but little 
doubt the plants would have suffered injury. But the ex- 
perience was valuable in showing what severity of frost 
such plants would stand without injury. Much depends 
on the condition of the plants ; if taken from the hot-bed 
or frame without being previously exposed, they might be 
in condition to be as easily injured as a Tomato plant. 

The past season I had the sashes taken off my entire 
crop of Cabbage and Lettuce plants on March 1st (they 
being hardened beforehand by ventilating), and never 
covered them again. They were twice covered up with 
snow, and the mercury several times marked only 20° 
above zero. Yet we hardly ever before had finer plants. 

The sashes so taken off — nearly 1,000 in number — were 
used for our flower business, but, had we desired it, they 
might have been used on temporary frames, and grown a 
crop of Lettuce which in five weeks from date of planting, 
March 1st, would have easily given $3 per sash. I men- 
tion these facts to give confidence to the hundreds now 
engaged in market gardening, who, from dread of expos- 
ing their plants in spring, not only do them an injury, but 
lose the profit of a second use of their sashes. A third use 
of sashes may be had in growing Tomato, Sweet-potato, 
or Egg-plants, after the crop of Lettuce is sold, or for- 
warding an early crop of Cucumbers or Melons. 



CHAPTER XV. 

PACKING OF VEGETABLES FOR SHIPPING. 



This is a matter for which it is not very easy to give 
directions, as the distance, season, and articles to be packed 
will greatly determine the manner in which it is to be 
done ; but a few general directions may assist the inex- 
perienced. 

The mode of packing during spring and summer is al- 
most entirely the reverse of that practiced during autumn 
or winter, for the reason that, when the temperature is 
high, provision must be made in the package for the ad- 
mission of air to prevent the articles from heating ; while 
in cold weather, when there is but little danger from heat- 
ing, but more to be apprehended from frost, close packages 
must be used accordingly. 

As early vegetables are always shipped from a warm 

climate to a colder one, at a season which, of course, must 

be warm to mature them, open work baskets or slatted" 

boxes must be used. If barrels are used, care must be 

taken that openings be made plentifully in the sides, so 

that air may be admitted. For distances requiring a delay 
94 



PACKING OFVEGETABLES FOR SHIPPING. 95 

of more than forty eight hours in the transit, for most ar- 
ticles, barrels are too large ; boxes or baskets, one-fourth 
the capacity of a flour barrel, being safer. The articles 
shipped in this manner from southern ports to northern 
markets, are : Asparagus, Beans, Cucumbers, Lettuce, 
Melons, Peas, Radishes, Tomatoes, and other summer 
crops. Bulky articles, such as Cabbages, Beets, Sweet 
Corn, Water Melons, Turnips, are often shipped loose on the 
decks of steamers, sloops, etc. ; but even then, care must 
be taken that the heaps are not too large, else they may 
be injured by heating. The judgment of the shipper must 
be exercised in respect to the article to be shipped. Articles 
that lay close, will require to be shipped in smaller pack- 
ages than those that lie so loosely that the air can pass 
among them ; for example, Melons may be safely packed 
in a barrel, w r hile, if Tomatoes were so packed, they would 
be utterly destroyed. 

The winter or fall shipping of vegetables is the reverse 
of the summer, for then we send from the North to the 
South, our colder and damper atmosphere being more 
congenial to the growth of late crops. Close packages 
are now used, but still not too large ; barrels being best 
suited to such articles as Beets, Carrots, Celery, Onions, 
Parsnips, Potatoes, or Turnips, while Cabbages and Cauli- 
flowers may be shipped in crates or in bulks. 






CHAPTER XVI. 

PRESERVATION OF VEGETABLES IN WINTER. 



Our manner of preserving vegetable roots in winter is, 
I think, peculiar to this district, and is very simple and 
effective. 

After taking up such crops as Beets, Carrots, Horse- 
radish, Parsnips, Turnips, Potatoes, etc., in fall, they are 
put in temporary oblong heaps, on the surface of the 
ground on which they have been growing, and covered up 
with 5 or 6 inches of soil, which will .keep off such slight 
frosts as are likely to occur until time can be spared to 
put them in permanent winter quarters ; this is done in 
this section usually during the first part of December, in 
the following manner : A piece of ground as dry as pos- 
sible is chosen ; if not naturally dry, provision must be 
made to carry off the water, lower than the bottom of the 
pit. The pit is dug out from three to four feet deep, 
about six feet wide, and of the length required ; the roots 
are then packed in in sections of about two feet wide 
across the pit, and only to the hight of the ground level. 

Between the sections, a space of half a foot is left, which 
96 



PRESERVATION OP VEGETABLES IN WINTER. 97 

is filled up with the soil level to the top; this leaves the 
pit filled up two feet wide in roots, and half a foot of soil, 
and so on until the whole is finished. The advantage of 
this plan is, that it is merely a series of small pits, holding 
from three to five barrels of roots, which can be taken out 
for market without exposing the next section, as it is 
closed off by the six inches of soil between. Also, that 
we find that roots of all kinds keep safer when in small 
bulk, than when large numbers are thrown into one pit 
together. In covering, the top is rounded so as to throw 
off the water, with a layer of from 18 inches to 2 feet of 
soil. This way of preserving roots, with perhaps the ex- 
ception of Potatoes, is much preferable to keeping them 
in a cellar or root house, as they not only keep fresher, re- 
taining more of their natural flavor and color, but far 
fewer of them are lost by decay than when exposed to 
the air and varying temperature of a cellar. Unmatured 
heads of Cauliflower, or Broccoli, however, are best matur- 
ed in a light cellar or cold frame, by being planted in close 
together ; in this way, good heads may be had to Janu- 
ary. Cabbages are preserved very simply ; they are left 
out as late as they can be pulled up by the roots, in this 
section about the end of November, they are then pulled 
up and turned upside down — the roots up, the heads 
packed close together, in beds six feet wide, with six feet 
alleys between, care being taken to have the ground lev- 
elled where the cabbages are placed, so that they pack 
nicely. . They are left in this way for two or three weeks, 
or as long as the ground can be dug between the alleys, 
the soil from which is thrown in on the beds of Cabbage, 
so that, when finished, they have a covering of four or six 



98 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

inches of soil. This is not enough to cover the root how- 
ever, which is left partly exposed, but this is in no way 
injurious. Some prefer to cover them up at once by plow- 
ing a furrow, shoveling it out wide enough to receive the 
heads of the Cabbages, then turning the soil in on the 
heads, and so continuing until beds of six or eight feet are 
thus formed. This plan is rather more expeditions than 
the former, but it has the disadvantage of compelling 
them to be covered up at once by soil, while the other plan 
delays it two or three weeks later, and it is of the utmost 
importance in preserving vegetables that the operation 
(particularly the final covering) be delayed as late in the 
season as frost will permit. Generally more are lost by be- 
ginning too soon than delaying too late. Onions, we find, 
are best preserved in a barn or stable loft, in layers of 
from 8 to 10 inches deep, covered up with about a foot of 
hay or straw on the approach of severe frosts. The great 
points to be attained are a low temperature and a dry at- 
mosphere ; they will bear 20 degrees of frost without in- 
jury, provided they are not moved while frozen, but they 
will not stand a reduction of temperature much lower than 
this without injury. 



CHAPTER XVII. 

INSECTS. 



We have but little trouble with insects in our highly 
cultivated grounds ; what with continued moving of the 
soil by plowing and harrowing every foot, from three to 
four times each season, incessant hoeinsr, and the diofo-inor 
up of the crops, we give these pests but little chance for a 
foot-hold. We are, however, occasionally troubled with 
Aphides, the " Green-fly," in our forcing houses of Let- 
tuce. A complete remedy for this trouble, in its early 
stages, is smoke from burning tobacco stems; or tobacco 
stems steeped in water to give it about the color of strong 
tea, and applied with a syringe, will thoroughly destroy 
them. " Jumping Jack," or the Turnip-fly, occasions 
some trouble with late sowings of Cabbages, Turnips, 
and Radishes, but we find an excellent preventive in dust- 
ing lime over the beds, immediately the seeds begin to 
germinate. It is of the utmost importance to use preven- 
tives in the case of insects, for if once they get a lodge- 
ment, it is almost useless to attempt their destruction. 
The striped Cucumber-bug, which, with us, attacks late 
sowings only, we have found to yield readily to a few ap- 
plications of bone-dust, which serves the double purpose 
of disturbing the insect and encouraging the growth of 
99 



100 GAEDENING FOE PEOPIT. 

the crop. But our most formidable enemy of the insect 
tribe is that which attacks the roots of the Cabbage fam- 
ily, causing the destructive disease known as the " club- 
root." There is a general misconception of the cause of 
this disease ; happily our peculiar location here, gives me 
the means, I believe, of thoroughly disproving some of 
these absurd dogmas, that club-root is caused by " hog 
manure," " heavy soil," " light soil," etc. I do not doubt 
that it has appeared thousands of times with just 
such conditions ; yet, within three miles from the City 
Hall of New York, I can show to-day, on the classic 
shores of Communipaw, scores of acres that have been 
just so manured, both light soils and heavy soils, that 
have grown Cabbages for twenty consecutive years, and 
yet, the first appearance of club-root is yet to be seen. 
On the other hand, I can show on soils, not more than a 
mile distant from those on the Communipaw shore, where 
the ground is cultivated in the very best possible manner, 
and where every variety of manure has been tried, and 
yet it is impossible to get a crop of Cauliflower or Cabbage 
clear from club-root for two years in succession. Now, the 
reason of the immunity from the pest on the one variety 
of the soil, and not on the other, does not, to us, admit of 
the slightest particle of doubt. On the shore side, and 
for nearly a mile inland, there are regular deposits of oys- 
ter shell, mixed with the soil, almost as we find pebbles in a 
gravelly soil ; now, our theory is, that the insect which 
occasions the club-root, cannot exist in contact with the 
lime, which of course is present in large amount in a soil, 
containing such abundance of oyster shell. Reasoning 
from this, we have endeavored to bring up soils deficient in 



INSECTS. 101 

shell, by heavy dressings of lime ; this answered, however, 
only temporarily, and we found it too expensive to con- 
tinue it. The increasing demands for manures in the 
vicinity of New York, has rendered them of late years 
scarce and high in price, so that we were necessitated to 
begin the use of guano and other concentrated manures, 
and as this was rather new with us in our market gardens, 
we have had the pleasure of some very interesting experi- 
ments. Last season, in my grounds at Jersey City, where 
we have never been able to get two crops of Cabbages 
successively, without having them injured by club-root, my 
foreman suggested to me to experiment with a bed, of about 
half an acre, to be planted with early Wakefield Cabbage. 
One-half of this he proposed to manure at the rate of 
75 tons per acre with stable manure, the other half with 
flour of bone, at the rate of 2000 pounds per acre ; this 
was accordingly done in the usual way, by sowing the 
bone-dust on the ground after plowing, and then thoroughly 
harrowing in. During the month of May we could see no 
perceptible difference in the bed ; but just as soon as our 
first hot days in June came, down wilted the portion that 
had been dressed with stable manure, showing a well-de- 
fined line the whole length of the bed, and, on pulling the 
plants up, we found that our enemy was at work, while in 
that portion that had been dressed by the bone-dust, not 
a wilted plant could be seen, but, on the contrary, the 
crop had most unusual vigor. This experiment has been 
to me one of the most satisfactory I ever tried ; it still 
further proves, that this destructive insect cannot exist to 
an injurious extent in a soil impregnated with lime, and also 
proves, that we have a most effective remedy in this valu- 



102 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

able and portable manure. The experiment was, however, 
to me rather a costly one ; our past experience told us 
that there was no reason to expect that the portion, on 
which the stable manure was used, would not be attacked 
by club-root, as it had borne a crop of Cabbage the pre- 
vious year, and nearly twenty years' working of that soil 
had shown that this crop could never be grown succes- 
sively two years ; but experiments, to be satisfactory, must 
be done on a scale of some magnitude, and although I lost 
some $200 by the difference in the crop, I believe it to 
have been a profitable investment. 

I have incidentally stated that the Cabbage crop, treated 
in the usual manner, can only be grown every alternate 
year, the reason of which we infer to be, that the insect 
is harmless to the plant when in the perfect state the first 
season, but that it is attracted by the plant, deposits its 
eggs in the soil, and that in the larva condition in which 
it ajDpears the second year, it attacks the root. Whether 
this crude theory is correct or not, I will not presume to 
say, but if it is not, how can we account for the fact of our 
being able to grow this plant, free from its ravages every 
alternate year, while, if we attempt to do so successively 
without the use of lime, it is certain to be attacked? 

All authorities on gardening, that I have had access to, 
seem to be unaware of the fact that clufe-root is never seen 
in soils impregnated with shells. This variety of soil is 
not common. I have never seen it anywhere except here, 
and as I have before said, this peculiarity of location most 
fortunately gives a certain clue to the facts, and directly 
points out the remedy, which, I think, we have found to 
be in the copious use of bone-dust as manure. 



INSECTS. 103 

Another enemy of the Cabbage plant and one that is 
sometimes even more destructive than the club root, is 
the Cabbage Caterpillar. This insect is comparatively a 
new-comer, having been imported from Europe by way 
of Canada, It is produced by the small white butterfly 
that is seen hovering over the Cabbage patches in spring. 
It attacks the leaves of the plant, and is such a vora- 
cious feeder that it will quickly destroy a whole planta- 
tion. I am frequently applied to for a remedy for this 
pest, but regret to say I know of none that is certain. 
Nothing is more dim cult and unsatisfactory than the at- 
tempt to defeat the ravages of insects in the open field, 
and I have yet to know of any being entirely successful. 
In the long-cultivated gardens of New Jersey and Long 
Island we do not suffer much from the ravages of either 
of the above pests. The soil is so repeatedly turned over 
and disturbed that I presume the maggot is not left long 
enough at rest to develop itself in sufficient numbers to 
produce any great injury; and the luxurious growth re- 
sulting from the continued and heavy manuring seems to 
be less inviting to the butterfly to deposit her eggs than 
the feebler growth of less fertile soils. Or it may be that 
the increase of English sparrows is helping us in both 
these cases, by destroying the fly that produces the mag- 
got, or the small white butterfly that produces the cater- 
pillar, or it may be that they feed on the caterpillar itself, 
as I know they do with the rose-slug. At all events, the 
farmer will gain by encouraging and caring for the spar- 
rows. A few years ago the street trees of New York, 
Brooklyn, and Jersey City were festooned by myriads of 

now, since the advent of the 



104 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

sparrows, they are scarcely ever seen. The sparrows will 
live in any section of the country if properly housed and 
fed in winter, and if such care was general, we should hear 
fewer complaints of insect ravages. True, they might 
exact wages for their services in requiring a little grain, 
but of the two evils, better submit to that done by the 
birds than to the insects. 

I will relate an experiment to destroy the Cabbage 
Caterpillar, which occurred during this month in my im- 
mediate neighborhood. One of my neighbors found that 
the pest was attacking his Cabbages ; he came to me and 
asked what I thought of his using slaked lime to dust 
over them. I told him I had but little faith in it. But 
he was resolved to try it, and put it on at the rate of four 
or five barrels to the acre, carefully dusting it on each 
plant. This was about the 1st of June. On the 17th he 
came to me in triumph, saying that the remedy had been 
effectual, and that there was hardly a caterpillar to be 
seen. Unfortunately for the experiment, but fortun- 
ately for truth, another neighbor whose Cabbage patch 
had been attacked at the same time, but had received no 
lime, was also entirely clear of the caterpillar ! The cure 
was traceable to another cause. We had had a deluging 
rain, that swept off the caterpillars and started the Cab- 
bages into luxuriant growth at the same time. Had the 
insect come in the legions it does in some places, had 
there been no rain, and had the dry, hot weather con- 
tinued, the lime dust would probably have failed. 

Last summer I had with great care nursed along in my 
greenhouses for many weeks a collection of rare varieties 
of German Stock Gillyflowers, a plant belonging to the 



INSECTS. 105 

same natural order (Cruciferae) as the Cabbage. Upwards 
of two thousand plants were set out in June, on rather 
poor soil ; by the middle of July they had made splendid 
plants, one foot across, and just as they were bursting 
into bloom we observed the little white butterfly moving 
amongst them, and knew what might be expected to fol- 
low. Lime dust, solutions of carbolic soap, whale oil 
soap, and sundry other things were used, all to no effect, 
and by middle of August the plants were literally eaten 
up by the caterpillar. There is nothing more unpleasant 
than to tell any one suffering under a calamity that there 
is no tangible remedy; but it is infinitely better to do so 
than to delude them with a false one. I have been a 
worker of the soil since my boyhood, and every year's 
experience convinces me of the helplessness of remedies 
against insects or other blighting plagues that attack 
vegetation in the open field. It is true that the amateur 
gardener may save his dozen or two of cabbages or roses 
by daily picking off or destroying the insects ; but when 
it comes to broad acres, I much doubt if ever any remedy 
will be found to be practicable. We have one consolation 
in knowing that these pests are only periodical, and never 
continue so as to permanently destroy. 



CHAPTER XVIII 

VEGETABLES, THEIR VARIETIES AND CUL- 

TIVATION. 



In describing the modes of cultivating the different va- 
rieties of vegetables, I shall notice at length only those 
of the most importance, and the most profitable for market 
purposes, while for those of less value as market crops, the 
directions for culture will be such as are adapted to private 
gardens only. 

A limited number of kinds will be described, and such 
only as our experience has shown to possess the greatest 
earliness and productiveness. Nothing is more perplexing 
to the beginner, than to be bewildered by descriptions of, 
perhaps twenty, so-called varieties of a vegetable, that per- 
haps, in reality, does not embrace four distinct kinds. For 
example, in early Cabbages, there are some hundred or more 
varieties described; yet we find, after having experi- 
mented with some scores of kinds in our time, there is 
one variety more profitable to grow than any other, viz. 

the Jersey Wakefield, which is grown in this locality to 
106 



VEGETABLES ASPARAGUS. 107 

the exclusion of all others. However, some kinds are 
found to do better in some localities than in others, hence, 
as in fruits, no particular variety should be claimed to be 
universally the best. 

ASPARAGTJS.— {Asparagus officinalis.) 

Asparagus being a hardy perennial plant, that may be 
grown on the same ground for twenty years without re- 
newal, special care is required in forming the beds in 
which it is to grow. This is done sometimes by trench- 
ing to the depth of two or three feet, mixing each layer 
of soil, as turned over, with two or three inches of well 
rotted manure; but for market purposes, on a large scale, 
trenching is seldom resorted to ; deep and thorough pul- 
verizing by the plow and subsoiler serving instead. The 
soil best suited for Asparagus is a deep and rather sandy 
loam, such as is often to be found on the borders of mead- 
ows or on the margins of lakes — land formed by the wash- 
ings of the higher grounds, and known as alluvial. 

Propagation. — Asparagus is propagated by seed which 
is sown in spring, as soon as the soil will admit of working, 
which should be prepared, by being thoroughly pul- 
verized, and enriched with well-rotted manure. The seed 
is sown in rows 1 foot apart, and if kept carefully hoed, 
and clear from weeds, the plants will be in fine condition to 
plant out the succeeding spring. Strict attention to this 
will save a year in time ; for if the seed bed has been neg 
lected, it will take two years to get the plants as large as 
they would be in one year, if they had been properly cared 
for. In consequence of this very common neglect of 
proper cultivation of the seed bed, it is an almost uni- 



108 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

versal impression that the plants must be two or three 
years old before planting. This is undoubtedly an error, 
for almost all large growers for market purposes, in the 
neighborhood of New York, invariably plant one-year old 
plants, and count on marketing a crop the third spring 
from the time of sowing. One pound of seed will pro- 
duce about 3000 plants ; and to plant an acre of Asparagus 
requires from 15,000 to 20,000 plants when planted close. 
Planting. — The bed being prepared as previously de- 
scribed, planting may be done any time for six or eight 
weeks from the opening of spring ; the plant, from its pecu- 
liar succulent roots, is less susceptable of injury from late 
planting than most other vegetables, although at the same 
time delay should not occur, unless unavoidable, as the 
sooner it is planted after the ground is in working order, 
the better will be the result. When there is plenty of ground, 
and the crop is to be extensively grown, perhaps the 
best mode of planting is in rows 3 feet apart, the plants 
9 inches apart in the rows. For private use, or for market- 
ing on a small scale, beds should be formed 5 feet wide, 
with three rows planted in each; one in the middle, 
and one on each side, a foot from the edge ; the distance 
of the plants in the rows, 9 inches ; the alleys between 
the beds should be 2 feet wide. In planting, a line is set 
and a cut made, a little slanting, to the depth of 6 or 8 
inches, according to the size of the plants. The plants 
are then laid against the side of the trench, at the distance 
already named — 9 inches — care being taken to properly 
spread the roots. The crown or top of the plant should 
be covered about 3 inches. In a week or so after plant- 
ing, the beds should be touched over lightly with a sharp 



VEGETABLES ASPARAGUS. 109 

steel rake, which will destroy the germinating weeds. 
The raking had better be continued at intervals of a week 
or so, until the plants start to grow, when the hoe may 
be applied between the rows and alleys ; the weeds that 
come up close to the plant, must of necessity be pulled 
out by the hand. 

In the first edition of this work I gave it as my belief 
that we had only one variety of Asparagus, and that all 
the so-called " giant " and " mammoth " varieties were 
merely the results of superior soil or cultivation, which 
on being propagated by seeds or otherwise and placed in 
ordinary conditions of culture, would fall back to their 
original or normal condition; in short, that the species 
had never " broke," as we technically term it. 

This belief necessarily made me sceptical to the claims 
of the "Colossal" when that variety was first introduced, 
and I invariably replied to all inquirers that past ex- 
perience in this matter led me to believe that it was no 
different from the ordinary sort. 

I was finally invited to pay a visit to the farm of Abra- 
ham Van Siclen, of Jamaica, Long Island, and there to 
inspect an acre of the Oyster Bay Asparagus (the ordinary 
kind), and an acre of his " Colossal," which Mr. Van Siclen 
had planted in the spring of 1868, each then one year old 
from seed. A thorough inspection of the roots of each lot 
proved that they were of the same age. The soil was 
next examined, and found to be as near the same as it 
could well be, yet these two beds of asparagus showed a 
difference that left me no longer a shadow of a doubt of 
their being entirely distinct varieties. In the old variety 
we found no shoot thicker than one inch in diameter and 



110 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

averaging twenty shoots to a hill, while in the " Colossal " 
many shoots were found an inch and a half in diameter 
and averaging thirty-five shoots to a hill — an enormous 
growth, when it is remembered the plant was only three 
years from the seed. 

Mr. Van Siclen is well known as one of our best Long 
Island market gardeners, who has made the growing of 
Asparagus a specialty for twenty years, and who has prob- 
ably in that time sold more Asparagus in the markets of 
New York than any other man. He was exceedingly en- 
thusiastic in praise of this variety, believing that at a low 
estimate it would yield a profit of at least one-third greater 
than the ordinary sort, under the same conditions, besides 
coming to maturity two years sooner. 

Mr. Van Siclen's method of growing Asparagus is simple, 
and in some respects new to me. To begin, he sows his 
seeds in his rich sandy loam, in April, in rows one foot 
apart and two inches in depth, dropping the seeds so that 
they may be distributed evenly about half an inch apart ; 
the plants are cultivated by hoeing between the rows and 
keeping them clear of weeds by hand picking. In the 
spring following he sets his plants, now one year old, 
which are in his experience preferable to those two years 
old. His mode of planting is somewhat different from the 
usual practice, but for having a lasting Asparagus bed — 
one that will be as good at the end of twenty years as it 
is at eight — it is certainly the best. It differs in putting 
the roots much wider apart than usual, his stand 
six feet between the rows and four feet between the plants, 
making less than two thousand plants to an acre. In pre- 
paring the land to receive the plants, he merely plows to 



VEGETABLES — ASPARAGUS. Ill 

the depth of a foot or so with the ordinary plow ; his soft, 
sandy subsoil rendering the use of the subsoil plow un- 
necessary, but in soils less favored, the use of the subsoil 
plow would be of decided advantage. In preparing to 
plant, he tarns out a furrow with a double mould-board 
plow, so that at its deepest part it is nearly 12 inches 
deep ; a good shovelful of thoroughly rotted manure is 
then placed in the furrow, at distances of four feet, so 
spread that it will make a layer of three inches or so ; an 
inch or two of soil is then thrown on the top of the manure 
and the Asparagus planted as shown in the engraving, 
and so deep that its crown is seven or eight inches below 
the surface level. The plant is now only partially covered 




Fig. 26. — MANNER OF PLANTING ASPARAGUS. 

up with the soil, say two or three inches, until it starts to 
grow, when the furrows are thrown in by the plow so 
that the whole surface is levelled, which places the crown 
of the Asparagus some seven or eight inches under the 
surface. This would be, perhaps, four inches too deep in 
heavy soils, but in light, soft soils it answers well. The 
first and second seasons after planting, no Asparagus is 
cut for market, as it weakens the roots, but in the third 
year a partial crop is taken, although the beds are not 
considered to be at their best until the sixth or seventh 
year. Their productiveness may be continued for twenty 
years by this wide system of planting, recourse being had 



112 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

to manuring freely annually, by digging or i)lowing it in 
around the roots before the crop lias started to grow, or 
after it is cut. 

I may here mention that Mr. Van Siclen has also a 
white form of the Colossal which he has carefully selected 
and preserved for several years past. It is entirely dis- 
tinct from the "Purple Top " variety, and we are sanguine 
that it will perpetuate its distinctive quality. If so, we 
shall have a most desirable novelty of this popular vege- 
table, which will be duly announced as soon as its per- 
manency of character is ascertained. 

The Application of Salt to Asparagus as a top- 
dressing, is of great benefit in inland districts, out of the 
range of a saline atmosphere ; but is of little or no benefit 
in the vicinity of salt water. When used, it should bo 
applied in spring only, at the rjxta of from 2 to 3 lbs. per 
square yard, strown on the surface ; the rains will dissolve 
it and wash it down to the roots. Besides its beneficial 
effects upon the plant, it is destructive to the wire worm, 
and other insects that are often troublesome to the As- 
paragus. 

We have found Asparagus beds very profitably benefit- 
ed by the application of superphosphate of lime, as a 
spring top-dressing, applied at the rate of 500 lbs. per 
acre, sown on the beds and hoed in. Experiments with 
this, on alternate rows, showed a difference of nearly 1 foo£ 
in hight of the stalk, in favor of the rows to which the 
superphosphate had been applied, over those which had 
none ; and a difference of nearly double the product when 
the crop was cut in the succeeding spring. 

The fall treatment of the Asparagus beds varies with 



VEGETABLES ASPARAGUS, 113 

the locality ; in cold regions, where, if left unprotected, 
the frost would penetrate "below the roots, a covering of 3 
or 4 inches of rough manure or leaves is necessary. Al- 
though an entirely hardy plant, it will start earlier, and 
with greater vigor in spring, if the root has not been sub- 
jected to severe freezing. In milder sections, no such 
precaution is necessary; all that need be done is to clear 
off the stems as soon as they are withered in the fall, and 
clean the beds preparatory to giving a dressing of 2 or 3 
inches of manure, which had better not be applied until 
spring. We believe the common practice of top-dressing 
Asparagus beds in fall to be a very wasteful one, in dis« 
tricts where it is not necessary to provide against severe 
freezing, for, as the plant is then dormant, the juices of 
the manure are either evaporated, or else washed down 
by rains below the roots of the plant. I remember, many 
years ago, having three small Asparagus beds under my 
charge, on one of which I applied in December 25 lbs. of 
Peruvian guano, dissolved in fifty gallons of water; in 
April the same application was made to another bed, and 
the other was left without anything. There was no per- 
ceptible difference between that to which the liquid had 
been applied in December and that to which none had 
been given, but on that which received it in April, nearly 
double the weight of crop was produced. Since then, all 
our practice, corroborated by direct experiment, has con- 
vinced me beyond all doubt, that manures, either liquid or 
solid, organic or inorganic, are unprofitably employed 
when applied to plants in the dormant state. 

In gathering the crop, caution must be used not to in- 
jure the plants by continued cutting ; for it must be borne 



114 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

in mind, that to reproduce annually its crop of shoots in 
spring, something must be left to grow to encourage the 
formation of fresh roots. In our market gardens, the 
practice is to cut off all the shoots as they are ready, un- 
til the middle of May or 1st of June, when the shoots be- 
gin to show signs of weakness ; then all is left to grow 
and no more cut. In its preparation for market, the 
shoots are tied up in round bunches, containing from 
twenty to thirty shoots in each. The tying material is 
usually bass-matting, as that is soft and has the necessary 
strength. It requires a little practice to do the "bunch- 
ing" rapidly, and it should be the object of the beginner 
to strive to attain this, as it is light work, and continued 
slowness in the operation will make a serious gap in the 
profits. 

The size of the bunch is governed by the abundance 
of the Asparagus; nine inches in length by five inches in 
diameter being the usual size. Uniformity in the bunches 
is secured by the use of a buncher, the simplest of which 
is made by setting four small stakes about six inches 
long upright in a bench in the form of a square, about 
four inches apart each way. The strings being laid down 
the shoots are piled up between the stakes, which hold 
them in place until the strings are tied ; the but-ends are 
then cut off square. Some quite ingenious Asparagus 
bunchers have been invented ; these subject the shoots to 
sufficient pressure to make a close, neat bunch. 

This crop is subject to so many conditions, that an 
average value can hardly be given; some of our growers 
here claim that it pays an annual clear profit of 81,000 per 
acre, while others say that it does not pay them over $-00 



VEGETABLES ASPARAGUS. 



115 



per acre. During a period of ten years, counting from 
the time the bed was planted, it is safe to say that, in this 
vicinity, the average profits per acre will be 8400. It is a 
crop that never fails to sell, is always productive if pro- 
perly treated, and having a great value for its weight — a 
ton often being worth from 8200 to 8400 — it is, in all 
respects, a valuable crop for the market gardener. 

In some localities, especially on Long Island, the As- 
paragus beetle (Crioceris asparagi) has injured the crop 

to such an extent as to cause whole 
plantations to be plowed under. 
When the beetle first appears, it may 
be controlled by picking it off and 
destroying it ; but if allowed to be- 
come established, the task is hope- 
less. The engraving (fig. 27) shows 
the insect in its different stages. The 
lower figure is a part of a branch, 
with the small black eggs attached 
by their ends ; these are given of the 
natural size, and magnified. The 
larva, or caterpillar, as well as the 
perfect beetle, are shown at the top 
of the engraving ; the natural size of 
these is indicated by the lines drawn at the side. When- 
ever the eggs or the larva) appear, cut and burn the 
plants, as long as any traces of the insect are to be seen; 
this must be done if it destroys every vestige of vegeta- 
tion. A remedy much in use in some sections, is to coop 
up hens in the vicinity of Asparagus beds, and let the 
chickens out to pick up the larvae and insects. 




Fig. 27. — ASPARAGUS 
BEETLE. 



116 



GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 



ARTICHOKE.— {Gynara Scolymus.) 

Although a vegetable as yet rarely seen in our markets, 
it is extensively used in Europe, particularly in France. 
The portion of the plant most used, is the undeveloped 
flower-head, or rather those portions of the flower-head 
called the scales of the involucre. They are sometimes 

boiled, and used as a sal- 
ad, with vinegar, oil, and 
salt ; but more generally 
in the raw state. 

Another use of the 
Artichoke is to blanch it, 
by tying the young side 
shoots moderately close 
together, as we tie En- 
dive, filling in between 
with soil to exclude the 
air until the shoots are 
blanched ; this is what is 
known as " Artichoke 
Salad," or " Artichoke 
Chard," it is used in 
this state in various 
forms of cookery, besides 

Fig. 28.-GUEEN GLOBE ARTICHOKE. J^g use fl ag a sa J a( J # 

It is a vegetable of easy culture, originally propagated 
from seeds, until a stock is secured, after \^rich it is read- 
ily increased by suckers from the root. These are planted 
out in April or May, in rows from 3 to 4 feet apart, and 2 
feet between the plants, care being taken that the plants 
are well firmed in planting, and if the weather i? drv, 










VEGETABLES — ARTICHOKE. 



117 



they must be freely watered until they start to grow. 
The plantation, the first season, will only give a partial 
crop; but, as it is a perennial plant, after being once 
planted, the same bed will remain in bearing for years. 
The plant may be said to be entirely hardy south of 
Mason and Dixon's Line, but north of that, it requires to 
be protected by covering between the plants, with 6 or 8 
inches of leaves or coarse manure. 

The Varieties are the Green Globe, and Common 
Green, differing but little, except in the form of the flow- 
er-bud, the former being globular, the latter conical. It 
is claimed by some that the Common Green is more hardy 
and productive, but we have grown them side by side for 
years, and never have observed any difference, except the 
very trifling one in the shape of the flower-bud. 



ARTICHOKE.— Jerusalem.— (Helianthus tuberosus.) 

This is an entirely different plant from the true Arti- 
choke, though it resembles it somewhat in flavor — hence 
its name. As it is very often confounded with the true 
Artichoke, we give an engraving of both. This one is 
a species of Helianthus, or Sun-flower, and the plant has 
the general appearance of a small Sunflower. The edible 
part of the plant is its tubers. These are like the potato 
in appearance, but when cooked, to the taste of most peo- 
ple, are very inferior in flavor. Their nutritive value is 
said, however, to be fully equal to that of the potato. 
Used in the raw state, it is pickled like the cucumber, or 
sliced, and eaten with vinegar as a salad, but as a culinary 



113 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

vegetable is but little grown, except for variety or novelty. 
Its culture is, in all respects, similar to the potato, but 
it is more productive, always free from disease, will grow 
almost in any soil or situation, and will stand the winter 
on light soils wherever a Parsnip crop will stand; for 



\ 





Fig. 29.— JERUSALEM AKTICHOKE. 

these reasons it has been suggested that it might prove a 
valuable food for cattle, or pigs, who eat it as freely as 
potatoes, when boiled. 

There are several varieties known as Red, Purple, Yel- 
low, and White Skinned. 



BASIL. — {Ocimum Basilicum.) 

An herb of a highly aromatic odor, and a strong flavor 
of cloves. It is used for flavoring soups, stews, and 
sauces, and is by some used in salads. Its culture is the 
same as that of other sweet herbs. The seed should be 
sown in the open ground, and not in frames, which is the 
English practice, and necessary there from their colder 
climate. Sow in rows 1 foot apart ; when 3 or 4 inches 
high, it may be transplanted in rows 1 foot apart, and 6 
inches between plants. If a small quantity only is re- 
quired, it may be thinned out in the seed rows, and left to 
grow where sown. 



VEGETABLES — BEAN. 119 

There are two species cultivated, namely, the Common 
Sweet Basil, (Ocimum JBasilicum), and the Bush Basil, 
(0. minimum). 



BALM. — (Melissa officinalis.) 

Another well-known aromatic herb, which has a very 
agreeable lemon-like odor. It is used as a tea for its sooth- 
ing effect in irritations of the throat and lungs, and a cen- 
tury ago was used as a specific for coughs and colds. Its 
young shoots are sometimes used as an ingredient in 
salads. It is rapidly propagated by divisions of the root, 
which, planted in spring, at 1 foot apart each way, will 
form a solid mass by fall. 

Besides the common kind, we have now in cultivation 
a beautiful variegated variety, possessing all the properties 
of the other. 



BEAN. — {Pliaseolus nanus.) — Bush, Kidney, or Snap. 

A leading vegetable of our market gardens, and ex- 
tensively cultivated in every section of the country 
North and South. Although it can be grown on soils that 
are not enriched by manure, yet, like almost every other 
vegetable, it is more profitable when grown on highly cul- 
tivated land. It is, what we term, a "tender" plant; 
that is, one that will be killed by the action of slight 
frosts, hence it is not planted until late enough in the 
spring, to secure it from the risk. As in a country pre- 
senting such differences of temperature as ours, no stated 
date can be given at which to sow, perhaps no safer rule 



120 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

can be adopted for sowing all " tender " vegetables for all 
parts of the country, than the time at which our great sta- 
ple, Indian Corn, is planted. This rule will be equally in- 
telligible to the inhabitants of Maine and to those of South 
Carolina, for all plant Corn and know, that our great 
enemy to early vegetation, " Jack Frost," will, without 
scruple, smite this "tender" vegetable if it be forced to 
grow before his icy reign is past. In this section, we plant 
Beans for first crop when we plant Corn, from 10th to 20th 
May. But as the crop of Beans comes rapidly to maturity, 
under favorable circumstances, in five or six weeks, it may 
be sown any time from these dates until July, August, or 
September, according to the temperature of the district. 

The culture in market gardens, is simply to draw drills 
about 3 inches deep, and from 18 inches to 2 feet apart, 
according to the richness of the soil ; the poorer the soil, 
the closer they can be planted. The seed is dropped in 
the drills 2 or 3 inches apart, and the soil covered in on 
them with the feet ; this we find to be a quicker and bet- 
ter method of covering in seeds of this size, than by the 
hoe or rake. After the plants have grown an inch or 
two, a cultivator is run between the rows, which gener- 
ally is all that is necessary to be done, until they are 
large enough to have a little earth thrown to each side of 
the row by the plow, which completes their cultivation. 
Beans, like Tomatoes and Peas, are easy of cultivation, and 
not at all particular to soil, and are, in consequence, rarely 
a profitable crop in the locality in which they are grown y 
hence the only way in which they are made profitable is, 
by growing South and shipping North, they being easily 
transported. Large quantities are grown in early soils 



VEGETABLES — BEAN. 121 

in southern sections of the country, and shipped to our 
large northern cities, and meet a rapid sale, at prices that 
must pay a large profit, if their manner of growing the 
crop is as simple as ours. It will be understood that thi 
crop is almost exclusively sold in pod, as snap shoots, (in 
the green unripened state), by the hucksters, and rarely 
as a shell bean. 

The varieties are now very numerous, but the following, 
placed in what we consider the order of their value to the 
market gardener, will embrace variety enough for all 
practical purposes. 

Early Valentine. — Early, productive, tender, succulent, 
and of excellent flavor; continuing longer in the green 
state than most of the varieties. Seeds, when ripe, sal- 
mon, speckled with purplish-rose. This variety is often 
marketable in six weeks from the time of sowing in May. 
Early China. — Rather earlier than the preceding,, but 
hardly so productive ; the pods become yellow quicker, 
which makes it not so valuable as a market variety. It is, 
however, grown by some in preference to the Valentine, 
it being considered aTew days earlier. Seeds, when ripe, 
white, purple speckled. 

Early Mohawk. — This variety is the most suitable for 
northern latitudes, as it is less susceptible of injury from 
cold than most of the others ; it is very productive, with 
pods five or six inches long, but is not recommended as an 
early variety. Seeds drab, with purple spots. 

Early Fijee. — A remarkably early and prolific variety, 
known also as White's Early. It is the hardiest and de- 
cidedly one of the best brush beans grown. Seeds drab 
or light slate color, marked and spotted with light drab. 



122 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

Black Wax. — This is a comparatively new variety. The 
pods when ripe are of a waxy yellow, transparent, very 
tender and of excellent quality. 

Refugee, or Thousand to One. — Very productive, 
though not early; young pods extremely tender and of 
fine flavor. This variety is very extensively grown for 
pickling, and has long been a standard sort. Seeds, dull 
yellow, speckled with purple. 

White Marrowfat. — This variety is the one so exten- 
sively grown for sale in the dry state ; it is also valued as 
a string bean, but is used to greater extent shelled, either 
green or dried. Seeds large, ivory white. 

Newington Wonder. — A remarkably productive sort 
and valued for private gardens. It is the best variety for 
forcing. The pods are very crisp and tender; the ripe 
seeds are light-brown, with a yellowish line near the eye. 

BEAN.— {Phaseolus vulgaris, etc.)— Running, or Pole. 

These require rather more care in culture than the 
Bush Beans. The soil best suited is sandy loam, which 
should be liberally enriched with short manure in the hills, 
which are formed, according to the variety, from 3 to 4 
feet apart, and provided with a stake from 8 to 9 feet in 
hight, set in the centre of each. This class of beans is 
particularly tender, and it is perfectly useless to plant the 
seeds before the weather has become settled and warm 
in spring, as they are almost certain to rot, and even 
should they not, the plant makes no growth, unless in un- 
interrupted warm weather. In this district, they shWd 



VEGETABLES BEAN. 123 

<iever be planted out until a week or more after the plant- 
mg of Bush Beans ; if planted at the same time, 10th of 
May, they are almost certain to fail. 

From five to six seeds are planted in each hill, about 2 
Liches deep. Being a vegetable requiring considerable 
expense in growing, staking, picking, etc., it brings a cor- 
respondingly high price p^r acre in market ; but maturing 
during the heat of summer, the advantage of earliness in 
this crop is not so manifest as in many others. The prof- 
its per acre average about $250, when sold for consump- 
tion in the locality in which it is grown. Shipped from 
earlier sections it, no doubt, would double the above 
amount. There are many varieties, but only a few of 
leading value. 

Large White Lima* — This is almost universally grown 
both for market and for private use. It is esteemed the 
best of all the pole beans. 

Dutch Case Knife. — A very productive variety, with 
long and broad pods ; it is of excellent flavor, and next 
to the Lima, is the best market sort. 

Indian Chief, or Algerian Wax. — One of the best 
varieties, either for snaps or shelled in the green state ; 
its tender, succulent and richly colored pods are much es- 
teemed ; they are produced in great abundance, and con- 
tinue fit for use longer than most varieties. In moist 
seasons they remain crisp and tender until the seeds have 
grown sufficiently to be used in the green state. 

Giant Wax. — A new variety ; pods from six to nine 
inches long, clear waxy yellow, thick and neshy, very 
productive ; tender and of good flavor ; seeds red. 



124 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

London Horticultural. — A very popular variety for 
private use, as it is equally serviceable in the green state, 
or, when mature enough, to shell. Seeds oval, marbled 
with purplish-brown. 

Scarlet Runner* — A great favorite in European 
gardens, both as an ornamental plant and a useful 
vegetable. It grows to the height of 9 or 10 feet, pro- 
ducing dazzling scarlet flowers, from July to October. 
Used as String Beans, and shelled. Seeds lilac, mottled 
with black. In the warmer portions of this continent, 
where it is a native, this species is perennial, with a fleshy 
root ; those who grow the plant for ornament sometimes 
take up the roots and preserve them through the winter, 
like Dahlia roots. There is a variety with white flowers 
and seeds. 



BEET.— {Beta vulgaris.) 

This is one of the leading and most valuable crops of 
our market gardens, and next to Cabbages, is perhaps the 
most extensively grown as an early crop. The soil best 
suited, is that which is rather light than otherwise, always 
provided that it is thoroughly enriched by manure. We 
make little difference in the manner of working or manur 
ing the ground for any of our leading early crops ; the 
ground must, in all cases, be thoroughly pulverized by 
plowing, subsoiling, and harrowing, and when stable ma- 
nure can be procured, plowed in at the rate of 75 or 100 
tons per acre. If stable manure cannot be had, the next 
best substitutes must be used in the quantities specified 



VEGETABLES BEET. 125 

6ee Chapter on Manures. As early in spring as the ground 
becomes fit to work, the Beets are usually sown in rows 
1 foot apart, made by the "marker," about 3 inches deep. 
We prefer to sow rather thickly, not less than 8 lbs. per 
acre, for the reason that late frosts often kill off a portion 
of the young plants, but when sown thickly, enough is 
generally left to make a crop, which amply repays the dif- 
ference of a few pounds of seed. After sowing, the drills 
are covered in by the feet, by walking along the rows, af- 
ter the bed is completed ; if the weather is dry, the whole 
is rolled, which better firms the soil around the seed and 
also leaves the ground level, making it easier to be hoed. 
Beets are occasionally planted 2 feet apart, and the inter- 
vening row sown with Radishes; the Radishes mature 
early, and are used or sold off soon enough to admit of 
more room for the Beet crop. It makes with us but lit- 
tle difference in the profits of the crop which way it is 
done, the results being nearly the same in each case ; but 
in places where limited quantities ol vegetables only can 
be disposed of, perhaps the latter plan is the best. The 
young Beets are thinned out to 6 inches apart when the 
rows are 1 foot apart, but when at 2 feet to only 4 inches, 
as they have more space between the rows for air. The 
thinnings of the Beets are used like Spinach, and when 
carefully handled, the thinnings will always sell for more 
than the price of the labor of thinning the crop. 

In this neighborhood, Beets sown first week in April, 
are begun to be marketed the first week in June, and en- 
tirely cleared off by July 1st, when the ground is prepar- 
ed for the second crop. It will be understood that they 
are at this early date sold in an immature state, before the 



126 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

root has reached complete development, but the great 
point is earliness ; the public being well satisfied to pay- 
more for it half-grown, if early, than when full grown, if 
late. 

This crop I have always considered a very profitable 
one, even at the seemingly low price of $1 per 100 rootSj 
tae average wholesale price in New York markets. But 
80,000 roots are grown per acre when sown at 1 foot apart, 
and although the labor of pulling and bunching up is 
greater than in some crops, yet, at $1 per 100, it will give 
an easy profit of $400 per acre. 

Beets are an excellent article to ship, and the price paid 
in New York, for the first lots from Savannah and Norfolk, 
etc., is often as high as $3 per 100 roots. 

The foregoing all relates to the crop in the green state 
for an early market, but they are also extensively grown 
for use in fall, winter, and spring. For this they are usu- 
ally sown later, often in some sections as a second crop, as 
late as July 1st, although in the Northern States the roots 
hardly develop enough when sown 
after June. The manner of saving 
them in winter, will be found under 
the head of Preserving Vegetables 
in Winter. 

The really useful varieties of Beets 

are very limited in number, and are 

embraced in the following, arranged 

Fig. 30.— early blood as usual, according to their merit as 

turnip beet. mar ket sorts. 

Egyptian Turnip. — This variety has proved to be a most 

valuable acquisition, being from 10 to 12 days earlier than 




VEGETABLES — BEET. 



127 



the old Blood Turnip. The roots are large in size, and of a 
rich deep crimson color ; from the smallness of the tops of 
the Egyptian at least one fourth more can be grown on 
the same space than we have been in the habit of raising. 
"W e have had some difficulty in obtaining the seed of this 
variety pure for the past two years, the demand for it 
having been so great as to induce adulteration with inferior 
kinds by foreign growers, but it is now 
being largely grown in this country, and 
will probably supersede all other varie- 
ties, both for market and private gardens 
where earliness is the object. 

Early Blood Turnip.— The standard 
early variety. Later than the Bassano, 
but being of richer color, it at once 
supplants it in market, soon as it comes 
in, which is usually in three or four days 
after that variety. 

Bassano* — The earliest of all known 
varieties ; outside color light red ; flesh 
white, veined with pink. Its earliness is 
its only merit, as it is coarser in flesh 
than the deep colored varieties. The 
proportionate quantity sown for market 
purposes should not be more than one sixth of the 
preceding. 

Dewing's Improved Blood Turnip.— This is an improved 
variety of the Early Blood Turnip, and is one of the best 
of the early round varieties. The roots are deep blood 
red, of fine form and flavor. An excellent market sort. 




Fig. 31.— LONG, 

SMOOTH BLOOD 

BEET. 



128 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

Long Smooth Blood.— A great improvement on the 
Common Blood Beet, being less strong and freer from root- 
lets, besides being a week earlier. It is now grown here 
to the entire exclusion of the other. The market demand, 
however, for early crops, requires twice the quantity of 
Round to that of Long ; for late sales of barrelled roots, 
exactly the reverse quantities are needed. 

Swiss Chard. — Is a distinct species from the Beet grown 
for its roots, known to botanists as Beta Cicla. It is cul- 
tivated solely for its leaves. The midrib of leaf is stewed 
as Asparagus, the other portions of the leaf being used as 
Spinach. The outer leaves are pulled off as in gathering 
Rhubarb. It is largely grown in France and Switzerland. 
In this country, it is now cultivated to some extent in 
private gardens only. Its handsome foliage is as attrac- 
tive as many of our prized flower-garden " leaf plants," 
and no doubt it would be much valued if we could only 
regard it without the idea that it is only a Beet. 

White Sugar. — The White Sugar or Silesian Beet 
attains a large size, and is extensively grown for feeding 
stock, although the young roots may be used for the table 
being sweet and well flavored. It is largely cultivated in 
Europe for the manufacture of sugar. 

Long Red Mangel Wurzel.— The variety most largely 
grown for feeding stock, producing roots of a large size ; 
often, when grown in good soil, measuring 18 inches in 
length, and from 6 to 8 inches in diameter. Color light 
red ; flesh, mottled white and rose-color. Early and 
productive. 

Yellow Globe Mangel Wurzel. — Also grown for feed- 






VEGETABLES BORECOLE. 129 

ing stock. Roots of large size and globular form growing 
about one half above ground. It is a very productive 
variety, yielding from 30 to 40 tons per acre ; keeps better 
than the Long Red, and is better adapted for growing in 
shallow soils. Flesh, white mottled with red. 



BORECOLE OR KALE.— {Brassica oleracea. Var.) 

A variety of this receiving the rather indefinite term 
of " Sprouts," is extensively grown for the Northern mar- 
kets, many acres of it being cultivated in the vicinity 
of ISTew York. It is sown in the month of September, in 
rows 1 foot apart, treated in every way as Spinach, and is 
ready for use in early spring. It is difficult to keep in 
some soils in winter ; those of rather a light nature being 
the best. When successfully wintered over, it is a very 
profitable crop, not unfrequently selling for $500 per acre. 
The variety thus grown, is known in the seed stores aa 
Dwarf German Greens. Another class of it is cultivated 
as we grow late Cabbage ; it is sown in the open ground 
in May, and planted out at distances, according to the va- 
riety, from 2 to 3 feet apart. Of all the Cabbage tribe 
this is the most tender and delicate, and it is surprising 
that it has never yet been wanted in quantity enough to 
make it a marketable vegetable, not one head being sold 
to one thousand of the coarse winter Cabbage. The va- 
rieties are very numerous ; those below described are all 
standard sorts. 

Dwarf German Greens, or " Sprouts."— Color blueish- 



130 



GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 



green, slightly colored, resembling somewhat the foliage 
of Rata Baga Turnips ; it is of delicate flavor, and every 
way desirable. The popular market sort. 

Green Curled Scotch. — A rather dwarf variety, rarely 
exceeding 18 inches in bight, but spreading, when under 
good cultivation, to 3 feet in diameter. The leaves are 




Fig. 32.— GERMAN GKEENS. 

beautifully curled, and of a bright green. This variety is 
very hardy, and will remain over winter in any place 
where the temperature does not fall below zero ; it is most 
tender after being touched by sharp frost. 

Purple Borecole. — Similar to the above in all respects 
except color, which is of a dull purple. It is the variety 
most esteemed by the Germans; it is very hardy, and ia 
often seen in the markets of New York as late as* January. 



VEGETABLES BROCCOLI. 131 

A form of this, with its leaves beautifully variegated with 
green and purple, or with white, red and green, is culti- 
vated for ornament ; it is not so hardy as the plain. 

Cottagers' Kale* — A comparatively new variety, a great 
favorite in England. It is dwarf, not exceeding 12 inch- 
es ; leaves rich green, double curled and " feathered " al 
most to the ground. Very hardy, and a most profitable 
sort, more weight being grown in the same space than 
with any other variety. 



BROCCOLI. — (Brassica oleracea. Var.) 

This vegetable is so closely allied to Cauliflower, that it 
seems absurd to have ever divided them under different 
heads. Still we persist in growing them under the names 
of Broccoli and Cauliflower, the Broccoli being planted for 
fall use, Cauliflower, on the other hand, being mostly 
planted for summer use, although it is well known that 
their seasons might be reversed without any marked dif- 
ference in the results. Like all of the Cabbage tribe, 
Broccoli, to grow it in perfection, requires the soil to be in 
the highest possible degree of fertility. The seed should 
be sown, in this district, in the early part of May, wfefch 
will give plants large enough to be transplanted in JuxV. 
Farther south the sowing should be delaved until June oT 
July, and the transplanting delayed accordingly until 
August, September, or October. There is no doubt that in 
parts of the country where the thermometer does not fall 
below 20° or 25°, that Broccoli may be had in perfection 
from November until March. A necessary condition of 



132 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

perfect development, is a moist and rather cool atmosphere ; 
for this reason we only get the crop in fine condition, in 
this district, during the cool and moist months of October 
and November. Owing often, however, to heat or dry- 
ness in the months of August and September, the crop be- 
comes an entire failure, and for this reason, for market 
purposes, it is rather hazardous. When a good crop is 
made, however, it is very profitable, rarely bringing less 
than $12 per 100, or about $1000 per acre. The plants 
of most of the varieties are planted 2\ by 1\ feet, or about 
10,000 plants per acre. 

In this district, for market purposes, we confine ourselves 
to the first two varieties named below ; some others, 
however, are occasionally grown for family use. 

White Cape* — Heads of medium size, close, compact, 
and of a creamy white color ; one of* the most certain to 
head. 

Purple Cape* — Nearly similar in all respects to the 
White Cape, except in color, which is greenish-purple. 
This variety is rather hardier than the preceding, but its 
color renders it of less value in market. White heads of 
the same quality bringing $1 to $2 more per 100. This is 
mere matter of fancy in the buyers, however, as when 
cooked there is but little difference in its appearance from 
the White, and none whatever in the flavor. 

Early Walcheren* — This variety seems to produce its 
heads earlier than the preceding, but they are not usually 
so heavy or compact. This variety so closely resembles 
a Cauliflower that it is not easy to say in what respect it 
differs from one. In England, where the Broccoli is much 
more grown than with us, this variety is sown every few 



VEGETABLES — BRUSSELS SPROUTS. 



133 



weeks, in order to keep up a constant supply. The Eng- 
lish catalogues • enumerate some thirty or more varieties, 
and each year adds to the list. 



BRUSSELS SPROUTS.— (Brassica oleracea. Var.) 
This vegetable has never come into general use in thi3 
country, probably owing to its being too tender to stand 

the winters of the North- 
ern States. Still, by sow- 
ing in April or May, and 
planting out in July, it 
may be had in fine condi- 
tion until December; and 
in the Southern States, 
may be had in use from 
November to March. Even 
in England, where it is 
very extensively grown, it 
is not much raised for mar- 
ket, being mainly cultivat- 
ed for private use. Its 
cultivation is very simple, 
and it can be grown on 
almost any soil. Plant 
about 2 feet apart, and 
Fig. 33.— Brussels sprouts. cultivate as for Cabbages. 
Brussels Sprouts are readily distinguished from all 
other varieties of the Cabbage tribe by the sprouts or 
buds, about the size of walnuts, which grow thickly around 
the stem ; these sprouts are the parts used, and are equal 
in tenderness and flavor to Cauliflower or Broccoli. 




134 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

CAULIFLOWER.— {Brassica oleracea. Var,) 
As we remarked in the chapter on Broccoli, Cauliflower 
is mostly grown as a spring or summer crop, and as all 
such are more profitable, and consequently of more interest 
to the grower than crops maturing in fall, we will give its 
culture more at length. 

Any soil that will grow early Cabbages, will grow Caul- 
iflower, as their requirements are almost similar ; but as 
the product is more valuable, extra manuring and prepara- 
tion of the soil will be well re-paid. In situations where 
irrigation could be practised, it would be of great benefit 
in dry weather. We have occasionally found, when our beds 
were convenient to water, that even watering by hand has 
been of advantage. But few or no other crops of our gar- 
dens will re-pay that labor. The seeds of Cauliflower, 
(that we wish to be ready for market in June), are sown in 
the fall previous, between the 10th and 20th of September. 
In the course of four or five weeks the plants are trans- 
planted into frames, in the manner described in the chapter 
headed " Uses and Management of Cold Frames ; " but as 
they are rather more tender than Cabbage or Lettuce 
plants, we find it necessary to have the glass protected by 
straw-mats at night during winter. In cases where it is 
not convenient or practicable to have the plants thus win- 
tered over, they can be had nearly or quite as well by sow- 
ing the seed in the hot-bed, or vegetable forcing house, in 
January or February, and transplanting the plants to 2 or 
3 inches apart in boxes or in the soil of another hot-bed, 
until such time as they are safe to be planted in the open 
ground, which, with us, is usually from 15th of March to 
10th of April. If properly hardened off, they are rarely 



VEGETABLES CAULIFLOWER. 1 35 

injured by being planted out too early. It must be borne 
in mind that the plant is nearly hardy, and that 10 or 15 
degrees of frost will not injure it, provided it has been 
treated as its hardy nature requires, by having been ex- 
posed to the air previous to setting out in the open gar- 
den. I know that the general practice with amateur hor- 
ticulturists is very different from this, and that their usual 
time of planting Cauliflower is when they plant Tomatoes, 
and in consequence, failure is almost universal. The plant, 
set out in May, hardly gets root before hot weather sets 
in, and if the flower head is developed at all, it is merely 
an abortion of what it should be. With me, for the past 
four or five years, Cauliflowers have been one of my most 
profitable crops. I have during that time grown about 
one acre each year, which has certainly averaged $1500. 
On one occasion the crop proved almost an entire failure, 
owing to unusual drouth in May ; while on another oc- 
casion, with an unusually favorable season, it sold at nearly 
$3000 per acre. 

The average price for all planted is about $15 per 100, 
and as from 10,000 to 12,000 are grown to the acre, it will 
result in nearly the average before named — $1500 per 
acre. Unlike Cabbages, however, only a limited number 
is yet sold, and I have found that an acre of them has 
been quite as much as could be profitably grown in one 
garden. Cauliflowers require careful handling to be mar- 
keted in good shape ; after being trimmed of all surplus 
leaves, they are packed in boxes holding about 100 each, 
and are generally sold to retailers in this shape, without 
being removed from the packages. This early crop is al- 
ways sold by the first week of July, allowing plenty time to 



136 



GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 



get in second crops of Celery, etc. ; but when wanted for 
fall or winter use, its treatment is the same in all respects 
as that of Broccoli. Like all our market garden products, 
we grow only a very limited number of varieties, and these 
such as are suited to our climate here ; some of the most 
popular English sorts being perfectly worthless with us. 

Extra Early Dwarf Erfurt. — This fine sort is a dwarf 
compact growing kind, producing uniformly large heads ; 

the leaves grow more up- 
right than in any other 
variety ; consequently it can 
be planted closer, 24 inches 
by 15 inches, while most of 
the other sorts require 28 by 
18 inches. 

Extra Early Paris.— This 
well-known variety is equally 
meritorious in all respects to 
the Erfurt, except that it re- 
quires more space to grow in. 

Half Early Paris. — A use- 
ful variety for a succession 
crop. The difficulty with 
Cauliflowers for market is, that the whole crop comes in 
and must be sold in the space of two weeks, unless we 
have a succession of varieties. 

Lenormand. — A large late variety, producing well 
formed heads of superior quality. 

Autumn Giant. — A new English variety, said to be 
distinct. The leaves are long and tapering, and the habit 




Fig. 34.— EARLY ERFURT CAULI- 
FLOWER. 



VEGETABLES — CABBAGE. 137 

of the plant robust, but very upright and compact. The 
heads are large and firm and, being protected by the 
foliage, remain fit for use longer than any other sort. 



CABBAGE. — Early. — (Brassica oleracea.) 

The early varieties of Cabbage are cultivated more ex- 
tensively than any other vegetable we grow. If they 
do not occupy a larger number of acres, they certainly 
sell for a much larger amount than any other crop. They 
are also generally considered to be the most profitable of 
all crops of our gardens on congenial soils. Experience 
in a great variety of soils in the cultivation of this crop, 
shows that what is known as heavy sandy loam, overlay- 
ing a porous subsoil, is the best adapted to it. Along the 
sea shore, for about one mile inland, we have often an ad- 
mixture of oyster and other shells in the soil ; wherever 
such is found, there, with proper cultivation, Cabbage 
can be raised in the highest degree of perfection. The 
large amount of lime in the soil, produced by the gradual 
decay of the shell, is not only congenial to the growth of 
the Cabbage tribe, but is certainly destructive to the larva 
of the insect which is known to produce club-root. Id 
such soils, where in some instances Cabbages have been 
grown for fifty consecutive years, club-root is never seen. 
It is plain from this then, that lime is indispensable in the 
cultivation of this crop, and that if not naturally found in 
the soil, it must be applied. The most profitable applica- 
tion, I have found to be the flour of bone ; a detail of 
some experiments with which will be found in the Chap- 
ter on " Insects." 



138 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

The preparation of the ground for Cabbage differs in 
nothing from that for all the regular market garden crops, 
— careful plowing and subsoiling, and manuring with sta- 
ble or barn-yard manure when procurable, at the rate of 75 
tons per acre, alternating this with guano, etc., in the 
quantities named under the head of " Manures." 

The early varieties of Cabbage are planted out in spring, 
as soon as the ground is dry enough to work ; in the lati- 
tude of New York, from 15th March to 15th April. The 
distance apart is from 24 to 28 inches between the lines, 
and 16 inches between the plants in rows. At the same 
time that we plant out Cabbage or Cauliflower, between 
the lines are planted Lettuce, at 12 inches apart. To 
repay such expensive manuring and cultivation, every inch 
must be made to tell. 

The Lettuce is ready for market by the middle of May, 
and is cut off before the Cabbage is large enough to in- 
jure it. The ground is now clear of the Lettuce, and the 
whole space is occupied by the Cabbages, which are all 
sold off before the middle of July ; the greater part in 
fact by the end of June, which gives the necessary time for 
second crops. The raising of the plants is done in various 
ways, according to the differences of climate, and also of 
the market requirements in different sections. In lati- 
tudes where the thermometer never indicates 20° below 
the freezing point, Cabbage plants may be sown in the 
open border in October, and planted out at the distances 
named, on the first opening of spring ; but in our North- 
ern States, they must either be sown in hot-beds in Feb- 
ruary, (see instructions in Chapter on Hot-beds) or what 
is still better, wintered over in cold frames. For this pui- 



VEGETABLES — CABBAGE. 139 

pose the seed is sown from the 10th to the 20th of Sep- 
tember; strict attention to date is important; if too soon, 
the plants might run to seed, and if too late, they would 
be too small. It may seem to the uninitiated in such 
matters, that a few days earlier or later in sowing could 
not be material ; but all experienced market gardeners 
know it to be a fact beyond question, so that here no one 
ever begins to sow his seed before the 10th, and the great 
majority uniformly sow on the 15th. My own plan is to 
sow twice, on the 12th and on the 16th of September, and 
I should far rather risk even the 25th than the 5th. Much 
depends on the condition of the ground. It ought to be mel- 
lowed and enriched to the highest possible point by plow- 
ing and harrowing, or digging and raking, and well mixed 
with a heavy dressing of thoroughly-rotted stable manure, 
in quantity when spread sufficient to cover the surface at 
least three inches. In absence of stable manure, pure 
bone-dust, or dried blood and bone-dust, should be used, 
in the ratio of at least one ton to the acre, and, of course, 
thoroughly mixed in with soil designed for the sowing of 
the cabbage seed. Ground, thus prepared, will in any 
season I have ever seen in this vicinity give excellent 
plants, fit to " prick out " four weeks after sowing ; that 
is, if we sow on September 15th, we have plants of just 
the right size to " prick" into the frames by October 15th, 
from 500 to 600 being put under a sash 3 by 6 feet. In 
planting, it is very important with Cabbage or Cauli- 
flower, that the plant is set down to the first leaf, so that 
the stem or stalk is all under ground, for we find that if 
exposed, it will be split by the action of the frost, and will 
be injured in consequence. Instructions regarding win- 



140 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

ter treatment, will be found under the head of " Cold 
Frames." I have before stated that, from the extent to 
which Early Cabbage is cultivated, it is one of the most 
important crops grown. It is also by far the most profit- 
able, on a large scale, and no grower here, whose ground 
has not been fitted to produce it properly, has ever been 
very successful ; it requires but little labor, and is always 
readily disposed of at profitable rates. At the distance 
planted, from 12,000 to 13,000 are grown per acre, the av- 
erage price of which, at wholesale, is $50 per 1000, or 
about $600 per acre. 

We allude to varieties here with some hesitation, as it 
is unquestionable that soil or climate has much to do in 
determining the merits of varieties in different localities 
As the best that I can do in the matter, I adopt the usual 
plan I have adhered to throughout, and place first on the 
list those we find to have the greatest general merit. 

Jersey Wakefield. — This variety is said to have been 
first grown by Francis Brill, then of Jersey City, N. J., 
some thirty odd years ago, from a package of seed receiv- 
ed from England under the name of Early Wakefield, and 
has been kept in the immediate locality almost ever since. 
We have experimented with scores of varieties in that 
time, and find nothing equal to it. It is quite a shy seed- 
ing sort, and on several occasions enough seed could not 
be procured to meet the demands of the growers, and 
then it has repeatedly sold as high as $20 per lb., or quite 
five times the rate of other sorts. True, we have it quoted 
in the English seed lists as low as other varieties, but re- 
peated trials of almost every kind named in their cata- 
logues too well told us that the Early Wakefield, as we 



VEGETABLES CABBAGE. 



141 



know it, was no longer procurable in England. The merit 
of this variety consists in its large size of head, small out- 
side foliage, and its uniformity in producing a crop. The 
heads are pyramidal, having a blunted or rounded peak; 
color glaucous green. A few years after its introduction 
we found that it broke into over a dozen sub-varieties, of 

varying size of leaf and 
shape of head, and, worse 
than all, of varying earli- 
ness. No matter how care- 
fully we selected the heads 
that we used for seed, the 
same difficulty occurred. A 
few miles inland, somewhere 
near the Orange Mountain, 
we found that an old Ger- 
man was always ahead of 
us in having the first Wake- 
fields in New York market, 
and these too of a uniformity in shape that none of us 
nearer the city could produce. All inducements to get 
him to sell seed were disregarded, and year after year he 
kept the lead. Several plans were laid to circumvent him, 
such as ordering a hundred of his Cabbages with roots on. 
But old Carl was not to be caught so ; he filled the order 
to the letter, making the buyer pay roundly for the roots, 
but took the liberty of first dipping them in boiling water! 
But one day he invited a friend and countryman to see 
his wonderful Cabbages as they grew. This was a fatal 
day for Carl's monopoly, for his friend had his eyes about 
him, and observed that several of the stumps from which 




Fig. 35. — JERSEY WAKEFIELD 
CABBAGE. 



142 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

the earliest heads had been cut were marked with a stake, 
as were a few of the choicest shape, as yet uncut. The 
secret was out. Carl's success had been gaiued by per- 
sistently year after year selecting the earliest and finest 
heads; taking up the stumps from which they were cut, 
he planted them carefully, and removing the young shoots 
produced from the stumps, he treated them exactly as we 
treat cuttings of a flower, that is, by planting the slip in 
the soil, watering it freely, and shading it until it rooted. 
After these cuttings or shoots of the Cabbage were rooted, 
they were planted in the usual Cabbage-frame, covered 
with glass in winter, set out in spring, like a plant from 
the seed, and next July ripened seed. This process is too 
expensive and slow to follow for raising Cabbage seed in 
quantity, but it is now used by careful growers to produce 
pure and improved stock from which to raise seed. 

Early York. — This well-known variety is more univer- 
sally cultivated than all others ; in earliness it is quite 
equal to the Wakefield, but is inferior in size, and for 
market purposes, with us, would not sell for much more 
than half the price of the Wakefield. Heads small, 
roundish-oval; color pea-green. 

Large York. — Similar to the above, but larger in all its 
parts ; it is grown to a considerable extent in the South 
and South-west. 

Early Summer. — An entirely new variety of Early 
Cabbage, originated by Mr. Van Siclen, of Long Island, 
that is likely to supersede all others for general market 
purposes. He has now grown it for the past three years, 
but so far the seed has not been put in the market, Mr. 
Van S. being exceedingly cautious not to introduce any 



VEGETABLES CABBAGE. 143 

variety before thoroughly proving its merits. The last 
season, in company with him, I made an examination of the 
crop, and in my opinion it is, take it altogether, the best 
Early Cabbage I ever saw. It is perhaps four or five days 
later than the Wakefield, but fully one third heavier, and 
as it has small outer leaves, may be as closely planted. 
When fully matured it will withstand the hottest weather 



. ■. . . 




Fig. 36.— EARLY SUMMER CABBAGE. 

without cracking. All market gardeners know the value 
of this quality, as most of us have lost heavily from this 
cause. The seeds will probably be offered next season. 

Early Wyman. — A valuable early variety and a great 
favorite in the Boston market. Heads large and fine. 

Early Ox Heart.— This, next to the Wakefield, used 
to be our favorite market sort. It is equal to it in earli- 
ness and size, but not so uniform in heading ; for family cul- 
ture it is a valuable variety, as it is one of the best in quality. 

Early WinningStadt. — Should hardly be claimed as 
early, as it is quite three weeks later than any of the 
above, but it is an excellent sort where earliness is not an 



144 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

object, as it heads uniformly, and is of large size, often 
weighing 20 lbs. It is a very distinct variety ; head pyra- 




Fig. 3Y.— EARLY FLAT DUTCH CABBAGE. 

midal; the outer leaves spiral and spreading, which re- 
quires it to be planted wider than the early sorts. For 
this reason, together with its lateness, it is not a favorite 
in gardens where two crops are grown in one season. 

Early Flat Dutch. — A very dwarf variety with large 
round head, almost flat on the top ; it is a very excellent 
variety for a succession crop, being two or three weeks 
behind the earliest sorts. Though not more than 8000 or 
9000 can be planted on an acre, yet, as it comes in just 
when the glut is over, it rarely sells for less than $12 per 
100. Its lateness, however, prevents the getting in of a 
second crop, and it is consequently not largely grown. 



VEGETABLES — CABBAGE. 145 

CABBAGE.— Late. 

The manner of cultivating Late Cabbage is not quite 
bo expensive as tbat for Early, and as a consequence, the 
receipts for the crop are correspondingly low. In fact, it 
is often sold at prices that would not more than repay the 
price of manure and labor expended on the early crop. But 
as it can be raised with much less manure and labor, and 
on land less valuable, it is extensively grown in the neigh- 
borhood of all our large cities, rather, however, by farm- 
ers than by gardeners. The seed is sown usually in the 
early part of May, and the plants set out in July, at dis- 
tances of 3 feet between the rows, and 2 feet between the 
plants. The crop is almost exclusively worked by the cul- 
tivator or plow, one hoeing usually sufficing around the 
plants. In Long Island, N. Y., they are set out in July, 
on the ground from which early Potatoes or Peas have 
been grown. About 10 tons of stable manure per acre is 
usually put in the rows over which the plants are set. The 
price averages about $40 per 1000; 6000 or 7000 are 
grown per acre, giving an average of, perhaps, $300 to the 
acre. Late Cabbage is extensively shipped during the fall 
months, from New Tork to southern ports. The hot and 
dry summers there preventing the raising of plants from 
seed. Recently, however, some of the growers in Charles- 
ton, Savannah, Richmond, and other cities, have discov- 
ered that it is more profitable to have the plants grown 
North, and to plant them in August or September, and 
grow them themselves. Many hundred thousands of 
plants of Cabbage, Cauliflower, and Celery, are now an- 
nually sent South in August. 

The varieties of Late Cabbage are not so numerous as 



146 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

the Early ; the best for general purposes are the following : 

Large Bergen Drumhead* — The variety grown for the 
general crop, it is of the largest size, sometimes almost 
round, though more generally flattened at the top. It is 
extremely hardy, and will withstand severe frosts without 
injury. In localities where there is not more than 15 or 
20 degrees of frost, it can be left out where grown all 
winter, but in the Northern States requires the protection 
as recommended in the chapter on " Preservation of Veg- 
etables in Winter." 

Premium Flat Dutch. — A very handsome variety, dif- 
fering from the Drumhead in perfecting its head rather 
earlier in the fall, and for that reason is not quite so well 
adapted for winter use ; it is, however, much grown as an 
early fall sort. It is particularly tender, and superior in 
flavor to the Drumhead. 

Fottler's Improved Brunswick,— A second ea^y and 
late variety, used by the Boston gardeners, to succeed the 
Wyman. It produces large heads of excellent quality. 

Marblehead Mammoth Drumhead.— This is probably 
the largest variety of Cabbage in cultivation. Specimens 
have been grown weighing sixty pounds. In good soil 
and with proper culture it will average thirty pounds. 
The heads are somewhat irregular in shape, some being 
flat, while others are nearly hemispherical. It should be 
cultivated with the plants four feet apart each way. 

Mason* — Sometimes called Stone Mason, in compliment 
to its extreme hardness, I suppose. Is rather a small va* 
rietyfor a late Cabbage, but this enables it to perfect ita 
head in a short season, and for this reason it is recom- 
mended for extreme northern latitudes. 



VEGETABLES CABBAGE. 147 

Drumhead Savoy. — This variety is the largest of the 
Savoy Class, and is the sort most generally cultivated for 
market. The head is large, spherical, very solid and com- 
pact, of a yellowish-green ; and like all others of the 
Savoy varieties, is of excellent flavor, far surpassing that 
of any late Cabbage. Still, such is the force of habit, that 
the public do not purchase one Savoy for every thousand 



Fig. 38.— DRUMHEAD SAVOY CABBAGE. 

of the coarse Drumhead class, although the difference in 
quality between the two is as great as between the fox 
grape of the woods and a cultivated Delaware. 

Green Globe Savoy. — Smaller in all respects than the 
preceding, of darker green, the leaves intensely wrinkled. 
The compact and rather upright growth of the lower 
leaves allows it to be planted quite as close as early Cab- 
bage, 24 inches by 18 inches. It is the favorite of all 
the varieties for family use. 

Red Dutch. — Is used almost exclusively for pickling; 



148 GARDENING FOE PEOFIT. 

it is one of the hardiest of all Cabbages, and when pre* 
served as directed for the others, will keep later in the 
season than any other. It is slow to mature, however, 
and requires a riciier soil for its perfect development. 



CARD ON. — {Cynara cardunculw) 

A vegetable that is but little grown, and then oftener 
as a novelty than for use. It belongs to the same family 
as the Artichoke, which it much resembles. The shoots, 
after blanching, are used in soups or in salads. It is cul- 
tivated by sowing the seeds in early spring, thinly, in rows 
3 feet apart, and thinning out to 18 inches between the 
plants. The plant attains its growth in early fall, when it 
is blanched by tying the leaves together so as to form an 
erect growth, after which it is earthed up, and preserved 
exactly as we do Celery. 



CARROT.— (JDaucus Carota.) 

This may be classed more as a crop of the farm than 
of the garden, as a far larger area is grown for the food 
of horses and cattle than for culinary purposes. Yet it is 
a salable vegetable in our markets, and by no means an 
unprofitable one to grow on lands not too valuable. It is 
not necessary that the land for this crop should be highly 
enriched. I have grown on sod land, (which had been 
turned over in fall), 300 barrels per acre, without a par- 



VEGETABLES CAEEOT. 149 

'tide of manure, and three years after, the same land which 
had been brought up to our market garden standard 
of fertility, a very inferior crop ; the land being too 
rich, induced a growth of tops rather than roots. In our 
market gardens, we sow in rows 14 inches apart, thinning 
out to 3 or 4 inches between the plants ; but on farm lands 
where space is not so valuable, they should be planted 18 
or 24 inches between the rows, and worked with the culti- 
vator. For early crops, we sow at the beginning of our first 
operations in spring, in the same manner as we sow Beets, 
as soon as the ground is thoroughly dry; but for later 
crops, they may be sown any time, in this latitude, until 
the middle of June. This is one of the vegetables that re- 
quire a close watching, to see that it does not get envelop- 
ed with weeds, as in its early stage it is of comparatively 
feeble growth, and unless it is kept clean from the start, 
it is apt to get irrevocably injured. 

The usually prescribed quantity of seed per acre is 5 lbs., 
but I have always considered it safer to sow nearly double 
that quantity. In dry weather it germinates feebly, and 
not unfrequently, when seed comes up thinly, it is scorched 
off by the hot sun, and the saving of a few pounds of 
seed may entail the loss of half the crop. We prefer to 
sow all such crops by hand. 

The Carrot, like all other root crops, delights in a sandy 
loam, deeply tilled. Considerable quantities of the early 
varieties are sold, in our markets, in bunches, in a half- 
grown state, at prices equal to early Beets sold in the same 
manner. Sold in this state, they are highly profitable at 
the prices received, but only limited quantities can be dis- 
posed of. In the dry state, during fall and winter, they 



150 



GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 



range from $1.50 to $2.50 per barrel, according to quality, 
and at these prices will yield double the profit of Pota- 
toes, as a farm crop. 

The varieties in general cultivation are limited. The 
favorite variety for all purposes is the 

Long Orange. — This is equally adapted 
for garden or farm culture ; it is of large 
size, fair specimens averaging 12 inches in 
length, with a diameter of 3 
inches at the top ; color orange- 
red, varying in depth of shade 
in different soils. 

Early Horn. — An old and 

favorite sort for an early crop, 

but not large enough to be 

suitable for general culture. 

It is the variety that is sold in 

our markets bunched up in the 

green state. It matures its root 

eight or ten days earlier than 

the preceding. It is also more tender, and 

is more valued than any other for culinary 

use. It may be grown closer than the 

Long Orange, as its foliage is much shorter. 

. 39.— long Early French Horn. — Used for forcing 
orange carrot. j n no t-beds or forcing house, its smnll 
foliage and short root, not unlike the Turnip Radish in 
shape, rendering it especially suitable for growing under 
glass. It is not yet very generally grown for market, thus 
forced, but what few have been grown, were quickly sold 




Fig.40— EARL* 

HORN CARROT. 



VEGETABLES CHERVIL CELERY. 1£I 

at most profitable rates, $12 for the products of a 3x6 
sash, or about 5 cents a piece. 

White Belgian. — This is the most productive of all 
known varieties ; the lower part of the root is white, that 
growing above the ground, and exposed to the air, green. 

It is exclusively grown for stock, bearing nearly twice 
as much weight per acre as the Long Orange. Horses do 
not eat it quite so readily, however, and it is said to be 
less nutritious than the Red or Orange sorts. 



CHERVIL.— Turnip-rooted. — (Gho&ropliyllum bulbosum.) 

A vegetable of recent introduction, closely allied to the 
Parsnip, which it resembles in shape. It is of a grayish 
color ; the flesh is white and mealy, tasting something like 
the Sweet Potato. It is equally as hardy as the Parsnip, 
and in France, where it has been cultivated to a consider- 
able extent, is said to have yielded 6 tons per acre. It is 
one of the many plants that were experimented with in 
Europe as a substitute for the Potato, when it was feared 
that that root would be lost to us by disease. Its culture 
is in all repects similar to the Parsnip or Carrot ; it is en- 
tirely hardy in any latitude, and is rather improved by the 
action of the frost. It must be sown as early in spring 
as the soil is fit to work, it being slow to germinate if the 
weather becomes hot and dry. 



CELERY. — (Apium graveolens.) 

I know of no vegetable on the cultivation of which 
there is so much useless labor expended with such unsatis- 



152 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

factory results, as Celery. Almost all private cultivators 
still think it necessary to dig out trenches, from 6 to 12 
inches deep, involving great labor and expense, and giv- 
ing a very inferior crop to that planted on the level sur- 
face, in the manner practised on hundreds of acres by the 
market gardeners in the vicinity of New York. 

Our manner of treating the Celery crop, of late years, 
is very much simplified. Instead of sowing the seed in a 
hot-bed or cold frame, as formerly, it is sown in the open 
ground as soon as the ground is fit to work in spring — 
here about first week in April — on a level piece of rich 
mellow soil, that has been specially prepared by thorough 
pulverizing and mixing with short stable manure. The 
bed being fined down by raking so that it is clear of stones 
and all inequalities, lines are drawn out by the "marker" 
8 or 9 inches apart, in beds of 8 rows in a bed, rubbing 
out every 9th line for an alley, on which to walk when 
weeding, etc. The seed should be sown rather thinly, 
one ounce being sufficient for every 20 feet in length of 
such a bed. After sowing, the bed should be rolled, or 
patted down with a spade, which will give the seed suf 
ficient covering. 

As soon as the seeds of Celery begin to germinate, so 
that the rows can be traced, hoe lightly between the rows, 
and begin to pull out the weeds as soon as they can bo 
seen. One day's work, at the proper time, will be better 
than a dozen after the seed bed gets enveloped with 
weeds, besides ensuring much finer plants. 

As the plants advance in growth, the tops are shorn off, 
generally twice before the time of setting out, so as to in- 



VEGETABLES CELERY. 153 

duce a stocky growth ; plants thus treated suffer less on 
being transplanted. 

The time of planting out in the Northern States may 
run from June 15th to the end of July, and in the South- 
ern States from August 15th to the end of September. In 
this section we prefer to plant in July, as there is but 
little gained by attempting it early. In fact, I have often 
seen plants raised in hot-beds and planted out in June, 
far surpassed both in size and quality by those raised in 
the open ground and planted a month later. The great 
difficulty experienced in the Southern States is in raising 
the plants ; for if sown in March or April, as we do here, 
the high temperature and dry atmosphere either kid the 
plants outright, or so shrivel them up that they never 
start to make a free growth. There is no way of obviat- 
ing the difficulty, unless by getting the plants grown at 
the North to be sent South. But Celery plants grown at 
the North at the usual season would not answer, as they 
would become so large that they would require to be 
planted out before the end N of July, and in most of the 
Southern States, if planted then, they could not stand the 
long continued high temperature and dry atmosphere of 
August and September. For Celery plants, grown at the 
North for Southern planting, the seed should not be sown 
before the end of May, which would delay their fitness to 
plant until August or September; this would no doubt 
answer well, as the genial growing weather of October, 
November, and December, in many parts of the South, 
would be well adapted to their growth. It is doubtful 
if this special growing of plants is likely to be done, and 
our friends at the South must submit to paying us for our 



154 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

Celery already grown, just as we must submit to have the 
cream of our profits taken olf by their early supply of 
spring vegetables. It is a geographical condition of cul- 
ture that both sections must accept. In almost all the 
early vegetables the first supplies come from southern 
gardens, thus anticipating our crops by some weeks ; 
while Celery is one of the very few things with which 
we can compete with our southern friends in their own 
markets. Celery is a plant requiring a cool, moist 
atmosphere, and it is nonsense to attempt to grow it early, 
in our hot and dry climate ; and even when grown, it is 
not a vegetable that is ever very palatable until cool 
weather. This our market experience well proves, for al- 
though we always have a few bunches exposed for sale in 
August and September, there is not one root sold then for 
a thousand that are sold in October and November. Cel- 
ery is always grown as a " second crop " by us, that is, it 
follows after the spring crop of Beets, Onions, Cabbage, 
Cauliflower, or Peas, which are cleared off and marketed, 
at latest, by the middle of July ; the ground is then thor- 
oughly plowed and harrowed. No additional manure is 
used, as enough remains in the ground, from the heavy 
coat it has received in the spring, to carry through the 
crop of Celery. After the ground has been nicely pre- 
pared, lines are struck out on the level surface, 3 feet 
apart, and the plants set G inches apart in the rows. If 
the weather is dry at the time of planting, great care 
should be taken that the roots are properly "finned." 
Our custom is, to turn back on the row, and press by the 
side of each plant gently with the foot. This compacts 
the soil and partially excludes the air from the root until 



VEGETABLES CELERY. 



155 



new rootlets are formed, which will usually be in forty- 
eight hours, after which all danger is over. This practice 
of pressing the soil closely around the roots is essential in 
planting of all kinds, and millions of plants are annually 
destroyed by its omission. After the planting of the Cel- 
ery is completed, nothing further is to be done for six or 
seven weeks, except running through between the rows 
with the cultivator or hoe, and freeing the plants of weeds 
until they get strong enough to crowd them down. This 
will bring us to about the middle of August, by which 




Fig. 41.— CELERY AFTER "HANDLING." 

time we usually have that moist and cool atmosphere es- 
sential to the growth of Celery. Then we begin the " earth- 
ing up," necessary for blanching or whitening that which 
is wanted for use during the months of September, Octo- 
ber, and November. The first operation is that of " hand- 
ling," as we term it, that is, after the soil has been drawn 
up against the plant with the hoe, it is further drawn close 
around each plant by the hand, firm enough to keep the 
leaves in an upright position and prevent them from 
spreading, which will leave them as shown in fig. 41. 



156 



GARDENING FOK PROFIT. 



This being done, more soil is drawn against the row, (either 
by the plow or hoe, as circumstances require), so as to 
keep the plant in this upright position. , The blanching 
j)i*ocess must, however, be finished by the spade, which is 
done by digging the soil from between the rows and 
banking it up clear to the top on each side of the row of 
Celery, as in fig. 42 Three feet is ample distance be- 
tween the dwarf varieties, but when " Seymour's Superb," 




Fi°\ 42.— CELERY EARTHED UP. 



" Giant," or other large sorts are used, the width between 
the rows must be at least 4\ or 5 feet, which entails much 
more labor and loss of ground. For the past eight years 
I have grown none but the dwarf varieties, and have saved 
in consequence at least one-half in labor, and one-third in 
ground, while the average price per root in market has 
been always equal and occasionally higher than for the 
tall growing sorts. 

My neighbors around me have at last got their eyes 
opened to the v^lue of the dwarf sorts, and I think that 
a few years more will suffice to throw the large and coarse- 



VEGETABLES CELERY. 157 

flavored sorts, such as " Seymour's Superb," and " Giant," 
out of our markets. 

The preparation of the soil and planting of Celery for 
winter use, is the same in all repects, except that, what is 
intended for winter need never be " banked up " with the 
spade. It merely requires to be put through the handling 
process, to put it in a compact and upright position pre- 
paratory to being stowed away in winter quarters. This 
should not be done before the middle of September, or 
just long enough before the Celery is dug up, to keep it 
in the upright position. 

We have, however, another method which we have 
found to answer very well for the late crop, and it is one 
by which more roots can be grown on the same space 
and with less labor than by any other. It is simply to 
plant the Celery 1 foot apart, each way, nothing farther be- 
ing required after planting, except twice or thrice hoeing 
to clear the crop of weeds until it grows enough to cover 
the ground. No handling or earthing up is required by 
this method, for, as the plants struggle for light, they nat- 
urally assume an upright position, the leaves all assuming 
the perpendicular instead of the horizontal, which is the 
condition essential before being put in winter quarters. 
This method is not quite so general with us as planting in 
rows, and it is perhaps better adapted for private gardens 
than for market ; as the plant is more excluded from the 
air, the root hardly attains as much thickness as by the 
other plan. 

Our manner of preserving it during winter is now very 
simple, but as the knowledge of the process is yet quite 
local, being confined almost exclusively to the Jersey 



158 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

market gardeners, I will endeavor to put it plain enough, 
so that my readers " may go and do likewise." In this 
locality we begin to dig up that which we intend for win- 
ter use about the end of October, and continue the work 
(always on dry days) until the 20th or 25th of November 
which is as late as we dare risk it out for fear of frost 
Let it be understood that Celery will stand quite a sharp 
frost, say 10 or even 15 degrees, while 20 or 25 degrees 
will destroy it. Hence experience has taught us, that the 
sharp frosts that we usually have during the early part of 
November, rarely hurt it, though often causing it to droop 
flat on the ground, until thawed out by the sun. It must, 
however, never be touched when in the frozen state, or it 
is almost certain to decay. The ground in which it is 
placed for winter use should be as dry as possible, or if 
not dry, so arranged that no wat^r will remain in the 
trench. The trench should be dug as narrow as possible, 
not more than 10 or 12 inches wide, and of the depth ex- 
actly of the hight of the Celery ; that is, if the plant of 
the Celery be 2 feet in length, the depth of the drain or 
trench should be 2 feet also. The Celery is now placed in 
the trench as near perpendicular as possible, so as to fill it 
up entirely, its green tops being on a level with the top 
of the trench. Figure 43 represents a section across a 
trench filled with Celery in the manner just described. 
No earth whatever is puf, to the roots other than what 
may adhere to them after being dug up. It being closely 
packed together, there is moisture enough always at the 
bottom of the trench to keep this plant, at the cool season 
of the year, from wilting. That which is put in trenches 
about the 25th of October, is usually ready to be taken 



VEGETABLES CELERY. 



159 



up for use about the 1st of December, that a couple of 
weeks later, by 1st January, and the last (which we try 
always to defer to 15th or 20th November) may be used 
during the winter and until the 1st of April. For the 
first lot, no covering is required, but that for use during 
the winter months, must be gradually covered up, from the 
middle of December, on until 1st of January, when it will 
require at least a foot of covering of some light, dry ma- 
terial — hay, straw, or leaves — the latter perhaps the best 




■r 

Fig. 43.— CELERY STORED FOR WINTER. 

I have said the covering up should be gradual. This is 
very important, for if the full weight of covering is put on 
at once, it prevents the passing off of the heat generated by 
the closely packed mass of Celery, and in consequence it 
to some extent " heats," and decay takes place. Covered 
up in this manner, it can be got out with ease, during the 
coldest weather in winter, and with perfect safety. These 
dates of operations, like all others named throughout, are 
for this latitude ; the cultivator must use his judgment 
carefully in this matter, to suit the section in which he is 
located. 



160 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

For market gardeners and others who have large quan- 
tities this is the best method of storing ; but for smaller 
growers, either for sale or for private use, quite a quantity 
may be preserved in any cellar where there is no furnace 
or other fire heat. When a few hundred roots only are 
to be stored it can be placed in narrow boxes, say 9 inches 
wide, 4 or 6 feet in length, and of a depth a little less than 
the height of the Celery. A few inches of sand or soil is 
placed on the bottom, and the Celery is packed in the box 
upright, the roots being placed on the sand at the bottom ; 
the Celery must be packed in as tight as possible, but 
without bruising. Boxes thus packed and stood on the cool 
floor of the cellar, if put away in November, will be "blanch- 
ed " fit for use during January, February, and March. If 
put in sooner than November it will blanch earlier, and if 
stored later it will keep later. If larger quantities are to 
be kept in the cellar, the cheapest practicable way to do 
so is to begin at one side next the Avail, furthest from the en- 
trance, and erect boards across the cellar, 9 inches from 
the wall, and of a hight a little less than the length of 
the Celery — that is, if the Celery is 24 inches in length, 
the boarding may be 18 or 20 inches high. In this nar- 
row division the Celery is packed in upright, as above de- 
scribed for packing in boxes. As soon as the first tier is 
filled, erect another board trench or division at 9 inches 
distant from the first, and so on until the whole space re- 
quired is filled up. It will be understood that no soil or 
sand is packed between the stalks of Celery, only two or 
three inches being strewn on the floor, on which the roots 
are placed. A cellar or root-house so packed, 20 by 20 
feet, will hold from 3,000 to 5,000 roots of Celery, accord- 



VEGETABLES CELERY. lCl 

ing to their size. Care must be taken not to get the board 
partitions forming the trenches or divisions between the 
tiers of Celery more than 9 or 10 inches apart, for if at 
much greater distance the stems and leaves would be in 
too large masses and would generate heat and rot. 

As the cellar or root-house is usually a damp and dark 
apartment there will generally be no necessity to water 
the Celery after it is packed. Every means of ventilation 
should be used, even in cold weather, for it must always 
be borne in mind that Celery is a vegetable that will stand 
quite a severe frost without injury, so if the tempera- 
ture of the cellar falls 5 or 6 decrees below the freezinsr 
point, no injury will be done. When Celery or other veg- 
etables are packed away for preservation in cellars or in 
the open field, it is indispensable that no water be allowed 
to lodge in the pit or trench; so that in the event of using 
a cellar or root-house for this purpose, a matter of first 
importance is thorough drainage, in soils where drainage 
is necessary. 

Regarding the profits of this crop I can speak from a 
very extensive experience in its culture, having cultivated 
an average of ten acres for the past eighteen years. For 
many years, in the early part of that time, it was, by no 
means, what we would now call a profitable crop. By 
persisting in raising the large growing sorts, and the awk* 
ward and expensive mode we had then of working it, we 
were satisfied if it gave us a profit of $50 or $75 per acre. 
But for the last six or eight years, by adopting the flat 
culture, and the drain or trench system for winter storage, 
it has done much better, and is now a very profitable 
" second crop," averaging a clear profit of $300 per acre, 



162 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

though it rarely brings over $3 per 100 roots. No doubt, 
in many parts of the country, it would be much more prof- 
itable than in the crowded markets of New York. It is 
shipped from here in all directions ; to Philadelphia (large- 
ly), Baltimore and Washington, (South), and to New- 
port, Providence, Hartford and New Haven, (East). It is 
a bulky and expensive article to ship, and the dealer must 
realize more than double on the purchase, or it will not 
pay his risk. It must thus cost the consumer, in these 
towns to which we send it, 8 or 10 cents a head, a price at 
which it would pay a clear profit of $1000, or 81500 per 
acre. 

If the awkward and laborious systems of cultivation 
still persisted in for the growing of Celery, is a mistake, the 
continued use of the tall growing and coarse varieties, 
we believe to be even a far greater one. The kinds that 
are offered in European catalogues are many, but in the 
whole list there are but few that are desirable for the 
market gardener or for private gardens. The climate of 
England is much more favorable to the growth of Celery 
than that of our country, and every year new varieties 
are offered there, of which only now and then one proves 
of permanent value, but with the majority, the differences 
are mainly in the name. The following are all the kinds 
that we have found especially valuable. 

Henderson's Dwarf White.— After cultivating this for 
several years we rank it as decidedly one of our very best 
varieties; under good cultivation it attains a hight of 
2 feet, and a circumference of 12 inches ; it is perfectly 
solid, the stalks half round, the leaves and stems being 
rather light green. When blanched, it is a yellowish- 



VEGETABLES CELERY. 163 

white, crisp, tender, and of a most agreeable nutty flavor. 
The great advantage of this, and other dwarf sorts, over 
the large kinds, is, that nearly every part of the plant is 
fit to eat when blanched ; for instance if in the dwarf va- 
rieties the length is only 2 feet, and in large sorts 3 feet, 
the extra length of the large sort is unfit for use, being 
usually only an elongation of the outer leaves, the heart 
or edible part rarely rising more than 18 znches in the 
large sorts, while the dwarf sorts may be said to be all 
heart. This variety, for fall use, is planted 3 feet be- 
tween the rows, by 6 inches between the plants, or nearly 
27,000 roots per acre. For winter use, when it does not 
require to be " banked," we plant 2 feet between rows, 
and 6 inches between plants, or about 40,000 roots per acre. 

Sandringham Dwarf White. — An improvement on 
the variety above named, being much larger in all its 
parts. It is simply a stock selected from the other, being 
identical with it in all respects except in size. 

Boston Market* — A variety very similar to the above, 
but rather more robust, though a dwarf variety; the leaves 
are darker green, the stalks when blanched nearly white ; 
it is solid, crisp, and tender ; an excellent variety. 

Hood's Dwarf Red, — A variety similar in all respects 
to the "Dwarf White," except in color of the stalks, 
which are of a rosy crimson. Although the flavor of the 
red varieties of Celery is acknowledged to be superior -to 
the white, and the appearance, when blanched, certainly 
far richer, yet, for some unexplained reason, they do not 
so readily sell in our markets. In the London markets, 
about equal quantities of each are sold. 

Seymour's Superb. — The best of the large-growing 



164 



GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 



sorts, attaining a hight, under good culture, of 3 feet. It 
should never be planted closer than 4 feet between the 
rows, or it cannot be worked properly. For southern sec- 
tions of the country, this variety is more suitable than the 
dwarfs, as it grows freer in a hot and dry atmosphere. 



CELERIAC, OR TURNIP-ROOTED CELERY. 

(Apium graveolens. Var.) 

Is grown from 
seeds sown in the 
same manner, and 
planted out at the 
same seasons as 
directed for Cel- 
ery ; but as it re- 
quires but a slight 
earthing up, it is 
planted closer 
than ordinaryCel- 
ery, 18 inches be- 
tween the rows 
and 6 inches be- 
tween the plants. 
It is preserved for 
winter use in shal- 
low trenches, and 




covered 



up, as 



Fig. 44.— CELERIAC. 



the season ad- 
vances, as direct- 
ed for Celery. It 



VEGETABLES CHIVES CORN SALAD CRESS. 165 

is as yet grown to but a limited extent here, being used 
only by the French and Germans. The Turnip-like root 
is cooked, or it is sliced and used with vinegar, making: a 
most excellent salad. 



CHIVES. — (Allium Sc7mnoprasum.) 

A small bulbous-rooted plant of the Onion tribe, en« 
tirely hardy and of the easiest culture, as it will grow on 
almost any soil for many years without renewal. It ia 
propagated by division of the root, and may be planted at 
9 or 10 inches apart ; the leaves are the parts used, which 
may be repeatedly shorn off during the early summer 
months. They are sometimes used in soups, but more 
generally in the raw state. 



CORN SALAD, OR FETTICUS.HJ^fo olitoria.) 
A vegetable used as a salad, and sold to a consider 
able extent in our markets. It is sown on the first open- 
ing of spring, in rows 1 foot apart, and is fit for use in six 
or eight weeks from time of sowing. If wanted to come 
in early in spring, it is sown in September, covered up 
with straw or hay, as soon as cold weather sets in, and is 
wintered over exactly as Spinach. The covering is re- 
moved in March or April when it starts to grow, and ia 
one of our first green vegetables in spring. 



CRESS, OR PEPPER GRASS— (Lepidium sativum.) 
Another early spring vegetable, used as a salad, and of 
easy culture. It is sown in early spring in rows 1 foot 



166 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

apart; as h runs quickly to seed, succession sowings 
should be made every eight or ten days. There are sev 
eral varieties, but the kind in general use is the Curled, 
which answers the purpose of garnishing as well as fot 
salads. 



CRESS— WATER.— (Nasturtium officinale.) 

This is a well-known hardy perennial aquatic plant, 
growing abundantly along the margins of running streams, 
ditches, and ponds, and sold in immense quantities in our 
markets in spring. Where it does not grow naturally, it 
is easily introduced by planting along the margins of ponds 
or streams, where it quickly increases, both by spreading of 
the root and by seeding. Many a farmer, in the vicinity 
of New York, realizes more profit from the Water Cress- 
es, cut from the margin of a brook running through his 
farm, in two or three weeks in spring, than from his 
"whole year's hard labor in growing Corn, Hay, or Potatoes. 

Water Cress can be best cultivated in places where the 
streams run through a level tract. Supposing the stream 
to be a foot deep on an average and six or eight feet wide, 
running through a meadow, a good plan for cultivation is 
to make excavations laterally — say in beds 5 feet wide 
(with alleys between 5 feet), to a depth of about 8 inches, 
or deep enough to be flooded by the stream when it is of 
average height or when shallow, by damming it up so as 
to flood the beds. 

The advantage of having the beds excavated at right" 
angles to the stream rather than parallel with it is, that in 



VEGETABLES — CRESS. 167 

the event of freshets the crop is less liable to be washed 
away. The length and number of the beds excavated, 
must, of course, be determined by circumstances. Water- 
cress seeds germinate freely in earth when kept saturated; 
hence the beds when properly levelled and pulverized by 
digging and raking should be slightly flooded — enough to 
saturate the soil only until the seeds germinate — for, of 
course, if the beds were filled up with water the seeds 
would be washed off. After the seedlings have started so 
as to show green, the water may be gradually let on as 
they develop. Probably the best time of sowing the seed 
would be, for the latitude of ~New York, about the middle 
of August. When Water Cress is found growing natur- 
ally the beds can be made by setting the plants six or 
twelve inches apart each way. When the cultivation is 
once fairly begun there is no difficulty about forming new 
beds, as few plants grow more rapidly when proper con- 
ditions are present. If the crop is planted or sown the 
middle of August, it will have spread all over the beds by 
November. The streams being full in autumn the beds 
will be fully flooded so as to protect the plants during 
winter. It is always found wild growing best in clear, 
shallow, slowly-running water with a sandy or gravelly 
bottom ; and as nature is always the surest guide to 
successful cultivation, the nearer it can be imitated the 
better the success. I find it is one of the plants the cul- 
ture of which is not very easy to give by writing, as so 
much must be determined by the circumstances of locality. 
Wherever a suitable stream is at command the experiment 
of growing Water Cress is worth trial, especially 
when we know that it, in many cases, pays for a given 



1G8 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

area six or eight times more than any other vegetable cul- 
tivated, provided it can be sold in the markets of New 
York or Philadelphia. 

It is usually sold in baskets containing about 3 quarts, 
which sell, when first in market, at $1 each ; 200 or 300 
such are carried in an ordinary wagon, so that from a sin- 
gle load of this simple vegetable, $200 to $300 are realiz- 
ed. The "Water Cress has a particularly pleasant pungent 
taste, agreeable to most people in early spring. 

It is said, that when Sir Joseph Banks first arrived in 
England after his voyage around the world, among the 
first things he asked for were Water Cresses, well know- 
ing their value as a purifier of the blood ; and that he af- 
terwards presented one of the largest Water Cress grow- 
ers for the London market a Banksian Medal, for energy 
shown in the business, believing that while he had benefit- 
ed himself, he had benefited the community. I have no 
doubt whatever, that, in situations where irrigation could 
be used at pleasure, and regular plantations made as for 
Cranberries, that, grown in this way, — -judging from the 
enormous price they sell at, picked up as they are in the 
present hap-hazard way — at present prices, an acre would 
sell for $4000 or $5000. 



C0LEW0RT, OR C0LLARDS — (Brassica oleracea.) 
Collards, as grown in this country, are nothing more than 
sowings of any early variety of Cabbage, in rows about 
one foot apart, which are cut off for use when 6 or 8 



VEGETABLES CORN. 169 

inches high. Spring sowings may be made every two 
weeks from April to June ; and in fall from September, as 
late as the season will admit. I have never seen them 
sold in our markets. 



CORN.— {Zea Mays.) 

The varieties known as " Sweet," are the sorts most 
cultivated for culinary use in the green state. It may be 
either sown in rows 4| feet apart, and the seeds planted at 
8 or 9 inches in the rows, or planted in hills at distances 
of 3 or 4 feet each way, according to the variety grown 
or the richness of the soil in which it is planted. The 
taller the variety, or richer the soil, the greater should be 
the distance apart. The soil best suited for Corn, for an 
early crop, is a well enriched sandy loam. The planting 
should never be done until the weather is settled and 
warm, as heat is indispensable to the healthy growth of 
Corn. We make our first plantings, in this vicinity, about 
the middle of May, and continue succession plantings ev- 
ery two or three weeks until the first week in July, which 
date is the latest at which we can plant and be sure of a crop 
of " roasting ears." In more southerly latitudes, planting 
is begun a month earlier, and continued a month later. 
The crop is not profitable enough for the market garden, 
but the farmers realize double the price for Sweet Corn 
when sold in the green state in our markets, that they do 
for ripe Corn, besides, as the ground can be cleared when 
thus sold in August, it can be used afterwards for Turnips. 

About a dozen years ago I came into possession, about 
the 1st of May, of a four-acre plot that had lain for many 



170 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

» 

years in sod. It was then too late to be able to break it 
up for planting any of the finer kinds of vegetables ; so I 
decided to plant it with Sweet Corn. Accordingly, I had 
the sod plowed over flat in such a manner as would best 
rot it. I was careful to have the furrows straight, and at 
every five feet, where they lapped together, I dropped 
Sweet Corn at four or five inches apart, so that when it 
started to grow it stood in regular lines five feet distant. 
The Corn was planted about May 20th, and hoed around 
the line as it grew, the space between being run over by 
the harrow cultivator. By the middle of June, from the 
action of the cultivator, the space between the rows of 
Corn was in fine friable condition, and Celery was planted 
in double rows, ten inches apart. The shade given by 
the Corn was of no injury to the Celery at this early stage 
of its growth, and as the Corn crop was sold, and the 
stalks were cleared off by the middle of August, the 
growth of the Celery was not in the slightest impaired. 
The whole transaction was quite satisfactory; the Corn 
crop sold (green) for about $600, or $150 per acre. The 
Celery, at about $400 per acre, which was exceedingly 
low, not much more than one cent per root for every root 
planted. In some subsequent years, the price would have 
trebled that for the same quantity. ISTo fertilizer was used, 
except a slight sprinkling of bone-dust for the Celery. A 
profit of from $50 to $100 is said to be realized per acre 
from Sweet Corn. The best known varieties are : 

Early Narragansctt. — This is one of the earliest varie- 
ties. The ears are quite small, seldom being more than five 
inches in length ; eight or ten rowed. It is tender and of 
fine flavor, and is recommended as a first early variety. 



VEGETABLES CORN. 171 

Early Darling or Eight-rowed.— Early, of good size, 
and under good cultivation, averages three ears on 
each stalk. It is tender and sweet. As it is rather dwarf 
growing, it need never be planted more than 3 feet apart. 

Dwarf Early Sugar. — This variety rarely grows more 
than 4 or 5 feet in hight, suckering up from the main 
stem, often five or six shoots — which bear an average of 
two ears each ; these, however, are small, not more than 
5 or 6 inches in length, and quite slender. It is too small 
for market purposes, but is the most valuable variety 
grown for family use, being early, tender, sweet, and 
productive. We prefer to grow this variety in rows 3 
feet apart, and 1 foot between the plants. 

Crosby's Early Sugar. — A variety highly esteemed in 
the Boston Market. Ears rather short ; from twelve to six- 
teen rows ; productive and of good quality. 

Mammoth Sweet. — A late variety, and one of the largest. 
Ears twelve to sixteen rowed ; productive and fine flavored. 

Stowell's Evergreen. — Also a late variety, having the 
peculiarity of remaining longer in the green state than 
any other sort ; on this account it is very popular. 

Asylum Sugar. — A large late variety of tall growth, 
used to succeed the earlier sorts ; it is productive, and has 
every desirable quality except earliness. Should be 
planted in hills 4 feet by 3. 

Most persons who raise Sweet Corn for market have a 
favorite variety, or rather strain of their own. By care- 
fully selecting for seed each year those ears that have de- 
sirable peculiarities most strongly marked, a strain is soon 
established especially suited to the locality. Of course 
great care must be taken to prevent contamination by 



172 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

pollen from other varieties of Sweet Corn as well as by that 
of Field Corn. The fodder from a crop of Sweet Com is 
an important item to the farmers who raise it, and this 
has not been taken into account in the above estimate of 
profits. As the corn is picked green, the stalks still con- 
tain much nutriment, and if well cured, are about as val- 
uable as the same weight of hay. 



CUCUMBER.— {Cucumis sativus.) 

The growing of the Cucumber out-of-doors is, in most 
places, attended with a great deal of annoyance and 
loss, occasioned by the attacks of the " Striped Bug." 
When the seed is sown in the open ground, repeated sow- 
ings are often utterly destroyed by this pest, despite of 
all remedies. To avoid this, and at the same time to 
forward the crop at least a week, we have long adopted 
the following method, with the greatest success. About 
the middle of May, (for this section), we cut from a pas- 
ture lot, sods from 2 to 3 inches thick, these are placed with 
the grassy side down, either on the benches of our forcing 
house, in an exhausted hot-bed, or inside of a cold frame ; 
at that season of the year any one of these will do as 
well as another. The sods being fitted together neatly 
so that all crevices are filled up ; they are then cut into 
Bquares about 3 or 4 inches in length and breadth ; on each 
of these are planted 2 or 3 seeds of Cucumber, and ovei 
the whole is sifted about half an inch of covering of some 
light rich mold. They are then sprinkled thoroughly from 



VEGETABLES— CUCUMBBB. 173 

a Rose Watering-pot, and the sashes put on, and kept close 
until the seeds begin to germinate, which will be in three 
or four days. As soon as they are up, the sashes must be 
raised to admit air, else the sun's rays, acting on the glass, 
would raise the temperature too high ; at that season of 
the year the sashes, as a rule, may be tilted up at 8 or 9 
o'clock in the morning, and shut down by 3 or 4 o'clock 
in the afternoon. By the time the Cucumber plants have 
attained two or three of their rough leaves, which will be 
in about three weeks from the time of sowing, they are 
planted out in the open ground in hills 3 feet apart each 
way. The hills should have been previously prepared, by 
mixing thoroughly with the soil in each, a shovelful of 
well-rotted manure. 

It is always better to plant in the afternoon, rather than 
during the early part of the day, as the coolness and mois- 
ture at night, enable the plants to recuperate from the ef- 
fects of removal. If the weather is hot and dry, it is safer 
to give each hill a thorough watering once, immediately 
after planting. I have recommended sods in preference to 
flower-pots for starting the Cucumbers, inasmuch as they 
are not only procurable in all places, but our experience 
:s, irhat the sod is even better than the flower-pot ; it better 
retains moisture, and there is a freshness about sod in 
which the roots of all plants love to revel, and which no 
composts we can prepare can ever equal. It will be seen 
that the expense of growing Cucumbers, in this manner, is 
considerable; to grow enough for an acre — about 5000 
hills — it will require the use of at least 20, 3 x 6 sashes, and 
the preparation of the sod, and attention in airing, etc., 
until they are fit to plant, will involve ten times more ex- 



174 GARDENING FOR PROEIT. 

pense than simply sowing the seed in the hills ; but all 
such expenditures are well returned, for it is safe to say, 
that the profits would always be at least three times more 
by this plan than by the other. The average receipts are 
^750 per acre ; working expenses probably $250, and the 
crop is off in time for Turnips or Spinach as a second crop. 

The Cucumber is a vegetable perhaps better fitted than 
any other for southern market gardeners. There is no 
doubt, that by the forwarding process above described, it 
could be got in marketable condition in the neighborhood 
of Charleston or Savannah, at least a month before it 
could in New York, and as it is one of the easiest things 
we have to ship, a profitable business could be made of 
growing it to send North. The profits on an acre of Cu- 
cumbers, grown by this method in Charleston, and sold in 
New York in June, would, I think, exceed the average 
profits of fifty acres of Cotton. 

Cucumbers are also extensively grown for pickling; 
hundreds of acres being used for this purpose in the vi- 
cinity of New York, especially in "Westchester County. 
Sod or stubble land, plowed in early fall, and again turned 
over twice or thrice in spring, is the condition of soil usu- 
ally chosen. The ground is marked out as for Corn, 4 
feet each way, and a good shovelful of well-rotted manure, 
dug in at the angle which forms the hill ; the seed is sown — 
about a dozen in each hill — usually about the 20th of June, 
Out equally good crops can be obtained by sowings made 
as late as the middle of July. The average price of late 
years has been $1.50 per 1000, and the number grown per 
acre on properly cultivated lands, is 150,000, which is $225 
gross receipts per acre. The expense of raising are said 




VEGETABLES CUCUMBER. 175 

to be about one-half These profits would not satisfy the 
market gardener on his few valuable acres near the city, 
but, no doubt, are remunerative enough to the farmers, 
with large quantities of cheap land. 

The varieties are numerous, and embrace many very 
well marked kinds. The large growing kinds that attain 
2 feet or more in length, have never become favorites in 
our American markets. 

White Spilled. — Belongs to the short growing section, 

is of medium size, from 6 
to 8 inches in length and 
2 to 3 inches in diameter ; 
Fig. 45.— white-spined cucumber, it is a very handsome va- 
riety, deep green, flesh crisp, and of fine flavor. The va- 
riety almost exclusively grown for market in ISTew York. 

Early Russian. — This is the earliest variety, coming 
into use about ten days before the Early Cluster, which 
it resembles in some respects, but is smaller and shorter. 
The fruit is generally produced in pairs, and is from three 
to four inches long, hardy, productive, and well flavored. 
One of the best varieties for private gardens. 

Early Frame. — A very handsome small-growing vari- 
ety, rarely exceeding 5 inches in length, and has fewer 
spines than the preceding. It is often a question whether 
this or the White Spined is more desirable, so that of late 
years we have grown about an equal quantity of each for 
forcing or forwarding under glass. 

Early Cluster. — A much esteemed early variety, grow- 
ing in clusters and extremely productive; its color is blue- 
ish-oreen, shading: lio-hter at the extremities. 

Long Green Prickly. — This is a large-sized variety, 



176 GARDENING FOR PKOFIT. 

growing about a foot in length, and is somewhat later 
than the White Spine. It is a good variety for the table, 
and makes an excellent pickle if gathered while young. 
Fruit dark green, firm and crisp. 

Small Gherkin, or Burr. — This variety, used exclu- 
sively for pickling, is a species distinct from the com- 
mon Cucumber ; it is very small, length from 2 to 3 inches ; 
a strong growing sort, and should be planted 5 feet apart. 



EGG PLANT. — {Solanum Melongena.) 

The cultivation of the Egg Plant, from its extreme ten- 
derness, is, in its early stage, attended perhaps with more 
trouble than any vegetable of our gardens. A native of 
Tropical America, it at all times requires a high tempera- 
ture ; for this reason, in this latitude, the seeds had better 
not be sown in the hot-bed until first week in April, and 
rfven then a steady bottom heat is necessary to a healthy 
development, and there should be warm covering at night 
over the sashes. I have always found that in tender 
plants of this kind, there was nothing gained by starting 
early, even though by great care the plants are carried 
through the cold season. By the time they can be planted 
in the open ground, about June first, those started first 
of March, would be no larger than those started first of 
April, besides being harder both in roots and leaves, in 
which condition they are far inferior to the younger plants 
that have been raised with less than half the labor. 

A correspondent from an inland town writes that, for 
the first time, the Egg Plant has been grown in his section 



VEGETABLES — EGG PLANT. 177 

this season, and that it has been a wonder to the good 
people of that place, and they wish for more light on its 
culture and uses. This gentleman says that the earliest 
and best fruit is produced on the plants last set out (June 
10th), and seems to wonder that such should be the case. 
His experience here teaches a forcible lesson on the sub- 
ject that we so often dwell upon, cautioning against the 
sowing or planting of tender kinds, such as Tomato, Egg 
Plant, Cucumber, or Melon, too early. In the latitude of 
New York, Egg Plants should never be sown in hot-beds 
sooner than April 20th, the temperature of the hot-bed to 
be not less than 70° at night. The plant at no season of 
its growth should be kept for any length of time at a 
lower average temperature than 70°, and for this reason : 
The experiment of my correspondent demonstrated that his 
plants, planted in open air on May 19th, were inferior to 
those set out on June 10th. Egg Plants, when they first 
germinate, are very sensitive to damp and to being chilled, 
and the amateur often fails to raise them, even with his 
hot-bed ; but as they are now grown in all large towns, 
those wishing to try them, and not having the proper 
means of raising the plants, can procure them at trifling 
expense from the market gardeners or florists of their 
nearest town. The soil in which they fruit best is a light, 
sandy loam, well enriched by decayed stable manure. 

The Egg fruit is fit for use from the time it is the size 
of a turkey's egg until it is full grown, say five inches in 
diameter ; but it is not so good when the seeds become 
hard and indicate an appearance of ripening. 

The soil in which Egg Plants are to be grown can 
hardly be too rich, for it is a plant that will generally re- 



178 



GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 



pay good treatment. They are planted from 2 to 3 feet 
apart, according to the degree of richness of soil ; in the 
fertile market gardens never less than 3 feet. Although 
their sale is comparatively limited, yet from the difficul- 
ties often experienced in raising the plants, all that are 
offered, are sold at good prices ; the average is about $1 
per dozen, each plant producing six to nine full-sized fruit. 
It is more important with this vegetable to select the 
proper variety for growing, than with any other that I 
know ; for that reason we are chary of touching any other 
sort for market purposes than the 
New York Improved. — This is our leading market 




Fig. 46. — N. T. IMPROVED 
EGG PLANT. 




Fi£. 47.— BLACK PEKIN EGG PLANT. 



variety and is readily distinguishable from either the 
" Large Round" or "Long Purple" varieties, in the 
plant being more robust in all its parts, the leaves and 
stems also being thickly studded with spines, which are 
not found to any extent on the other varieties. A pro- 
ductive and excellent variety. 

Long Purple. — Different in shape from the foregoing; 
sometimes deep purple, and again pale, with white or 
yellowish stripes. Early, productive, and of easy culture. 



VEGETABLES ENDIVE. 179 

Black Fekin. — A new variety of superior excellence ; 
fruit, glossy, deep purple, almost black, of globular 
form and very solid. It is earlier and more productive 
than the New York Improved, and much superior in 
flavor. 

Scarlet-fruited Egg Plant.— This is more grown as a 
curious ornamental plant than for culinary use, the fruit is 
about the size and shape of a duck egg^ of beautiful scarlet. 

White-fruited Egg Plant. — Similar in growth to the 
scarlet, but the fruit is larger, and of an ivory whiteness. 
It is good when cooked, but much less productive, and like 
the Scarlet, is grown more for curiosity and ornament. 



ENDIVE. — {Gichorium Endima.) 

The cultivation of this vegetable for market purposes is 
not yet extensive, it being used by few except our Ger- 
man and French population. It is, however, offered now 
by the wagon load, where a few years ago a few basket- 
fuls would have supplied all the demand. Like all other 
vegetables that are grown in limited quantities, it com- 
mands a high price, and the few who do raise it find it 
very profitable. 

Like Lettuce, it may be sown at any time from early 
spring until August, and perfect its crop the season of 
sowing. As it is used almost exclusively in the fall 
months, the main sowings are made in June and July, 
from which plantations are formed, at 1 foot apart each 
way, in August and September. It requires no special 



180 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

soil or manure, and after planting, it is kept clear of 
weeds by hoeing and weeding, until the plant has attained 
its full size, when the process of blanching begins ; for it is 
never used except when blanched, as it is harsh and bit- 
ter in the green state. Blanching is effected by gath- 
ering up the leaves, and tying them up by their tips in a 
conical form, with bass matting. This excludes the light 
and air from the inner leaves, which in the course of three 
to six weeks, according to the temperature at the time, 
become blanched. 

Another method is much simpler and quicker, and is the 
one mostly practised by those who grow Endive for mar- 
ket ; it consists simply in covering up the plants as they 
grow, with slates or boards, which serves the same pur- 
pose, by excluding the light, as the tying up. The aver- 
age price during the months of October, November, and 
December, is $1 per dozen. 

The best sorts are the following : 

Green Curled. — This is not only one of the most use- 
ful as a salad, but is highly ornamental from its delicately 
cut and curled leaves ; it is much used for garnishing. 

MOSS Curled. — This variety is as yet scarce, but no doubt 
it will soon be extensively cultivated. From the density 
of the foliage, the plant is heavier than the Green Curled, 
is equally agreeable as a salad, and its appearance, either 
green or blanched, is particularly handsome. 

Broad-leaved Batavian. — A loose growing variety 
forming but little heart. As with this blanching can only 
be accomplished by tying up, it is not so desirable as 
either of the preceding. 



VEGETABLES GARLIC HORSERADISH. 181 

White Curled* — This, as the name indicates, has white 
or light foliage ; it is more tender than the Green ; it can- 
not be recommended except as an ornamental variety. 



GARLIC. — (Allium sativum.) 

Another vegetable used mostly by foreigners. It is of 
the easiest culture, growing freely on any soil suitable for 
Onions. It is propagated by divisions of the bulb, called 
" cloves," or " sets." These are planted in early spring, in 
rows, 1 foot apart, and from 4 to 6 inches between the 
plants in the rows. The crop matures in August, when it 
is harvested like the Onion. It is always sold in the dry 
state. 



HORSERADISH.— {Nasturtium Armor acta.) 

This root is now one of the most important we raise in 
our market gardens, upwards of two hundred acres of it 
being grown in the vicinity of New York alone, and for 
the last half dozen years there has been nothing grown 
from which we have realized more profit as a second crop. 
It is always grown as a second crop in the following 
manner : 

In preparing the roots for market during winter, all the 
small rootlets are broken off and reserved for planting, 
leaving nothing but the main root, which is usually from 



182 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

12 to 15 inches long, and weighing about three-quar- 
ters of a pound. The rootlets, or sets, are cut into pieces 
of from 4 to 6 inches in length, from one-quarter to 
one-half in diameter ; these are tied in bundles of 50 or 60, 
the top end being cut square and the bottom end slant- 
ing, (fig. 48), so that in planting there will be no danger 

of setting the root 
upside down; for al- 
Fig. 48.— horseradish set. though it would grow, 

if planted thus, it would not make a handsome root. 
The sets, when prepared, are stowed away in boxes of 
sand, care being taken that a sufficiency of sand is put be- 
tween each layer of bundles to prevent their heating. 
They may either be kept in the boxes in a cool cellar, or 
pitted in the open ground, as may be most convenient. 
We prefer the open ground, when the weather will per- 
mit. I have said that Horseradish is always cultivated as 
a second crop ; with us, it usually succeeds our Early Cab- 
bage, Cauliflower, or Beets. Thus, we plant Early Cab- 
bage, lining out the ground with the one foot marker; on ev- 
ery alternate line are first planted Cabbages, which stand, 
when planted, at 2 feet between the rows, and 16 or 18 
inches between the plants. We always finish our entire 
planting before Ave put in the Horseradish, which delays it 
generally to about 1st of May ; it is then planted between 
the rows of Cabbage, and at about the same distance as the 
Cabbage is in the rows, giving about 12,000 or 13,000 
plants per acre. The planting is performed by making a 
hole, about 8 or 10 inches deep, with a long planting stick 
or light crowbar, into which is dropped the Horseradish set, 
so that its top will be 2 or 3 inches under the surface ; if 



VEGETABLES HORSERADISH. ] 83 

the sets should be longer, the hole should be made pro- 
portionally deep, so that the top of the set be not nearer the 
surface than 2 or 3 inches ; the earth is pressed in along- 
side the set, so as to fill up the hole as in ordinary plant- 
ing. The main reason for planting the set so far under 
the surface, is, to delay its coming up until the crop of 
Cabbage be cleared off; the Horseradish makes its main 
growth in the fall, so that it is no injury to it to keep it 
from growing until July ; in fact it often happens that by 
being planted too near the surface, or too early, it starts to 
grow so as to interfere with the Cabbage crop ; in such 
cases we have often to cut the tops off twice by the hoe, 
before the Cabbage is ready, but this does not injure it in 
the least. It is a crop with which there is very little labor 
during summer ; after the Cabbage has been cut off, the 
Horseradish is allowed to grow at will, and as it quickly 
covers the ground, one good deep hoeing is all that is re- 
quired after digging out the Cabbage stumps. When 
grown between Early Beets, the culture is, in all respects, 
the same, only it is more profitable to have the rows of 
Beets only 18 inches apart; this of course throws the 
Horseradish nearer, so that when planted between Beets, 
it should be planted at the distance of 2 feet between the 
plants in the rows. 

As it is an entirely hardy plant, it is one of the last 
roots we dig up in fall, it being usually delayed until De 
cember. After digging, the small roots are usually broken 
off in the field and stowed away in boxes, so that they 
can be trimmed under cover at leisure. The main root is 
then put away in the pits, as recommended in Winter 
Preservation of Vegetables, so that it can be got at as re 



184 



GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 



quired during winter. The preparation for market is very 
simple, being merely to cut off the green tops and small 
rootlets, leaving the main root only, as represented, in 
reduced size, by fig. 49. It is sold by weight, and is 
generally washed, which is done suffici- 
ently by rinsing a quantity of it together 
in a large tub. 

Our manner of growing Horseradish 
in this district, we claim to be a great 
advance on the methods practised in 
general. All American writers on the 
subject, that I have seen, follow in the 
same track and recommend planting the 
crowns. This would not only destroy 
the most salable part of the root, but 
when planted thus, the crowns will pro- 
duce only a sprawling lot of rootlets, that 
are utterly unsalable in the market. 
They also tell us, that "after two 
seasons growth the roots will be fit for use." Now, 
my experience in growing this root, has most emphati- 
cally told me that after two seasons growth it is entirely 
unfit for use, or at least unfit for sale, which I suppose is 
about the same thing. A few years ago, one of my neigh- 
bors had a patch of about two acres, which from some 
cause or other he had neglected to have dug until late in 
spring, and concluded, as it w r as then rather late to sell 
it, he would leave it to grow over until next season. On 
commencing to dig it the next fall, he found that the main 
root, instead of being solid, as it is at one year old, had be- 
come partially hollow, and of a woody, stringy nature, 




Fig. 49 HORSE- 
RADISH. 






VEGETABLES HORSERADISH. 185 

and when offered to manufacturers, it was refused al 
any price. So there was no help for it, but dig up and 
throw away his entirely worthless crop at a most unu- 
sual expense, as its two year's growth had massed the 
whole soil with roots. This experiment of my neighbor 
jras a loss to him of certainly not less than $1500. 

Grown in the deep rich soil of our market gardens, Horse- 
radish has been for the past twenty years one of our most 
profitable second crops, and as an encouragement to begin- 
ners, I will state that the price has, in this, as with most other 
vegetables, steadily advanced, showing that, even with in- 
creased competition, there has been more than correspond- 
ingly increased consumption. The price for five years, 
ending 1854, did not average more than $70 per ton ; from 
that time to 1860 about $120 per ton ; and from 1860 to 
1866 fully $200 per ton.* Of course the prices these later 
years were inflated, yet still the proportion is higher for 
this than for any other vegetable. Our average weight 
per acre is five tons, or a little over three-quarters of a 
pound per root for 12,000 planted. It has always been a 
surprise to me how the price has kept up, in view of its 
easy and safe culture. But there is one thing to be re- 
membered ; these heavy crops are only obtained in our 
gardens that are in the highest state of culture, no ordi 
nary farm land, the first season, manure it as you might, 
will produce such results. 

* Since then it has sold lower ; in the year 1873 it probably averaged $150 
per ton. 



■ — ■*>•- 



186 



GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 



KOHLRABI, OR TTJRNIP-ROOTED CABBAGE. 

{Brassica oleracea. Var.) 

In general appearance, this vegetable more resembles a 
Ruta Baga Turnip than a Cabbage, though it is more gen- 
erally classed with the latter. It is best cultivated by- 
sowing the seeds in rows in May, June, or July, accord- 
ing to latitude. In this district we sow throughout June, 
for succession, in rows 18 inches apart, thinning out to 
about 8 or 10 inches between the plants. It is rather dif- 
ficult to transplant, and we gen- 
erally prefer to sow the whole 
crop from seed, and thin it out 
where it stands ; although when 
the weather is suitable, the thin- 
nings may be planted at the dis- 
tances above named. It is sold 
in our markets in fall in the 
green state, in bunches contain- 
ing three roots, at an average 
Fig. 50— kohlrabi. price of $1 per dozen bunches. 

As it is not in general use, its sale is limited. The vari- 
eties mostly cultivated are 

Early White Vienna, is greenish - white outside; 
flesh white and tender, while young. The best condition 
for use is when the root is from 3 to 4 inches in diameter; 
if younger, it partakes too much of the taste of the Cab- 
bage, and when older it is dry and stringy. The best 
market sort. 

Early Purple Vienna.— Almost identical with the 
preceding, except in color, which is a blueish-purple. 




VEGETABLES LEEK. 187 

LEEK. — (Allium Porrum.) 

The Leek is another vegetable that is exclusively grown 
as a second crop. The seed is sown in April in rows 1 
foot apart, in ground well prepared as recommended for 
the Celery seed bed ; and like all seed beds, it is kept 
scrupulously clear of weeds. The best time of planting 
is the same as that for all our second crops ; during July, 
or as soon as the first or spring crop can be cleared off 
The ground can hardly be too rich for Leeks, and when 
time will allow, we always contrive to get in a slight ad- 
ditional coat of manure for this crop ; the spring dressing, 
large as it always is, hardly being sufficient. The ground 
being well prepared by plowing and harrowing, lines are 
marked out by the marker at 1 foot apart, and the Leeks 
planted on each line at 5 or 6 inches apart ; we do not 
earth up, but instead plant rather deeply. As it is a plant 
the foliage of which is but little spreading, great care 
must be taken that weeds are never allowed to get ahead, 
for if they do, they may soon entirely envelope the crop 
to its total destruction. 

It is a vegetable used mostly in winter and spring, and 
requires to be dug up, in this vicinity, in November, as 
otherwise it would be injured by our severe winters, but 
in milder sections it is better left standing where it grew ; 
it is quite a hardy vegetable, so that 20 or 25 degrees be 
low freezing will not injure it. It is preserved, by the 
market gardeners here, in trenches, exactly as Celery it 
preserved; see chapter on Celery. Large quantities are 
sold in our northern markets, at fairly remunerative rates, 
although from the nature of the plant, it requires perhaps 



188 



GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 



more labor than any other vegetable to prepare it 
for market. Figure 51 represents the Musselburgh 

Leek, trimmed previous to being 
bunched up for market. From 
six to eight roots are tied in 
each bunch, which bring in the 
market, upon an average, through- 
out the season, about 75 cents 
per dozen bunches. We plant 
about 85,000 plants on an acre. 

The two varieties used, are 
known as Musselburgh and Lon- 
don Flag. The former is rath- 
er preferred in market, being 

Fig. 51.-MUSSELBURGH usuall y larger, but there is but 

little choice between them. 




LEEK. 



LETTUCE. — (Lactuca sativa.") 

Perhaps there is no plant of the garden that we could so 
ill afford to dispense with as Lettuce. Its cultivation is uni- 
versal, by all classes, and from its tractable nature and 
freedom from nearly all insects and diseases, it is manage- 
able in the hands of every one. In a well appointed mar- 
ket garden, it is the most important vegetable cultivated, 
engaging our attention throughout the entire year, either 
in the open ground in summer, in forcing houses or hot- 
beds in winter, or in cold frames in spring. As our mode 
of growing it under glass is sufficiently described in treat- 



VEGETABLES LETTUCE. 189 

ing of pits, frames, etc., I will in this place confine myself 
to our system of cultivating it out of doors. 

For our main early crop, that is sold from the open 
ground in the latter part of May or first of June, the seed 
is sown the previous season in the open ground, from the 
15th to 25th of September. These plants are usually 
large enough to be planted in frames in four or five weeks 
later, as recommended for Cabbage plants, about 600 or 
700 being planted in a 3x6 sash. Occasionally we sow 
them in the frame in fall, and do not transplant them, as it 
saves a great amount of labor, but they are not quite so 
good plants unless transplanted, as it is difficult to sow 
them so that they come up at the regular degree of thick- 
ness. The winter treatment of Lettuce plants is similar 
in all respects as described for Cabbage plants. In dry, 
well sheltered spots, by covering up with leaves or litter, 
late in the season, say middle of December, Lettuce plants 
may be saved over winter without glass covering, and in 
southern parts of the country, without difficulty. Like most 
plants that we term hardy, 20 degrees of frost will not in- 
jure them. The plants for setting out in spring, are also 
sown in cold frames in February, and in hot-beds in March, 
and by careful covering up at night, make plants to set 
out in April ; but these are never so good as those win- 
tered over, and it can only be recommended where cir 
cumstances do not permit the other method. To econo- 
mize, not only in space, but in manure, we make every foot 
of our gardens available, so that when we come to plant 
out our Lettuce in March or April, instead of planting it 
in a bed exclusively for itself, it is planted at the same 
time and between the rows of Early Cabbage or Cauli- 



190 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

flower, which are set at 2 feet apart. The Lettuce matures 
its crop in half the time that it takes for the Cabbage, and 
is consequently all cut off and marketed before the Cabbage 
is half grown. If it were not so, they could not be both 
grown at once on the same ground, for, when the Cabbage 
)rop attains its growth, it requires the full space allowed 
■ — 2 feet — for its development. 

This early crop of Lettuce from the open ground is con- 
sidered rather an auxiliary than a main one, it meets with 
a rapid sale at an average of $1.50 per 100 heads. Rath- 
er a low price it may be thought ; but growers, having 
only ten acres of ground, not unfrequently plant over 
100,000 heads. It is planted somewhat closer than Cab- 
bage, usually about 15,000 per acre. For succession crops 
of Lettuce, sowings may be made in the open ground as 
early as spring opens, until July. When not planted be- 
tween Cabbage, they are set at 1 foot apart each way. 
They are sold to some extent throughout the whole sum- 
mer, but the great weight of the crop is sold about the 
first week of June, in New York markets. The summer 
price of Lettuce is very variable, as the supply is often 
irregular — it may average $2 per 100. 

The passenger in the horse cars going from Sixtieth 
street to Harlem, on New York Island, any day from 
June to October, may see little patches of vegetation of 
different shades of green, ranged in uniform and regular 
lines. These are the " salad patches " cultivated mainly 
by German market gardeners ; they range from two 
acres down to a quarter of an acre in area. It seems a 
wonder that the cultivation of such a small plot of earth 
should give an able-bodied man a living ; but a living it 



VEGETABLES — LETTUCE. 191 

does give, in nearly all casas, and some have quite a respec- 
table surplus for a " rainy day." The manner of growing 
the Lettuce for the first or early crop, is the same as that 
practised by the market gardeners of New Jersey or 
Long Island, namely, using plants from seed sown in fall, 
that have' been wintered over under sashes, and planted 
out as early as the ground is fit to work, which in these 
warm nooks (in most cases at the base of rocky eleva- 
tions), is often as early as the first week in March. In 
some particularly favored spots the Lettuce is planted out 
in the first week of October, and if it remains unscathed 
during winter, comes in in such fine condition for market 
in May as to well repay the risk. The variety used for this 
purpose is the " Brown Dutch." In any section of the coun- 
try where the thermometer never falls lower than 10° above 
zero, Lettuce sown the first week in September and planted 
out the first week of October in sheltered spots in dry 
soils, will be almost certain to " winter over," and give 
a crop in spring earlier than if treated by any other 
method. The wonder is that it is not more extensively 
done at such points as Charleston and Savannah, where, 
so far as I can judge, there is nothing to hinder it from 
being had in a marketable condition at any time, by 
ranging the sowings and plantings from the middle of 
February to the middle of April. To return to the New 
York City growers ; the varieties grown under glass and 
first planted out in spring, are usually the " Butter " and 
" Curled Silesia." As soon as the crop is planted out, 
sowings are made for a succession ; this time, of " Curled 
India " and " Butter," the Silesia being unfitted for the 
warm weather at which this sowing would mature. The 



192 GAKDEXING FOR PROFIT. 

crop planted out in March matures by the end of May or 
first of June, and as soon as it is cut off, the ground 
is plowed or dug over, and the plants from the 
March sowings are set. Another sowing is made for plants 
to succeed these again, and so on during the entire season, 
the rule being to sow seed at each time of planting. Four 
crops of Lettuce are usually taken from June to October, 
or nearly a crop each month. The plants are set about 
a foot apart each way, and will average one cent per 
head, so that the four crops give a return of nearly 12,000 
per acre. This seems like an immense return for an acre, 
but though the net profits are respectable, there are some 
serious disadvantages attending: the cultivation. Few or 
none of these men are owners of the land, nor in hardly 
any instance have they a lease. They are tenants at will, 
and pay a yearly rental of, in some instances, $250 per 
acre. Many of your country readers may think that an 
extra cipher has been added to the amount, but they must 
recollect that the value of some of these " salad patches," 
as they are called, is $8,000 per city lot, or over $100,000 
per acre, so that the paltry rental of $250 per acre hardly 
pays the interest of the amount of taxes. The following 
figures were given me by one of the best and largest 
growers, whose patch was two acres : 

Rent t $400 

Manure 250 

Labor of 3 men for 6 months 750 

Horse keep and incidentals 450 

$1,850 

Four crops Lettuce, estimated at $4,000 

Expenditures 1,850 

Annual profits for 2 acres $2,150 



VEGETABLES LETTUCE. 193 

A pretty good profit, but deservedly earned, for to 
attain this result, the grower works early and late. It 
must not be supposed that five acres could be cultivated 
by one man with the above profit. The loss from inade- 
quate hired labor, and the difficulties of selling largo 
quantities of a quickly perishable crop, would be likely to 
make the attempt to largely increase the area cultivated a 
failure. Besides, Lettuce is only used to a limited extent 
in the summer and fall months, and if grown in the quan- 
tities that it is in spring, could not be sold, yet in all 
large cities it is used more or less at all seasons, and 
commands for limited quantities usually a higher price 
than in spring, the season of its greatest consumption. 
No doubt the system of our New York City Lettuce 
growers might be successfully and profitably followed in 
the neighborhood of many other cities and large towns. 

The varieties of Lettuce used for the different purposes 
of forwarding and forcing, and for out-door culture in 
spring and summer, are of more importance than with most 
vegetables. I once lost almost my entire crop of Frame 
Lettuce, from planting the Curled India, a summer vari- 
ety, instead of the Curled Silesia, which I had got from a 
well meaning but not very learned friend, whose hiero- 
glyphics had got transposed. 

Early Curled Simpson. — This variety we place at the 
head of the list, believing it to be most generally useful 
for all purposes. It is a sub-variety of the Curled Silesia, 
rather more curled, and having more of a yellow shade of 
green ; it is the kind which is planted in cold frames al- 
most exclusively, and is also largely grown as an early 
open air variety between the Cabbage crop. This vari 



194 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

ety, properly speaking, does not head, but forms a compact 
close mass of leaves. This condition of maturity is at- 
tained quicker than in varieties that form firm heads, 
which gives it the great desideratum — earliness. 

Curled Silesia. — A variety extensively sold in all seed- 
stores, but we believe the preceding to be an improvement 
upon it. The Curled Silesia is darker green, rather less 
curled, and does not mature quite so early as the Simpson. 

Tennis Ball. — A favorite forcing variety, and, as the 
name indicates, forming a hard head ; it makes few outer 
leaves, and for this reason can be planted quite closely 
under glass, from 6 to 7 inches apart. It is the variety 
mainly used in our hot-beds and forcing pits. 

Boston Market. — This is an improved variety of the 
Tennis Ball, and attains a larger size. It grows very com- 
pact, is beautifully white and crisp, and is one of the best 
varieties for forcing. 

Drumhead Or Malta. — This is one of the best summer 
varieties ; heads remarkably large, crisp, tender, and of 
good flavor. 

Black-seeded Butter. — A variety similar to the Tennis 
Ball, but larger in all its parts, forming heads in the open 
ground often 14 inches in diameter, and averaging fully 
a pound in weight. We use it extensively as an early out- 
door variety, and also to some extent in our cold frames. 

Curled India. — This we consider to be by far the best 
of the curled sorts for hot weather ; it forms an immense 
head, often 16 inches in diameter, and is solid as a Cab- 
bage. 

Hardy Green Winter. — This, next to the Brown 
Dutch, is the hardiest of all varieties, and for that reason 



VEGETABLES MARJORAM. 195 

it is largely grown; many of the other varieties failing in 
our frames in winter, while this comes through unscathed. 
It is not much used for forcing, unless when we are 
obliged to resort to it by having lost the others. When 
fully matured, it forms a solid head. 

Paris Green COS.— Although the Cos varieties of Let 
tuce are not so suitable for our climate, yet they are so 
much superior in flavor, that they are occasionally grown 
in early spring and fall for private use, though I have 
never seen them in our markets. In shape, they differ en- 
tirely from the other varieties, the head being elongated 
and of a conical form, 5 or 6 inches in diameter, and 8 or 
9 inches in hight. The present variety is deep green. To 
be had in perfection, it requires to be tied up to ensure 
blanching. 

Paris White COS* — Similar to the above, except in its 
outer coloring, which is yellowish-green. This variety is 
said to have been cultivated in England for half a century, 
and is still the leading market sort, millions of it being 
grown annually in the market gardens of London alone. 



TWA 'R.TO'R.ATVr.— Sweet.— {Origanum Marjoram.) 

A well-known aromatic herb, grown to a considerabl 
extent for market purposes ; but as it is of less impor- 
tance than Thyme, which is grown very largely for sale, 
the reader is referred to that head for all information re- 
garding its culture, price, etc., as in these particulars they 
9tq entirely identical. 



196 GARDENING FOR PROFIT 

MELON. — Musk. — (Cucumis Melo.) 

The Melon is not cultivated in the vicinity of New 
York, in the market gardens proper, but to a large extent 
in what may be called the form-gardens of Long Island 
and New Jersey. There it is grown almost in the same 
manner as they grow Corn, planting about the same time, 
and cultivating in the same manner, and often with but 
very little more profit per acre than a crop of Corn. But 
the Melon is a fruit easily shipped, and when grown by 
the forwarding process we detail for Cucumbers — by 
planting the seeds on sods under glass — there is no ques- 
tion but that it can be made equally profitable in all re- 
spects with the Cucumber, when grown in southern lati- 
tudes for our northern markets ; although like many other 
fruits and vegetables so easily raised, it/can never be ex 
pected to be profitable if used in the district in which it 
is grown. It is a plant not at all particular as to soil, pro- 
vided it be not wet or heavy ; moderately enriched light 
soils are those most congenial to it. 

For open field culture, they should be planted in hills 6 
feet each way, incorporating well with the soil, in each 
hill, a couple of shovelfuls of thoroughly rotted manure. 
Sow four or five seeds in each hill,* and cultivate afterwards 
as for Corn. Too much care cannot be used in saving the 



* The term, "hill," when used here and elsewhere, means but a slight 
elevation of the surface, and is used only as a convenient term to denote 
where the seed or plant is to be planted. But from the signification of the 
word, it naturally leads the novice in gardening into very serious error, by caus- 
ing him to think he must literally raise a hill on which to sow or plant, and in 
consequence we too frequently see plants elevated on little knolls a foot or more 
above the general surface, from which the rain slides, and on which the sun beats 
to their utter destruction. 



VEGETABLES — MELON. 197 

seeds of all plants of this class, as they cross very readily ; 
for this reason, when seeds are to be saved from any par- 
ticular variety, care must be taken that it is widely re- 
moved from any other — not less than 100 yards. If seed 
is not wanted, improper crossing will make no diAerence 
to the fruit that season, but the seed — the product of 
that crop — will be affected thereby, and its impurity de- 
veloped when fruit is raised from it. 

From the facility with which the Melon intermixes, it 
follows that the varieties are very numerous, and for the 
same reason it is difficult to retain varieties pure. The fol- 
lowing seem to be the most fixed in character, and are 
the sorts in general use. 

Green Citron* — Fruit medium size, deeply netted; in 
shape almost round, varying from 6 to 8 inches in diam- 
eter ; flesh green, and of rich delicious flavor. It is the 
leading market variety at the North. In selecting for 
seed or for use, the most netted specimens should always 
be chosen, as they are always vastly superior in flavor to 
those with smooth skin. The growers who bring their 
melons to the New York market are very careful in saving 
their seed, and some of them have succeeded in producing 
very large and fine fruit by a continuous selection of the 
largest and best for their stock of seed. 

Nutmeg* — Fruit, nutmeg-shaped. Skin deep green, 
finely and thickly netted ; flesh greenish-yellow, rich and 
sugary, in flavor second to none. It is extensively grown 
in private gardens, but is thought not to be quite so pro- 
ductive as the Citron for market. 

White Japan. — A very distinct sort, deeply ribbed, 
slightly netted with skin of a yellowish white ; flesh yel- 



198 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

low, melting, and richly flavored. A recently introduced 
variety of great merit. 

Skillman's Netted* — Form roundish oval; flesh deep 
green, sweet, and richly perfumed. A variety much 
esteemed for forcing, as it is closer growing than most 
other sorts, and also one of the earliest. 

Persian Ispahan* — A most valuable variety for the 
more Southern States, although entirely too late for this 
vicinity, unless forwarded previously under glass before 
planting out. It is oval, of the largest size, averaging a 
foot in length, with a diameter in its greatest thickness 
of 8 inches. Skin smooth, and when fully ripe, of a light 
yellow ; flesh yellowish white, having a rich perfume and 
delicious flavor. 

Ward's Nectar. — Among the varieties for the amateur 
or private garden, there can be nothing finer than this; 
the vine is probably not productive enough to make it a 
profitable market sort. It is a green fleshed Melon, ex- 
ceedingly sweet, and of the most delicious flavor. The 
Cassaba is another fine Melon for the family garden. It 
is a Persian variety, often weighing ten or twelve pounds, 
and of fine quality. 



-»o«- 



MELON— Water.— (Citrullus vulgaris.) 

Like the Musk Melon, when cultivated for sale, this is 
essentially a plant more suited for the farm than the gar- 
den, as it requires even more space in which to grow. The 
soil best suited to it is a rather sandy loam ; heavier soils 
being apt to induce a too strong growth of leaves. It 



VEGETABLES MELON. 199 

should be planted about the same time, and cultivated 
in all respects the same as the Musk Melon, only that the 
hills should not be less than 8 feet apart. It is grown in 
immense quantities on the light sandy soils of New Jer- 
sey, for the New York and Philadelphia markets, in which 
it is said to give a profit of from $100 to $200 per acre. 
But it is in the vicinity of our southern cities, Charleston, 
Savannah, etc., where we have regular steamboat commu- 
nication, that these tropical fruits can be grown at a high 
rate of profit to the cultivator. 

"Water Melons, grown in the vicinity of Charleston, in 
July of this year, were sold by the thousand in New 
York, to the consumer, at $1 each ; while those grown in 
southern Jersey, in August or September, were a drug at 
15 cents and 25 cents. The leading varieties are : 

Mountain Sprout. — An old and well-known variety, 
and still the leading market sort. It is of the largest size, 
longish oval; skin dark green, marbled with lighter 
shades; red fleshed; of excellent quality. A greater 
weight can be raised per acre of this than of any other. 

Phinney's Early. — A new variety of superior quality; 
flesh deep red, sweet and well flavored. It is very early 
and productive, and an excellent sort for market. 

Black Spanish* — Fruit medium, almost round; skin 
dark green; flesh red; sweet and delicious. It is a great 
favorite in private gardens. 

Ice Cream. — A round white-fleshed variety of good 
flavor, but not equal to the red-fleshed. It matures 10 
days earlier, however, and on that account is worth culti- 
vating in the Northern or Eastern States, where the sea- 
son for the finer sorts is too short. 



200 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

Orange. — So called from its peculiarity of the flesh 
separating from the rind when fully ripe ; it is below me- 
dium size ; flesh red ; sugary, but coarse grained ; inferior 
to many others. 

Citron Water Melon. — Outwardly a very handsome 
fruit of small size, but not worth growing as a ripened 
fruit. It is used to some extent for making sweetmeats, 
for which purpose it is alone cultivated. 



MINT.— {Mentha viridis.) 

A hardy perennial plant, found growing in abundance 
along the roadsides in many places. It is often grown in gar- 
dens, however, and is used in soups, sauces, salads, etc., very 
generally. It is of the easiest culture. It is increased by 
divisions of the root, and planted at distances of a foot 
apart ; it quickly forms a mass, which may be cut from 
for many years without renewal. It is grown to a con 
siderable extent in hot-beds and forcing pits, in the same 
way as Lettuce, and sold in the markets in early spring. 
Its treatment there is very simple, being merely to lift 
up the roots in solid mass, placing them on the 3 or 4 
inches of earth in the hot-bed or bench of the forcing 
house, and water freely as soon as it begins to grow 
The sale is not large, but growers realize about $15 pe 
Bash, (3x6), for what is thus grown throughout winter 
and spring. 



VEGETABLES MAETYNIA. 



201 



MARTYNIA. — {Martynia proboscidea.) 

A vegetable used to a considerable extent for pickling, 
the pods or fruit of which are produced in the greatest 




Fiff. 52.— MARTYNIA. 



abundance. It is cultivated by sowing in open ground, 
in April or May, and transplanting to 2 feet each way, in 
June ; it is fit for use in July and August. 



202 GABDENING FOK PEOFIT. 

MUSTARD. — (Sinapis alba, and S. nigra.) 

Is used for culinary purposes as a salad, usually in con* 
juration with Cress. For this purpose it may be had 
throughout the entire season, by sowing during winter in 
hot-beds or forcing pits, and, on the opening of spring, in 
the open ground, where, by sowing at intervals of two or 
three weeks, it may be had in proper condition for use 
throughout the year. Sow thickly in rows, 1 foot apart, 
on any soil. 

White Mustard* — This is the variety mostly used as a 
salad ; the seeds are bright yellow, and are used in the 
manufacture of the mustard of commerce. 

Black Mustard* — This variety is hardly distinguishable 
from the preceding, except in the color of its seeds, which 
are dark-brown ; they are used for medicinal purposes, and 
also in manufacture of Mustard. 



MUSHROOM. — {Agaricus campestris.) 

I know of no vegetable which has such a novelty and 
interest to the beginner, as the cultivation of the Mush- 
room. In all other vegetables he sees something tangible 
to start with — seeds, plants, or roots ; but here, we may al- 
most say he sees neither, for the seeds cannot be seen with 
the naked eye, and it requires an unusual effort of the im« 
agination, to believe the white moldy subtance we call 
spawn, to be either plants or roots. There are so many 
different systems of growing the Mushroom, detailed in 
most of the works on gardening, that the reader is too 



VEGETABLES MUSHROOM. 



203 



often bewildered in choosing a guide. In this, I will only- 
detail one method, which I have practised for many years 
with unfiling success. To make the cultivation of the 
Mushroom profitable, it must be done in a building, either 
specially erected for the purpose, or in some shed, stable, 
or cellar, already on the premises, and which can be con- 
verted to that use. The most suitable place, in establish- 
ments having green-houses, vineries, or forcing pits, are 
the back sheds, usually erected over the boiler pits, such 

as are shown in the plans of 
forcing pits in this work. 
But such an erection is not 
indispensable ; any place, 
where a temperature from 
40° to 60° can b'e sustained 
during winter, will suit. 

We have also grown them 
under the stages of our 
green-houses, but our " mod- 
ern improvements " of late 
Fig. 53.— mushroom. years, allow us no longer 

room for the operation there. The time of beginning 
may be any time during winter ; we have usually begun 
our preparations about December 1st, which brought our 
beds into bearing about February 1st, at the season that 
Mushrooms begin to be most wanted. 

Our method of growing Mushrooms is very simple, and 
can be accomplished to a certainty by any one conforming 
to the following directions. Let fresh horse droppings be 
procured from the stables each day, in quantity not less, 
perhaps, than a good barrow load ; to every barrow load 




204 GARDENING FOE PEOF1T. 

of droppings add about the same weight of fresh loam, 
from a pasture or sod land, or soil of any kind, in fact, that 
has not been manured ; (the danger of old manured soil 
being, that it may contain spurious fungi). Let the 
droppings and soil be mixed together, day by day, as the 
droppings can be procured ; if they can be. had all at 
once, in quantity enough, so much the better. Let the 
heap be turned every day, so that it is not allowed to heat 
violently, until you have got quantity enough to form the 
bed of the dimensions required. Be careful that your 
heap is under cover, so that it cannot possibly get wet. 

The most convenient size for a bed is from 4 to 5 feet in 
width, and if the Mushrooms are wanted in quantity, it 
is the plan most economical of space to start on the floor 
of the house with the first bed, the additional ones to be 
formed of shelving, 4 feet wide by 10 inches deep, raised 
one above another, something like the berths in a steam- 
boat. Now, from the prepared heap of droppings and 
soil, spread over the bed a thin layer ; pound this firmly 
down with a brick ; then another layer, pounded down as 
before, and so on until it reaches a depth of 8 inches. Be 
careful that it be no more nor less than 8 inches ; more 
would cause the mass to heat too violently, while less, 
is hardly enough. Into this bed plunge a thermometer ; 
in a day or two the bed will heat so that it will run up to 
"LOO or over, and as soon as it declines to 95 or 90, take a 
dibber or sharp stick and make holes all over the bed, at 
the distance of about 12 inches each way, to about half 
the depth of the bed ; into each hole put a piece of spawn 
of the size of a hen's egg or so, covering up the hole again 
with the compost, so that it will present the same level firm 



VEGETABLES — MUSHEOOM. 205 

surface as before the spawn was put in. Let it remain in this 
condition for about 10 or 12 days, by which time the spawn 
will have "run" through the whole bed. Now spread 
evenly over the surface of the bed nearly 2 inches of fresh 
loam, firm it down moderately with the back of a spade, 
and cover up the bed with 3 or 4 inches of hay or straw ; 
this completes the whole ojueration of " planting the crop." 
Nothing now remains to be done, but attention to the 
proper degrees of heat and moisture. 

If you can control the means of heating, so that the 
place can be kept uniforaily at a temperature of 60°, all 
the better, but if not, it may range from 40° to 60° ; it 
should never get much below 40°, else the bed will be- 
come cold too quickly, and delay the crop until too late in 
the season to be profitable. Unless the air of the house 
has been unusually dry, the Mushrooms will appear before 
any water is required ; but examination should be made, 
and if the surface of the bed appears dry, a gentle sprink- 
ling of water, heated to about 100°, must be given. 

With this treatment, beginning in December, our first 
crop is ready for use in February, and as the Mushrooms 
do not come up all at once, it takes about three weeks to 
gather the crop. After this, a slight dressing of fresh 
soil, of about half an inch in depth, is spread over the bed, 
again beat down with the spade ; this, gently watered with 
tepid water when dry, and a second crop of Mushrooms, 
(often better than the first), is gathered in March. 

To show how a simple oversight in our operations may 
defeat the whole work, I will state, that in my first attempt 
at Mushroom growing, I labored for two years without be- 
ing able to produce a single Mushroom. In my apprentice 



206 GARDENING FOE PEOFIT. 

days, we had known no such word as fail, in so simple a 
matter; but here, on my first attempt, on my own re- 
sponsibility, I was met by total failure. Every authority 
was consulted, all the various methods tried — but with no 
better success. In all such cases something must be 
blamed, and I pronounced the spawn as worthless ; but 
my good natured employer quietly suggested that this 
could not well be, as a friend of his had abundant crops 
growing from spawn received from the same source. 
Driven into a corner by this information, I made another 
exploration of my "authorities," and was fortunate to 
find in one of them a single sentence that at once showed 
where my error had been, it was to " be careful to delay 
the covering with mould, until ten or twelve days after the 
bed had been spawned." Now, in all the different meth- 
ods I had tried, I had in each invariably put in the spawn, 
and at once put on the 2-inch covering of soil, which had 
the effect to shut down the steam, thereby raising the tem- 
perature in the bed to a degree to destroy the spawn, and 
consequently to defeat my whole operations. My excuse 
for this digression is to show the importance of what 
might otherwise be thought unnecessary details. 

Although spawn is procurable at cheap rates in all hor- 
ticultural stores, yet to such as desire to make it them- 
selves, I give the following brief directions. Take equal 
portions of horse droppings, cow dung and fresh loam, 
mix the whole thoroughly together, as you would make 
mortar ; then form it into cakes about the size of large 
bricks, place these on edge, under cover, until they become 
half dry ; then insert into each a piece of spawn half an 
inch or so square, let the bricks remain until they are quite 



VEGETABLES — MUSHROOM. 207 

dry ; then spread about 8 inches of horse dung over the 
floor of the shed, on which build the bricks in a pile 3 feet 
wide by 3 feet high, keeping the side in which the spawn 
has been put uppermost ; then cover them over with suffici- 
ent stable manure, so as to give a gentle heat through 
the whole. In two or three weeks the spawn will have 
spread itself through the whole mass of each brick ; they 
are then removed to a dry place, and will retain their vital 
properties for many years. 

There is not the least question that the cultivation of 
Mushrooms for market, forced in the manner detailed, 
will give a larger profit for the labor and capital invested 
than that from any other vegetable. The supply has never 
yet been half enough, and sellers have had prices almost 
pretty much as they pleased. I know of no house that 
has been especially erected for the purpose, and the mar- 
kets have been supplied from beds formed in out-of-the- 
way corners, giving only an uncertain and irregular sup- 
ply, very discouraging to buyers. I have no doubt what- 
ever that Mushroom houses, roughly built, but exclusively 
devoted for that purpose, would, in the vicinity of any of 
our large cities, pay a profit of 50 per cent, per annum on 
cost of construction. 



208 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

NASTURTIUM.— Indian Chess.— {Tropceolum majus.) 

A plant at once highly ornamental and useful. The 
shoots and flower-buds are sometimes used as a salad, but 
it is mainly grown for its seeds, which are pickled in vin- 
egar, and used as a substitute for capers. It can be grown 
in almost any soil or situation, entwining itself around 
strings, brush, or trellis work, that may be given for its sup 
port. It may be sown thinly in drills, an inch or so deep, 
in April or May. There are many beautiful varieties, but 
the following are only those in use in our vegetable gar- 
dens. 

Tall Nasturtium. — Attains a hight of 8 or 9 feet, the 
flowers are yellow, blotched with crimson. This variety 
makes an excellent screen or covering for unsightly places 
in the garden. 

Dwarf Nasturtium. — This, in growth, is quite distinct 
from the preceding, never attaining more than 3 feet ; it 
should be sown thinly in drills, 3 feet wide, and staked up 
with brush like Peas. Its flowers are very handsome, 
bright yellow, blotched with scarlet. 



OKRA OR GUMBO. — {Abelmoschus esculentus.) 

This vegetable is extensively grown in the Southern 
States ; its long pods, when young, are used in soups, 
stews, etc., and are believed to be very nutritious. It is 
of the easiest culture, and grows freely, bearing abun- 
dantly on any ordinary garden soil. It is sown at the 
usual time of all tender vegetables — in this district in 



VEGETABLES — OKEA. 



209 



May — in drills 2 inches deep, and from 18 to 24 inches 
apart in the rows, for the dwarf sorts, for the tall nearly 
double that width. There are only two sorts commonly 




Fig. 54. — OKRA, OR GOrBO. 

grown, " dwarf" and " tall ;" the former being the most 
productive. 



210 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

ONION.— {Allium Cepa.) 

Next to Cabbages, perhaps, Onions are the most prof- 
itable crop of our market gardens, in which they are 
grown from sets, and nearly all sold in bunches in the green 
or unripened state. Grown from seed, they are cultivat- 
ed almost exclusively by farmers or men who devote farm 
land to this purpose alone; thus grown, they are all sold 
in the dry state, and form an important article of com- 
merce. 

I will first describe the manner of cultivating in our 
market gardens. To produce the " sets," or small bulbs, 
that are planted to give early Onions to be sold green, a 
poor piece of ground is chosen as early as it is fit to work 
in spring. It is brought into a thorough state of pulver- 
ization by plowing, harrowing, and raking, so that the 
surface is level and free from stones; a line is then 
stretched, and lines are marked out by the 9-inch side of 
the marker, in these the seed is sown in beds of 6 rows 
wide, rubbing out every 7th row marked, so that it forms 
an alley 18 inches wide. For this purpose the seed i? 
sown quite thickly, and on poor soil, so as to produce tht> 
" sets " as small as possible, for we find that whenever 
they much exceed half an inch in diameter, they will run 
to seed. It matters not how small the bulb is ; even when 
of the size of the smallest Peas, they make an equally good 
if not a better crop, than if of a larger size. The sets are 
taken up in August, well dried, placed with the chaff 
among them in a loft of stable or barn, about 4 inches 
deep, covered up by six inches of hay on the approach of 
hard frost, and left thus until wanted for setting out in 
spring. This is the usual method of raising Onion sets. 



VEGETABLES — ONION. 211 

Mr. Wm. C. Pelham, of Maysville, Ky., wrote me in 
1871, requesting me to try his method of raising Onion 
sets and make public the result of the trial if satisfactory. 

Mr. Pelham's method is to select a level and dry piece 
of ground. Beds are formed two feet wide, with a path 
of one foot between. The beds are excavated to the 
depth of two inches — or, in other words, the path or alley 
between is two inches higher than the beds; the bottom 
of the beds is nicely smoothed with the back of a spade, 
so as to present a level surface whereon to sow the seed. 
The seed is sown so that there will be fifteen or twenty 
seeds to the square inch. If the surface of the beds was 
sprinkled with plaster or white sand, the seeds, which 
are black, could be sown more evenly. After sowing, the 
seeds are covered with two inches of pure clean sand, 
which brings the beds and paths to the same level. The 
whole is then rolled with a light roller or patted down 
with a spade. The advantages of this plan are, that there 
being no seeds of weeds in the sand, the labor of weeding 
is entirely saved, and the sets when matured are far more 
easily harvested from the clean, soft sand than from the 
hard-baked surface which most soils present after a sea- 
son's rains and sun, on a surface that can not be stirred. 

I consider this plan of raising Onion sets most valuable 
to the market gardener, as a very little space devoted to 
this purpose will save him a heavy expense in the pur- 
chasing of Onion sets. Few market gardeners can grow 
them in the ordinary manner, unless at a cost greater than 
they can be purchased for frgm those who make a busi- 
ness of growing them. But the price paid for sets the 
past six or eight years has been so high that many market 



212 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

gardeners have abandoned growing Onions from them. 
For Onion sets the best soil of the garden is chosen, ma- 
nured with short, well rotted manure, plowed in at the 
rate of 75 tons to the acre; when only concentrated ma- 
nures can be obtained, crushed bone is preferable to gu 
ano. The ground is further deeply harrowed ; the har 
row turned on its back, and the soil still further broken up 
with the short teeth, and if any inequalities are left, they 
are leveled and smoothed with the rake. The line is now 
stretched along the bed, and the 9-inch marker again 
makes the drills, 6 in each bed, with one rubbed out for 
an alley. The sets are now planted in the drills, at a dis- 
tance of 3 inches apart, pressing each bulb down firm- 
ly, so that it will keep right side up ; the row is then 
closed in by the feet or a rake, so that the set is entirely 
covered up. The ground is then rolled over, so as to ren- 
der it still more compact around the bulbs ; as soon as the 
lines can be traced, by the Onions starting to grow, the 
hoe is applied between the rows, and the soil broken be- 
tween the plants by the fingers, where the hoe cannot reach, 
so as to destroy the germ of the weeds. If attended to in 
time, twice going over with hoeing and weeding is suf- 
ficient until the crop is fit for market, which it begins to be 
about the first week in June, and is usually all gathered 
by the first week in July, so as to give us time for second 
crops. 

When we first begin to send them to market, they are 
usually not more than half grown, and are washed and tied 
in bunches containing from nine to twelve Onions ; later, 
when full grown, from six to seven. This crop is one re- 
quiring considerable labor and expense, to get it in shape 



VEGETABLES ONIOST. 213 

to sell, taking cost of sets, labor, manure, etc., probably 
not less than $400 per acre, for the past five years ; but 
the receipts have been correspondingly high, averaging in 
that time quite $800 per acre. Onions, planted from sets, 
rarely fail to give a crop on any kind of soil, provided it 
lias been well manured ; and although they are sold by 
the market gardeners m the green state, they are equally 
good, ripened and dried, when raised from sets, as from 
seed. The quantity of sets required per acre, is from six 
to ten bushels according to size ; at present prices, they 
cost $10 per bushel. 

The method of raising Onions from seed as a farm or 
garden crop, differs but little from that we adopt for sets, 
except that they are sown generally about 1 foot apart in 
the rows, and manured at the rate of only 25 tons to the 
acre instead of 75. It is of the utmost importance that the 
ground for Onions, grown from seed, be as nearly level as 
possible, so that the seed is not washed away by rains. 
It also saves considerable labor in hoeing, when it can be 
got free from stones and seeds of weeds. 

The seed of Onions, when sown as a field crop, is most- 
ly sown by a machine used solely for that purpose ; this 
machine sows two rows at once, making the drill and sow- 
ing as it goes along. The operation of sowing is begun 
as soon as the ground is fit to work in spring, as we al- 
ways find, other conditions being the same, that those ear- 
liest sown produce the heaviest crop. The covering of 
the seed is best done by rolling the ground with a light 
roller, drawing it lengthwise of the lines. Rolling is also of 
great advantage in smoothing the surface, so that hoeing, 
particularly with the scuffle hoe, is much more easily per- 



214 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

formed. The quantity of seed per acre, is about 4 lbs., 
when sown by the machine, that is if the seed is new and 
fresh ; and none else should ever be used, as Onion seed, 
of more than one year old, is not apt to produce a vigorous 
crop. The seed is quickly tested by placing a little of it 
in damp cotton or moss, in a moderately warm room ; if 
fresh, it will sprout in three or four days. The early at- 
tention to weeding or hoeing is, if possible, of more import- 
ance when the crop is raised from seed, than when from 
sets ; for the growth being slower and feebler from seeds, 
if weeds once get ahead, the crop may be ruined. Here, 
as well as in all other garden operations, one man will hoe 
over more ground, before the weeds start to grow, than 
ten men will, after the weeds get to be six inches high. 
Here then, a " stitch in time," literally, " saves nine." 

The crop is always harvested in August, the bulbs be- 
ing lifted by slightly digging under the row with a light 
digging fork. The Onions are left on the ground, usually 
from two to three weeks, according to the condition of 
the weather, to get thoroughly dried, and are then placed 
in barrels, or about 6 or 8 inches deep upon shelving made 
for the purpose, in a barn or cellar; any place that is 
dry, without being too warm, being most suitable. 
Onions will only endure a certain amount of frost without 
injury, so that it is always safer to cover them up from in- 
tense freezing as cold weather approaches. The price of 
Onions is variable in the extreme ; those first sent to mar- 
ket often selling for $5 and $6 per barrel, while in a week 
later the same quality is hardly salable at SI. 50 per bar- 
rel. Again, in spring, when successfully wintered over, 
pome careful grower often realizes the first named price. 



VEGETABLES — ONION. 



215 



It may be given, as a fair average, that $1.50 per barrel is 
the price realized by the grower. The product is about 
150 barrels per acre, and the cost of raising about $125 ; 
leaving a profit of $100 per acre. 

The varieties of Onion are quite numerous, but, as in 
all other leading vegetables, cultivators confine them- 
selves to only a few well established sorts. 

Yellow Dutch, or Strasburg. — This is the variety that 
is grown almost exclusively when the crop is planted from 
" sets," and sold in the green state. Not that it is any 
more productive, nor does it sell quite so well as the White 
or Silver Skinned, but from the fact of the " sets " keep- 
ing better in winter, it is the sort we find safest to use. 

White Portugal, or Silver Skinned.— A very fine sort, 

delicate flavor, much grown for private use ; it requires 

more care in keeping in win- 
ter than any other, however, 
and is hardly ever used as 
a market sort, unless for 
pickling, for which it is sold 
in large quantities. The 
bulb is quite flat ; the outer 
skin, silvery white. It is 
entirely distinct from the 
Fig. 55. — silver-skinned onion. « Silver Skin " of the East- 
ern States, which is a brownish-yellow skinned variety, bet- 
ter known as Old Yellow, or Common Yellow. 

Yellow Danvers. — This variety has not been sufficiently 
tested as a market sort, to be sold green, but from what I 
have seen of it, I am inclined to think it may yet super- 




216 



GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 



sede the Strasburg for that purpose. It certainly is far 
more productive, but the question, whether it will keep as 
well in sets, during winter, has not been sufficiently test- 







9 



I : 



Fig. 56.— YELLOW DAX- 
YERS ONION. 



Fig. 57. — WETHERSFIELD RED 
ONION. 



ed. When sown from seed, as a field crop, it is said to 
give one-third greater weight than any other variety, but 
it does not keep so well as some others. 

Wethersfield Large Red. — This is the staple variety 

of the eastern Onion growers ; 

enormous quantities of it are 

H!f\J$ grown for shipment, it be- 

mg found, from its excel- 



w^/Mw\ lent keej>ing qualities, to be 

best fitted for that purpose. 

It is never so salable as the 

White or Yellow, however, 

in our home markets. 

Early Large Red. — About a fortnight earlier than the 

Large Wethersfield, rather smaller in size, close grained 

and heavy ; mild in flavor, a good keeper. 




Tier. 58. 



-POTATC )N. 



VEGETABLES PARSLEY. 



217 



Potato Onions, or " Multipliers," are the best of all 
for family use. They are grown by planting the small 
bulbs, early in spring, in rows 1 foot apart, by 4 or 5 inches 
in the row, and cultivated otherwise as described for those 
grown from sets. The increase is formed by the bulb, as 
it grows, splitting up and dividing into six or eight bulbs> 
these forming the crop when at maturity in August. 

Top 5 or Tree Onion* — Has a bulb in size and general 

appearance similar to the Po» 
tato Onion, but is propagated 
by the singular production of 
a cluster of small bulbs in 
place of flowers. These resem- 
ble a cluster of hazel nuts, 
and by them it propagates 
very rapidly. It is grown to 
a considerable extent, in some 
places, as an early market 
sort, sold green ; when ripe, 
it must be used early in the 
season, as it does not keep well in winter. The planting 
and subsequent culture is the same as for other sorts. 




Fi<r. 59. — top onion. 



PARSLEY. — (Petroselinum sativum.) 
A vegetable in more general use for garnishing than any 
other plant of our gardens ; it is also extensively used in 
soups, stews, etc. Its cultivation forms quite an import- 
ant item in market gardens, particularly under glass. 



218 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

The manner of cultivating it thus is by sowing it be- 
tween the rows of a growing crop of Lettuce in our cold 
frames, in April. As it is slow to germinate, it only ap- 
pears at the time the Lettuce is cut off in May. It is then 
cleared from weeds, hoed, and forms a growth fit to cut a 
month before that sown in the open ground. After the 
first cutting has been made, in June, it is generally so low 
in price as not to be worth marketing, so it is allowed to 
grow through the summer until the first week in Septem- 
ber, when it is cut off close to the ground and thrown 
away, as it is rarely wanted at this season. It is again 
hoed, and as at this time it makes a short healthy growth, 
suitable for keeping well in winter, it is stowed away in 
narrow shallow trenches, exactly in the same manner in 
which we preserve Celery. 

This way of growing Parsley, I believe, is nearly con- 
fined to ~New York ; but as the consumption of such an 
article is necessarily limited, this market has been over- 
supplied of late years. Formerly it has frequently paid 
twice the value of the sash that covered it, in one season — 
$6 for a 3 x 6 sash. No doubt, in many places this system 
of growing would be as profitable as it used to be with 
us. When not grown under glass, it should be sown 
thickly in rows a foot apart, in early spring. The vari- 
eties cultivated are the " Dwarf Curled," for framing and 
general crop, and the Moss or Fimbriated, for garnishing. 



VEGETABLES — PARSNIP. 219 

PARSNIP. — (Pastinaca satwa,) 
Of late years, our market garden grounds have "become 
too valuable to be used in growing this vegetable, the 
competition from well cultivated farm lands having 
brought it down below our paying level. Its cultivation 
is, in all respects, similar to the Carrot. The soil most 
suitable is a deep sandy loam, moderately enriched. It 
is sown rather thickly in our gardens in early spring, at 
a distance of 12 or 14 inches apart in the rows ; on farm 
lands, at 18 or 20 inches, or wide enough for rows to be 
worked between by the cultivator. Like all vegetables 
of this nature, it must be thinned out to a distance of 3 
or 4 inches apart between the plants ; and our oft repeat- 
ed caution about weeds must be here again enjoined. It 
is used almost exclusively in winter, but in our Northern 
States, what is wanted for winter use, must be dug up in 
fall, and packed away in the manner described under the 
head of " Preserving Vegetables in Winter." What are 
wanted for sale or use in spring, are best kept in the bed 
where they grow; being entirely hardy in our coldest 
districts. About one-half is usually dug up and pitted in 
fall, for sale in winter, and the other half left over for 
spring. But it sometimes happens that the winter sup- 
ply is exhausted before the frost is out of the ground in 
spring, sufficiently to permit of their being dug, and when 
procurable at such times, they command almost fabulou 
prices. 

On one such occasion my salesman reported that there 
was not a root of this vegetable to be found in market, 
and suggested an attempt to dig them at any cost. On 
an examination of a well sheltered plot, we found it prac- 



220 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

ticable, with crowbars, picks, and wedges, to extract them 
slowly from the frozen soil, and with our ordinary force, 
a few barrels were dug that day that were quickly sold at 
810 per barrel. I at once secured a supply of extra labor- 
ers, and by our efforts the next day, we sent in 40 barrels 
that sold for $6 per barrel ; three or four days more ex- 
hausted our supply, but the plot, of little more than half 
an acre, brought nearly $800, which would not have sold 
for more than $200, had not the unusual scarcity in mar- 
ket been taken advantage of. The average market price 
is about $1.50 per barrel, and at that rate, as a farm crop, 
it is, in my opinion, by 50 per cent, a better paying crop 
than Onions. It will average easily 200 barrels per acre, 
and in our rich garden soil about 300. The expense of 
raising I should judge to be not more than $100 per acre 
on farm land ; in gardens about $200. The increased cost 
in the garden being mainly in the greater value of the 
land, for it will be remembered that the annual rent of 
leased gardens in the vicinity of New York, and other 
large cities, is about $75 per acre. 

A number of varieties of Parsnips are enumerated in 
seed lists, but the distinctions, as far as I have seen, are 
hardly worth a difference in name, and I am inclined to 
think that the soil often determines peculiarities of variety. 
Certain it is, that by sowing the " Hollow Crowned " on 
heavy soil, it will be in a great measure deprived of that 
distinction, while the same seed sown on light sandy soil, 
will have this peculiarity well marked. 



VEGETABLES PEA. 221 

PEA. — {Pisum sativum.) 

The Pea is grown largely for market purposes in nearly 
every state in the Union, the time at which it is sown and 
matures being at widely different dates in northern and 
southern sections. In any district, its highest degree of 
perfection is attained under a comparatively low tempera- 
ture, hence it is one of the many vegetables described as 
best to be sown in " early spring." True, it is sown for a 
succession crop throughout the summer months, even as 
late as August, but the first sowings, everywhere, always 
produce the best results, and it is from the first sowings 
only that it is ever offered in market. For market pur- 
poses it is more a crop of the farm than of the garden, 
and many hundred acres are cultivated in Southern Jersey 
and Long Island for the New York market. Warm, 
light soils, moderately enriched by stable manure or bone 
dust, are best adapted to its culture, but if the ground 
has been manured the previous year, no manure is needed. 
The whole crop is marketed by July, and is usually follow- 
ed by a second crop of Late Cabbages or Turnips. The 
two crops together, average a profit of from $150 to 
$300 per acre, according to earliness, condition of soil, etc. 
There is an important matter connected with growing 
Teas, that confines their culture to the vicinity of a town 
or village ; it is the necessity of being able to get a large 
number of hands to pick, at the time they are marketable. 
The variation in one day, in the market, is not unusually 
from $2 to 50 cents per bushel, which shows the vast im- 
portance of an early crop. From the sofc condition in 
which it is required to be gathered, it is a vegetable not 
very manageable to ship, and the packages, which should 



222 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

be of latticed boxes or baskets, snould never exceed the 
capacity of a bushel, when shipped from distances requir- 
ing from two to three days in the transit. But even this 
expense and care is well repaid by the high rates for 
which the first lots are sold. When grown as a market 
crop, Peas are never staked, and are sown in single rows 
2 to 3 inches deep, and from 2 to 3 feet apart, according 
to the variety, or the strength of the soil. When grown 
in small quantities for private use, they are generally sown 
in double rows, 6 or 8 inches apart, and staked up by brush, 
for the taller growing kinds. 

The varieties are very numerous, but are in a great state 
of confusion, the same kind being often sent out under a 
dozen names. The following varieties are well defined, 
arranged as our experience gives the order of merit for this 
locality. 

EARLY VARIETIES. 

Daniel O'Rourke is still the leading market variety 
in this district, and in fact, must be in all parts of the 
country, judging from the immense quantities of it sold 
by the seedsmen. It should be sown, for a field crop, in 
rows from 2 to 2i feet apart, about If bushels of seed be- 
ing required per acre. 

Extra Early. — We find this to be a few days earlier 
than the preceding, but not quite so large in the pod, and 
hence not so profitable for market, but desirable as the 
earliest sort for private use. A favorite market variety in 
the Southern States, and shipped north in large quantities. 



VEGETABLES — PEA. 223 

Little Gem. — A green, wrinkled marrow, similar in 
habit to the Tom Thumb, but much superior in quality, 
and coming into use a few days later than Daniel 
O'Kourke. It is very prolific and of excellent flavor. 
Grows about one foot high. 

Blue Peter. — A new and remarkably dwarf variety, 
growing only about six inches high. It is earlier than 
Daniel O'Rourke, very prolific, of fine flavor, and is said 
to be an improvement on Little Gem. 

Tom Thumb. — An early and productive variety grow- 
ing about one foot high. It is also a very hardy variety, 
and is generally used for sowing in fall in the Southern 
States, where it sometimes requires a little protection by 
brush during winter, and it matures very early in spring. 
As it matures its crop nearly all at once, it is not so well 
suited to private as to market gardens. 

McClean's Advancer. — A comparatively new variety, 
becoming fit for use in a week after the earliest sorts ; pod 
and pea large, and of excellent flavor. 

LATE VARIETIES. 

Champion Of England. — This, so far, is, by general 
consent, acknowledged as the best of the late varieties. It 
is tall growing, four feet in hight, requiring to be staked 
up ; pod and peas of the largest size. 

British Queen. — Plant strong and vigorous, often at 
taining a hight of six feet. Aside from its large size, it hat 
the merit of continuing long in bearing, and is less af- 
fected by mildew in summer than most other varieties. 

Blue Imperial* — One of the oldest varieties, but yet 



224 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

standing witL undiminished merit as one of the best late 
summer varieties ; it is one of the latest, very productive, 
and of excellent quality. 

Veitch's Perfection. — One of the dwarfs of the late 
varieties, abundantly productive ; pods and peas of the 
largest size ; a favorite fall sort. 

Black and White-eyed Marrowfat. — These are both 
productive and hardy varieties, extensively grown as field 
peas ; used dry. They are also, from their great produc- 
tiveness, grown largely in private gardens, but they are 
not so fine flavored as most other varieties. 

Tall and Dwarf Sugar. — These are the varieties known 
as " edible podded," and are excellent to use in the green 
state, in the same way as String Beans, retaining almost 
the identical flavor of the Pea. When not used with the 
pods, they are equally excellent as shelled Peas, and as 
the name implies, particularly sweet. 



PEPPER. — {Capsicum annuum.) 

A tropical plant, that requires to be started in hot-beds 
or forcing pits, in the Northern States. The most com- 
mon method is, to sow in hot-beds in March, and treat in 
all respects as directed for the cultivation of the Egg 
Plant. Light sandy soils are rather best suited for its 
growth, but it will grow tolerably well on any soil. 
When cultivated for market, they are planted in rows 2 
feet apart, and 15 inches between the plants. The crop 



VEGETABLES POTATO. 225 

is moderately profitable, but it is not grown in large quan« 
titles, the main consumption of it being by the pickle 
factories. 

The popular varieties are ; 

Bull-nose, or Bell. — An early variety of mild flavor, 
rind thick and fleshy ; it is a favorite 
variety both for pickling and for use 
in the crude state. 

Squash, or Tomato-shaped. — Gener- 
ally grown for pickling, hardly so early 
as the preceding, but very productive ; 
it is the leading market variety, 
Sweet Mountain, or 
, Mammoth.— Similar to the 
ob bell peppeb. Bull-nose, but larger, and 
milder in flavor ; used to make stuffed pickles. 
Cayenne. — The variety of commerce ; pods 
small, cone-shaped; coral-red when ripe; it 
is quite a late variety, but the pods are as 
frequently used for pickling green as when ¥ \ s . 61.-cay- 
ripe. Extremely acrid. ehsepeppeb 





POTATO. — {Solanum tuberosum.) 

The soil acknowledged to be best suited for the Potato, 
is sandy loam ; in all heavy soils it is more subject to dis- 
ease, and the flavor is also much inferior. This, however, 
is true of nearly all vegetables, heavy soils inducing a wa- 
tery insipidity of flavor. Like all robust growing vegeta- 



22G GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

bles, Potatoes can be grown with varying success on soils 
of all kinds and in all conditions of fertility ; but it is 
every way most profitable to use an abundance of ma- 
nure, when it is at all attainable. In breaking up good 
pasture land, the decaying sod answers sufficiently well 
for the first year in lieu of manure. Manure is applied 
either in the rows or hills, or broadcast over the surface, 
and plowed in ; the latter plan in all cases being prefer- 
able, when manure can -be obtained in sufficient quantities. 
Potatoes, when grown for market, are always a farm crop, 
the receipts per acre being much too low for the regular 
market garden ; the large quantities that are planted usu- 
ally prevent the use of manure in any other way except in 
the rows. When thus applied, furrows are plowed out in 
spring, after the ground has become dry and warm, usu- 
ally 3 feet apart, and from 3 to 4 inches deep. The ma- 
nure is spread in the furrow, the " sets " or M seed " 
planted thereon, from 8 to 1 inches apart, and the furrow 
again covered in by the plow. As soon as the shoots are 
seen above ground, the ridge should be at once hoed, and 
the cultivator run between the rows ; as they advance in 
growth, the soil should be laid up on each side against 
the row, so as to form a slight ridge. 

Considerable discussion has at various times occurred 
concerning the relative merits of planting cut ot whole 
tubers, but is yet undecided, each system having its advo- 
cates ; a fact which goes far to prove that it is of little 
consequence which method is followed. The best rule, in 
our experience is, to plant the whole small tubers if fully 
matured, and the larger ones cut, but in either case leav 
ling enough bulk to give sufficient sustonance to the plant. 



VEGETABLES POTATO. 227 

The Long Island farmers, in the neighborhood of New 
York, have their crops of Early Potatoes sold off early 
enough in July to get the ground leveled and Late Cab- 
bages planted on the ridge on which the Potatoes have 
been growing, sufficient manure being left in the ground 
to carry through the crop of Cabbage. The two crops 
together give an average profit of $150 per acre. Pota- 
toes may be preserved during winter by the section pit 
system recommended for the general preservation of 
vegetables, or in a frost-proof cellar. 

The varieties of the Potato are very numerous, many of 
them having only local reputations, so that it is somewhat 
difficult to name the best for such an extensive territory 
as ours ; those below named seem to have the most qual- 
ifications to commend them for general culture. 

Early Rose* — This excellent variety was introduced 
about five years ago, and has become a universal favorite. 
It is one of the very best yet introduced, unrivalled for 
earliness, quality, and productiveness. 

Early Goodrich. — This variety has become very popu- 
lar in some sections of the country. It is an early and 
productive variety, of good quality, yielding on rich soils 
from 250 to 350 bushels per acre. 

Early Vermont, — A seedling raised in 1867, from a 
seed ball of the well known Jackson White, fertilized with 
the Garnet Chili. Its habit of growth and general ap- 
pearance is much like the Early Rose, but it has proved 
from seven to ten days earlier than that favorite sort. It 
is also said to be more productive and fully equal in qual- 
ity to that variety. 

Jackson White* — A variety of great excellence; tubers 



228 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

large; color yellowish-white; skin often rough. An ex- 
cellent flavored variety, and though not early, is exten- 
sively grown in this vicinity for general crop. Plant two 
and a half to three feet in drills. 

Peach Blow* — Extensively grown for market, and a 
favorite shipping variety. Tubers rather large, round; 
eyes rather sunk; skin pinkish-red. Very productive, 
and in this section has for some years withstood disease 
better than any other sort ; should be planted 2 1 1 2 or 3 
feet in drills. 

White Peach Blow. — A sub-variety of the above, 
claimed by some to be superior. 

Late Rose. — A " sport " from the Early Rose, coming to 
maturity from two to three weeks later than that variety, 
and said to be more productive, hardier, and a better 
keeper. 

Compton'S Surprise. — A new late variety, claimed to 
excel all others for productiveness, size, and fine quality 
and appearance. Shape oval-oblong; eyes sunken; skin 
smooth; color reddish purple, flesh white; grows to a 
large size, and retains its quality perfectly throughout the 
year. 

Peerless. — This variety, like the Early Rose, is a seed- 
ling from the Garnet Chili. It is a good variety for the 
main crop ; grows to a large size, and is very productive, 
frequently producing from 100 to 150 barrels to the acre. 



VEGETABLES — PUMPKIN EADISH. 220 

PUMPKIN*.— {GucurUta Pepo.) 

The Pumpkin is yet offered in large quantities for sale 
in our markets, but it ought to be banished from them 
as it has for some time been from our gardens. But 
the good lieges of our cities are suspicious of all innova- 
tions in what is offered them to eat, and it will be many- 
years yet before the masses will understand that the mod- 
est, and sometimes uncouth looking, Squash is immeasure- 
ably superior, for all culinary purposes, to the mammoth, 
rotund Pumpkin. The Pumpkin is an excellent agricul- 
tural plant, of great value for cattle, but I have no reason 
to allude to it here, except to denounce its cultivation or 
use as a garden vegetable. 



RADISH. — {Baphanus sativus.) 

Radishes are consumed in immense quantities, and are 
one of the vegetables which we deem of no little import- 
ance as a market crop. To have them early, a light rich 
soil is the best ; heavy or clayey soils not only delay their 
maturing, but produce crops much inferior, both in appear- 
ance and flavor. They are grown by us in various meth- 
ods ; the most common is, after sowing a crop of Beets in 
rows, to sow the Radish crop regularly over the bed 
broadcast. The Radishes come up quickly, and are gath- 
ered and sold, usually in six weeks from the time of sow- 
ing. The Beets at this time have only become large 
enough to be thinned, and will not be ready for at least a 
month later, so that the Radish crop is taken off the same 



230 



GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 



ground with little or no injury to the Beet crop. Another 
method is, to sow them between the rows of Early Cab- 
bages or Cauliflowers, where they also are gathered off so 
soon as not to interfere with these crops. 

These are the methods practised in our gardens here, 
where land is so valuable that we must make it always 
carry double, and often treble, crops in a season. Radishes 
are also grown in some places very extensively, 
on land devoted exclusively to that purpose, 
in spring. Their culture thus is exceedingly 
simple. The ground being plowed and harrow- 
ed well, the seed is sown, and the harrow again 
run over, which places the seed at the proper 
depth. But though the field cultivation of this 
vegetable is simple, the labor of gathering, tying 
up, and washing, preparatory for market, is 
great, which detracts largely from the profits. 
Perhaps the average receipts are $300 j:>er acre, 
but the expense, before this is realized, is prob- 
ably one-half that amount. It must be remem- 
bered, that, in many cases, it is an auxiliary crop, 
interfering but little with our main spring crops. 
It is one of the vegetables convenient to ship, 
and the early samples from Norfolk, Va., aver- 
_ age $10 per barrel, of 200 bunches ; or about $1000 
long scar- per acre, which should be a great inducement 

LET SIIORT- . . • 1 t i 

T op. to southern cultivators, as there is but little 

danger of glutting the markets with fresh vegetables 

shipped from a southern to a northernport. Only a few 

varieties are cultivated, although the seed lists give dozens. 

Long Scarlet Short Top. — This is the variety grown 



f\ 



VEGETABLES KADISH. 



231 



in rather the largest quantity, as from its shape, (when 
tied up in flat bunches), it is best suited to ship. In rich 
light soils, its average length is about 9 inches. 

Scarlet Turnip. — Rather more delicate in flavor than 
the above, and for this reason in more 
demand for home consumption. By al- 
lowing it sufficient time to grow, it at- 
tains 3 inches in diameter, but it is al- 
ways gathered at half 
this size. This, and the 
preceding, are the two 
varieties that are grown 
as early market sorts. 

Fig. 63.— SCARLET 
TUB »IF RADIOL ^^ y^.^ _ A 

sub-variety of the above, differing only 

in color; grown for the sake of variety, shaped radish. 

French Breakfast* — A variety of quick growth, very 
mild and tender, and one of the best for forcing; color 
scarlet, tipped with white ; of oval form. 

Scarlet Olive-Shaped, — An excellent variety; color 
crimson, rather than scarlet ; small top ; early. 

LATE VARIETIES, GROWN FOR FALL 
AND "WINTER USE. 





Yellow and Gray Turnip-rooted. — Varieties well 

adapted for summer use, as they stand the heat better than 
the early sorts ; they are mild in flavor, but are but little 
grown, as few relish Radishes at that season. 



232 



GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 



Rose-COlored Chinese. — A valuable variety ; color pink 
or rose ; skin smooth ; of sharp but agree- 
able flavor. Keeps as well as any. 

Black Spanish. — A very hardy variety 
often preserved, keeps as well as any 
other root in sand until mid- winter, in 
cellar or root-house ; large size ; color 
grayish-black ; rather harsh in flavor. 




Fig. 65. — ROSE- 
COLORED CHINESE 
RADISH. 

are without it. 



RHUBARB. — {Rheum Rhaponticum.) 

Rhubarb is now cultivated largely for 
market purposes in the vicinity of all 
large cities, and few private gardens 
Its culture is of the simplest kind. It is 
a plant that adapts itself to almost any soil, provided it is 
well drained, artificially or otherwise. The preferable soil 
for Rhubarb as for most vegetables, is a deep, sandy loam. 
Whatever the soil, it should be plowed from 10 to 12 
inches deep, the subsoil plow following in the wake of the 
other, stirring to the depth of 10 or 12 inches more; after 
plowing, harrow deeply and thoroughly. 

After the soil is prepared, lines are struck out by the 
plow 4 feet apart from each side of the field or plot, so 
that they will intersect at right angles. At these points 
the plants are set, first mixing with the soil 3 or 4 shovel- 
fuls of well-rotted manure for each plant. The time of 
planting in the Northern or Western States may be either 
in the fall or spring ; at the South the fall is preferable. 



VEGETABLES BHUBAEB. 233 

Rhubarb is usually propagated by division of the old 
roots ; each eye or bud when broken apart with a root 
attached, forming a plant. But making a, plantation of 
any great extent in this way is expensive to the beginner; 
as the roots are rarely to be purchased under $50 per 
1,000 eyes, and as about 3,000 plants are required to an 
acre, quite an outlay is necessary. 

This expense may be obviated by increasing the plants 
by seeds instead of by division of the roots. In the 
Northern States, the best time to sow the seed is about 
March first, in a cold pit or frame, that is, such a pit 
or frame as is used for keeping Cabbage or Lettuce plants 
in during winter. The soil best suited is a rich sandy 
loam, which should be thoroughly pulverized, and the 
surface made completely level before sowing. One pound 
of seeds, which will give about one thousand plants, will 
be sufficient to sow six sashes, or about 100 square feet of 
surface. After sowing, a soil made light with half its 
bulk of leaf mould from the woods, should be evenly 
spread over the seed to the depth of one quarter of an 
inch, and then nicely patted down with the back of a 
spade. This is necessary in the sowing of all seeds ; for 
if the soil which covers them is left too loose, the air gets 
through and dries up the seed, so that they germinate 
slowly or not at all. Thousands of dollars are annually 
lost both on the farm and in the garden by the want of 
this simple precaution. If the surface of the soil in the 
frames becomes dry, it will be necessary to water, show- 
ering freely from a fine rose watering-pot. If the sashes 
are covered up by mats or shutters so that the soil never 
becomes frozen, the plants will be large enough, if sown 



234 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

March 1st, to transplant by May 1st, but if not covered 
up at night they will take three weeks longer. In local- 
ities warm enough to begin out-door operations by the 
end of February or the beginning of March, there will be 
no need of sowing under sashes, as sowing in the open 
air in the manner described, will do equally well. 

The plants are fit to be transplanted into the open 
ground when they are about an inch in height. The soil 
to receive them should be enriched and pulverized in the 
best manner, and the plants set out either in rows 12 
inches apart and 3 inches between the plants, or in beds of 
a convenient width, say 4 feet, and the plants set equi- 
distant, 6 inches each way. By fall they will have grown, 
if kept clear of weeds, so as to cover all the ground, and 
may then, in the succeeding spring, be planted out per- 
manently in the manner previously described. 

The first season after planting, no stalks will be pulled, 
but the next year a full return may be expected if proper 
attention has been given to cultivation. 

It is exceedingly difficult to name the annual profits 
from an acre of Rhubarb in full bearing, as everything 
depends upon earliness. Even here in the vicinity of 
New York, growers vary in their statements from $100 
to $500 per acre. The difference of a week in earliness 
makes a difference of $200 and $300. 

It may be safe to say, however, that it will average, in 
this vicinity, a profit of $350 per acre annually, from the 
date of planting; in many places where there is less com- 
petition, no doubt double or treble that amount may be 
realized. Rhubarb is a most simple and convenient plant 
for forcing, which may be done in the following manner. 



VEGETABLES KHUBARB. 235 

The roots are dug from the open ground in fall, put close 
together in a box or barrel, and soil sifted in to fill the 
interstices between the roots ; they are then placed in a 
situation where the temperature will range from 55° to 
75°, with a moderate amount of moisture. By this treat- 
ment, Rhubarb may be had from January to April. The 
roots may be placed wherever there is the necessary tem- 
perature ; light is not at all necessary ; in fact, the stalks 
of Rhubarb are much more crisp and tender when forced 
without exposure to direct light ; hence the roots may be 
placed in the furnace room of a cellar, under the staging 
of a greenhouse, or in an early forcing grapery. A florist 
in Boston told me a few years ago, that he had sold 
enough Rhubarb grown under his greenhouse stages, to 
pay his coal bill (over $100), besides having all he wanted 
for his family use. Rhubarb is forced quite extensively 
by some of our market gardeners ; the method pursued 
by them is to lift the roots from the open ground in the 
fall, place them as closely together as possible in such 
pits or frames as are used for hot-beds, but about two 
feet deep, sifting in soil so as to fill the spaces between 
the roots. On the approach of cold weather, the whole 
is covered over with a foot or so of dry leaves, and so re- 
mains until about February first, when the leaves are 
removed and sashes placed on the frames. Sometimes 
this is not done until March, the sashes being then used 
which have been covering Cabbage plants through the 
winter. But little ventilation is given to the frames at 
this cold season, as it is necessary to raise the tempera- 
ture of the frame by the action of the sun's rays, so as to 
forward the crop. It greatly aids the forwarding if the 



236 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

sashes are covered up at night by straw mats or shutters. 
Rhubarb so forced matures about one month before it 
is marketable from the open ground, and averages about 
$10 for each 3x6 feet sash. It must be borne in mind, 
however, that forcing to some extent injures the roots, 
and for that reason it is only practised by those who have 
a surplus that they would otherwise throw away. 
The principal varieties in cultivation are : 
Linnaeus. — Early and best for general crop. 
Victoria . — Later but much larger. 



SAGE. — (Salvia officinalis,) 
See Thyme, and other Sweet Herbs. 



SALSIFY, OR OYSTER PLANT. 

(Tragopogon porrifolius.) 

This vegetable is coming rapidly into general use; 
patches of an acre of extent are seen in some of the more 
extensive gardens here, that a few years ago grew only a 
few rows. It should be sown in early spring. Its cul- 
ture is in all respects similar to that of Carrots, and al- 
though its consumption is as yet limited, for what is grown 
of it, the prices are high and very remunerative. It is more- 
over a safe root to cultivate, for, being entirely hardy, there 
is no risk whatever of its being injured by frost, should it 
bo happen that the digging up is neglected in the hurry 



VEGETABLES SALSIFY. 



237 



of fall work. It is generally better, however, to dig it up 
and put it away as we do Parsnips or Carrots, so that it 
can be got at any time during winter. 
It usually sells at higher rates in spring, 
than in fall or winter; but even with 
the advance in price is less profitable to 
the grower when sold in spring, as that 
being a busy season, the labor expended 
in digging it up and getting it ready, is 
then of much more value. 

As this vegetable will be unknown to 
many, I will state that it is used in vari- 
ous ways, but generally boiled, or stew- 
ed, like Parsnips or Carrots. It is also 
used to make a soup, which has a decid- 
ed flavor of the Oyster. It is also eaten 
as a salad, sliced and dressed with vine- 
gar, salt, and pepper. There are no 
varieties. 



SCORZONERA-BLACK SALSIFY. 

(Scorzonera Hispanica.) 

Very similar to the above in general 

character, and of the same culture and 

Fig. 66.— salsify, use. It is not, however, so generally 

esteemed as the Oyster Plant, and is not grown except for 

private use, and even for that purpose sparingly. 



238 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

SEA KALE. — {Crambe maritima.) 

This vegetable is much esteemed and grown largely for 
market purposes, both in England and France, and no 
private garden of any extent in either country, is consid- 
ered complete without it. Here, however, we seem to 
make but little headway in its cultivation. I have never 
yet seen it offered for sale in our markets, and its culture 
is practised in but few private gardens. 

There is an impression that it is difficult of culture in 
our climate ; this is not so, by any means; it is equally as 
easy to grow it here as it is in England, only that, like all 
vegetables, requiring artificial heat for its perfection, its 
cultivation is attended with more expense than that of veg- 
etables that we plant in the open groun'd, without other 
care than to keep them clear of weeds. 

It is increased either by roots or by seed ; when roots 
can be obtained to start with, they are quicker. The 
manner of operating with them is as follows : in fall, a 
few old plants of Sea Kale are dug up, and the roots cut 
in pieces of from 2 to 3 inches in length ; these are placed 
in boxes of sand in a dry cellar, until February or March j 
they are then strewn on the surface of a hot-bed, where, 
in a week or two, they will emit roots and tops ; they are 
then potted, hardened off for a few weeks, and as soon aj 
the weather is settled, planted out in rows 3 feet apart, 
and 2 feet between the plants. If the ground is in the 
condition that it should be, Sea Kale, thus treated, 
will produce crowns strong enough to give a crop th<» 
next season after planting. When grown from seed, the 
seed should be sown in hills, at the above distances apart, 
in early spring, each hill being thinned out to three or four 



VEGETABLES SEA KALE SHALLOTS. 



239 



plants. In our colder latitudes, the crowns should be 
covered by 4 or 6 inches of manure or leaves, as a protec- 
tion from frost. 

Sea Kale is only fit for use in the blanched state, conse- 
quently, on the approach of 
spring, the " crowns " should 
be covered with some light 
material, such as sand or leaf 
mold, to the depth of 12 or 
15 inches, so that the young 
shoot, being- thus excluded 
from the light, will become 
blanched in growing through 
this covering, or, sometimes 
cans, made for the purpose, 
or inverted flower pots, are 
used, the only object being 
to exclude light. In England 
it is forced extensively, by 
covering over the whole beds 
with leaves, manure, or some 
heating material. The young 
shoots, when cooked, have 
a flavor something between 
Asparagus and Cauliflower, 
Fig. 67.— sea kale. but is much preferred to 

either. The engraving shows a young shoot, when ready 
for the table. The fully developed leaves are large and 
robust. 




240 GARDEXEfTGf FOR PROFIT. 

SHALLOTS. — {Allium ascalonicum.) 

This vegetable, which is used in the green state in early 
spring as a substitute for Onions, is planted by dividing 
the bulb in September, and planting in rows 1 foot apart 
and 6 inches between the plants ; it makes a slight growth 
and forms its roots in the fall. On the opening of spring, 
it developes rapidly, and the single bulb, planted in Sep- 
tember, will have increased, by May, a dozen fold. From 
its hardy nature, coming in at least three weeks earlier 
than the Onion, large quantities are sold, at rates corre- 
sponding with those of Onions raised from sets. It, with us, 
has ever been a profitable vegetable to raise, and I have 
rarely found the profits on an acre to have been less than 
$300. It is generally cleared off by the last week in May, 
giving sivfficient time to follow with second crops of 
Early Cabbage, Beets, Turnips, etc. 



SORREL. — {Rumex acetosa.) 

A well-known perennial plant, cultivated to some ex- 
tent with us. It is used in soups and sauces, mostly by 
the Germans and French. In the French markets, it is 
nearly as abundant as Spinach is in ours, and is highly re~ 
commended as a wholesome vegetable. Its cultivation is 
very simple. Seeds, sown thinly in rows in early spring 
will give a heavy crop of leaves in June and July ; when 
the flower-stalk of the Sorrel starts to grow, it should be 
cut out, which will add greatly to the development of the 
leaves. The crop may be left two seasons, but is more 
tender when annually raised from seed. 






VEGETABLES — SPINACH. 241 

SPINACH. — (Spinacia oleraeea.) 

This is a very important crop in our market gardens, 
Hundreds of acres of it being cultivated in the neighbor- 
aood of New York. It is one of the most manageable 
of all vegetables, requiring but little culture, and may b* 
had fit for use the entire season. 

In our market gardens, it is sown in early spring as an 
auxiliary crop, between the rows of Early Cabbage ; it 
comes to perfection usually in five or six weeks after sow- 
ing. At this season, it sells at a low price, usually from 
50 cents to $1 per barrel ; but it requires but little labor, 
and generally pays about $75 per acre of profit. The 
main and important crop is sown in drills, 1 foot apart, in 
this section from 1st to 15th September, or late enough in 
fall to get about half grown before cold weather sets in. 
It is sometimes" covered up, in exposed places, with straw 
or salt hay during winter, which prevents it being cut 
with the frost ; but in sheltered fields, here, there is no 
necessity for covering. 

Any soil that will grow a good Corn crop, will grow 
Spinach, though, as is the case with all other vegetables in 
which the leaf or stem is the part used, the land can 
hardly be made too rich. Our practice is to grow it on 
our best soils, applying not less than 50 tons of well- 
rotted stable manure to the acre, or, in lieu of stable man- 
ure, one ton of bone-dust ; or about 1,200 lbs. guano, sown 
after plowing, and deeply harrowed in. The rows are 
made with the ordinary garden " marker," at the distance 
of 12 or 15 inches apart. The seed is sown rather thickly, 
we prefer to do it always by hand, using from 10 to 15 
lbs. per acre; when thickly sown, the plants can be 



242 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

thinned out so that a much larger yield will be given. 
"We sow here from the 5th to the 15th of September, and 
quite frequently sell, by thinning out, 50 or 75 barrels 
from an acre, which usually, in October and November, 
sells for $2 per barrel. This thinning out, which is done 
by cutting out the plants where thickest with a knife, if 
carefully performed, does not at all injure the main crop, 
which is to stand over winter until spring. I may here 
caution the inexperienced of the necessity of treading 
down the soil on the seed, if the land is dry; the crop 
is often ruined by the want of this precaution, in con- 
tinued hot, dry spells that are frequent with us during 
September. If the soil is left loose, the hot air shrivels 
up the seed so that it will never germinate. If a heavy 
roller is not at hand, the best way is to tread in each row 
with the feet. The same precaution is necessary in the 
sowing for Cabbage and Lettuce plants ; at this season 
these are often lost from the same cause. There has some 
question arisen of late whether the round or prickly 
seeded Spinach is the best ; as far as I can judge, it makes 
but little difference which kind is used, though we use the 
round almost exclusively, as it is the easiest to sow. The 
price of Spinach in the New York market, last year in 
February, for a few days, reached $10 per barrel, although 
the average for the spring months of April and May (its 
regular time of selling), was not more than $3 per barrel, 
but fair crops give a yield of 200 barrels per acre ; at a 
high estimate, the expenses will not exceed $300 per acre, 
so that it is safe to claim a net profit of $300, although ex- 
traordinary crops often do much more than this. A near 
neighbor of mine realized $900 from three-quarters of an 



VEGETABLES SPINACH. 243 

acre last spring, getting the land cleared early enough in 
•May to succeed the Spinach with a crop of Flat Dutch 
Cabbage. Spinach is hardy enough to grow in almost 
any part of the country ; but in districts where the ther- 
mometer falls below zero, it is necessary to cover it up 
about Christmas with hay, straw, or leaves, to the depth 
of two or three inches; it is best done just as a snow 
storm is setting in, as the snow settles down the covering, 
and keeps it from blowing off. Spinach is yet compara- 
tively little grown for our Northern markets at the South, 
but no doubt soon will be ; in such latitudes as Charleston 
and Savannah it should be sown in October and Novem- 
ber, and would be in fine order for use in February. At 
this cool season it could be shipped with safety, as it will 
remain in good condition for three or four days if packed, 
and would command a rapid sale at the time when our 
Northern crops are still frozen solid. 

The varieties are very few. 

Round. — This is the variety generally cultivated for 
winter use, being remarkably hardy, and standing our se- 
verest winters with but little injury. It is the main mar- 
ket sort. 

Prickly. — Although this variety is usually sown in 
spring and summer, it also stands well in winter, but gives 
less bulk per acre than the first named. 



244 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

SPINACH— Substitutes for. 

As Spinach will not endure the hot suns of summer, it 
running up to seed at once if sown in hot weather, several 
plants are used as substitutes, and though these are not 
grown for market, they are very convenient in the family 
garden. 

One of these is the Swiss Chard, mentioned under Beet, 
several forms of which are sold as Spinach Beet and Per- 
petual Spinach. Perhaps the best substitute for Spinach 
in the summer months is the 

New Zealand Spinach. — {Tetragonia expansa.) — A 
plant of the same character and uses, but of a different 
genus, and used only in private gardens. It is a remark- 
able plant, of low branching habit, growing with wonder- 
ful luxuriance during hot weather — single plants often 
measuring 6 feet in diameter. The leaves are used ex- 
actly as common Spinach ; it is best grown by sowing the 
seeds after the soil is well warmed, and transplanting to 3 
feet apart in very rich, warm soil. 

Orach. — (Atriplex hortensis.) — Another plant of the 
same family, and its leaves are used in the same manner 
as Spinach. It succeeds best if sown where it is to grow, 
in rich moist soil. 

SQUASH. — {CucurUta Pepo, and C. maxima.) 

A class of vegetables embracing more marked distinc- 
tions in sorts, fitted for more varied uses, and to be found, 
during the extremes^ Of the season, in a better state of per- 
fection, than, perhaps, any other product of our gardens. 
Being of tropical origin, their growth is all consummated 



VEGETABLES — SQUASH. 245 

during summer ; yet the fruit of the " winter varieties ' 
may be kept, with a little care, until May. They are all 
of luxuriant and vigorous growth, and although they will 
grow readily on almost any soil, yet there is hardly 
anything cultivated that will so well repay generous treat- 
ment. Like all plants of this class, it is useless to sow 
until the weather has become settled and warm ; next to 
Lima Beans, Squashes should be the last vegetable plant- 
ed. Light soils are best suited for their growth, and it is 
most economical of manure to prepare hills for the seeds, 
in the ordinary manner, by incorporating two or three 
shovelfuls of well rotted manure with the soil, for each 
hill. For the Bush varieties, from 3 to 4 feet each way, 
and for the running sorts from 6 to 8 feet. Eight or ten 
seeds should be sown in each hill, thinning out after they 
have attained their rough leaves, leaving three or four ol 
the strongest plants. 

They are extensively grown for market, but are not suf 
ficiently profitable for our highly cultivated gardens, and 
are therefore grown rather as a farm-garden crop. They 
give a varying profit, in our vicinity, of from $100 to $10 
per acre. The early varieties are grown quite extensively 
in the vicinity of Norfolk, Charleston, and Savannah, and 
sliipped North, from two to four weeks earlier than they 
can be had here, and like all such commodities, bring 
three or four times the price of those grown in the vicini- 
ty, in quantities that glut the market. 

The varieties are very numerous, and from the facility 
with which they will cross, it is very difficult to retain the 
different kinds pure. 



246 



GARDENING FOE PROFIT. 




Fig. 68. — WHITE-BUSH SCALLOPED 
SQUASH. 



SUMMER VARIETIES. 

Yellow and White Bush Scalloped. — These are the 

two varieties that are esteemed the most early, and are 

such as are almost exclu- 
sively grown for market, 
for the first crop ; from the 
.. hard texture of the rind, 
they are well fitted for 
shipping, and are the sorts 
grown exclusively at the 
South for that purpose. 
The characters of these va- 
rieties are very decided, never presenting any variation. 
Plant 3 to 4 feet apart in hills. 

Summer Crook-neck. — A much esteemed variety in 
private gardens, somewhat similar in growth to the Bush ; 
rather more dwarf. The fruit is orange-yellow, covered 
with warty excrescences ; usually from 7 to 9 inches long; 
considered the best flavored of the summer varieties. 

Boston Marrow. — This variety may be termed second 
early, coining in about ten days after the Bush and Crook- 
neck sorts. The skin, which is of a yellowish shade, is 
very thin ; the flesh thick, dry and fine grained, and of 
unsurpassed flavor. 



FALL, OR WINTER VARIETIES. 

Hubbard.— ;A general favorite, and more largely grown 
as a late sort than any other ; it is of large size, often 
weighing from 9 to 10 lbs. Color blueish-green, occasion- 
ally marked with brownish-orange or yellow; flesh fine 



VEGETABLES SQUASH — SWEET POTATO. 247 

grained, dry, and of excellent flavor. It can be had in 
use from September to May. Hills 8 feet apart. 

MarMchcad. — A new variety, introduced by Mr. Greg- 
ory, as surpassing all other kinds in richness and excel- 
lence of flavor. It resembles the Hubbard in shape, but 
has a harder shell than that variety, and is heavier in 
proportion to its size ; the flesh is also of a lighter color, 
and fine-grained. It is productive, and a fine keeper. 

Yokohama* — A variety sent from Japan by Mr. Thomas 
Hogg, in 1860. The fruit is roundish, deeply ribbed; 
color orange-salmon; thickly warted; flesh thick, very 
dry, sweet, and excellent ; maturing earlier than the Hub- 
bard, but not so desirable for winter. Plant 8 feet apart. 

Winter Crook-neck. — A variety largely grown in some 
of the Eastern States, where it is said to be kept the en- 
tire season. Skin reddish-pink, when matured; flesh 
close-grained, sweet. Plant in hills 9 feet apart. 

Vegetable Marrow, — This variety is a favorite English 
sort ; the fruit is very variable in size, from 9 to 18 inches 
in length, by from 4 to 6 inches in diameter. The skin is 
greenish-yellow ; flesh white, soft, and of rich flavor; very 
distinct from all of the preceding. Plant in hills, at 8 feet. 



SWEET POTATO.— (Ipomaa Batatas.) 

The Sweet Potato requires a rich, light, warm soil. It 
is more generally grown in the Southern States than the 
common Potato, as there the soil and climate are more 
congenial to it. We have often difficulty, in this district, 



248 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

in saving the tubers sound enough until spring, to start 
for sprouting to produce young plants. The great essen* 
tials to their good preservation, are a dry and rather 
warm atmosphere; the cellar, suitable to preserve the 
common Potato, being usually much too cold and damp 
for this. Where there is no place of the necessary high 
temperature, it is best to get them in spring direct from 
some southern market, where they can always be had in 
good condition ; or they can be kept by packing in bar- 
rels in dry sand, and keeping them in a warm room. In 
this district, we begin to start the tubers in hot-beds or 
forcing pits, about the middle of April, laying them thickly 
together on a 2-inch layer of sand and leaf-mold compost- 
ed together, (or sand alone will suit if leaf-mold cannot 
be had) ; as soon as the buds or eyes show signs of start- 
ing, cover the tubers completely over to the thickness of 
an inch with the same material. Treat as for other tender 
plants in the hot-bed or forcing pit, and the sprouts or slips 
will be ready for planting out by the first of June, 

Market gardeners often make the sale of Sweet Potato 
plants a very profitable operation, immense t quantities of 
them being sold to private growers at the planting season. 
As the sprouts from the tubers come up very thickly, re- 
peated thinnings are made, which is not only profitable to 
the grower, but of great advantage to the remaining plants, 
by giving them the necessary room to grow. One grower, 
in this vicinity, informed me that last season he sold up- 
wards of $1000 worth of plants from 150 sashes. The 
profit from the cultivation of the plant in the field is 
something less than that from Tomatoes, but more than 
from the common Potato. 



VEGETABLES — SWEET POTATO — TOMATO. 249 

In this latitude, the Sweet Potato should never be 
planted much earlier than the first of June ; it is very- 
susceptible of being chilled, and the weather is rarely set- 
tled and warm enough to be safe here before June. Pre- 
pare the hills as for Tomatoes, 4 feet apart, planting three 
plants in each, or if in rows or ridges, 4 feet apart, and } 
foot between the plants; in either case requiring from 
8,000 to 10,000 plants per acre. 

The following are the sorts mostly grown. 

Xanscniond. — This is the earliest sort; tubers large, 
from 3 to 4 inches in diameter at the thickest part, taper- 
ing to each end, and from 5 to 8 inches long ; flesh dry 
sweet and well flavored. 

Red Skinned. — This variety is claimed to be hardier 
than the preceding, but it is doubtful if this is the case. 
It is a long, slender variety, mostly grown in private gar- 
dens, and is believed to be of a richer flavor than the yel- 
low or white sorts. 

Yellow Skinned* — This sort is mainly cultivated in the 
Southern States, where it attains nearly the weight of the 
Nansemond ; it requires a longer season than that variety, 
and is not so suitable for the North. It is of excellent 
flavor, and more free from stringiness than any other sort. 



T01S.KT0.—{Lyeopersicum esculentum.) 

This vegetable is one of the most . important of all gar- 
den products ; hundreds of acres are now planted with it 
in the vicinity of all large cities, and the facility with 



250 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

which it is managed, places it readily under the control of 
the least experienced. It is now grown here almost en- 
tirely by those who grow Peas, Potatoes, Melons, and 
other crops of the " farm gardens," as our market garden3 
proper are too highly enriched and much too limited in ex 
tent to render the cultivation of the Tomato profitable. 
To produce early crops, the seed must be put down in hot- 
beds or forcing pits, about ten weeks before the plants are 
safe or fit to put in the open ground. Thus, in this dis- 
trict, we sow in a hot-bed about the first week in 
March ; in April, the plants are fit to be set out, at a dis- 
tance of 4 or 5 inches apart, in another hot-bed. They 
are grown there (proper attention being given to the hot- 
beds as directed under that head) until the middle of 
May, when they are safe to place in the open ground. 
They are planted, for early crops, on light sandy soil, at a 
distance of 3 feet apart, in hills, in which a good sbovelfull 
of rotted manure has been mixed. On heavy soils, which 
are not suited for an early crop, they should be planted 
4 feet apart. Some attach great importance to topping 
the leading shoot of the Tomato, so that it branches, 
arguing that by this means we get an earlier and heavier 
crop ; all our experience shows that no benefit whatever is 
derived from the practice. Like all vegetables grown on 
so large a scale, and in such varying soil and climate, the 
Tomato sells in our markets at prices varying widely, from 
$10 down to 25 cents per bushel. The average price for 
those raised in the district, being about $1 per bushel. 
The quantity raised per acre is about 400 bushels. This 
may seem at first glance to be quite a profitable crop foi 
a farmer ; but, every acre necessitates the use of at least 



VEGETABLES — TOMATO. 251 

100 sashes, for, on the second transplanting, about fifty- 
plants only can be grown in a sash, and about 5000 plants 
are required for an acre. On one occasion, having a very 
suitable soil, I grew about four acres of Tomatoes for 
three years, which realized me from $1500 to $2000 annu- 
ally in receipts / but I discovered that the operation was 
a losing one, as, to raise 20,000 plants for my four acres, 
I had to make use of 400 sashes, in which, in rather less 
time and with far less labor than it took to grow the To- 
mato plants, Lettuce could have been grown that would 
have sold for at least $2 per sash. Thus I lost annually, 
in preparing for the Tomato plants, half the receipts of the 
crop, before ever they were even planted. But there are 
many parts of the country where Lettuce, thus forward- 
ed, could not be sold, while Tomatoes could, which would 
materially change the aspect of the operation. In the 
southern sections of the country, convenient to shipping, 
Tomatoes are largely grown for the northern markets, and 
there sold at prices highly remunerative to the grower. 
In many instances, in the Southern States, the cultivation 
of Tomatoes for market is carelessly done, the seed being 
merely sown in the open ground and replanted, as we grow 
Cabbages. No doubt, by starting in January or Febru- 
ary with the hot-beds, or even cold frames, and planting 
out in March or April, they could be had at least two 
weeks earlier than they are now sent to us. 

There are always some one or more varieties, said to 

be earlier than others, sent out every spring, but it must 

be confessed that the varieties that we cultivated twenty 

years ago are not in earliness a day behind those issued 

« " vastly superior" in 1866. Last spring, to test them 



252 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

thoroughly, I planted twenty-five plants each of the four 
most popular sorts, under circumstances exactly similar in 
all respects ; there was no difference whatever in earliness, 
and but little perceptible difference in productiveness. 

In my opinion, the extreme point of earliness in toma- 
toes has been reached vears a<jro, and now all further im- 
provements must be in point of size, smoothness, and so- 
lidity ; and that any one laying claim to having varieties 
a specified number of days or weeks earlier than those we 
already have, does so without having a knowledge of the 
subject, or with the desire to impose on the public. The 
tomato is a plant requiring at all times a certain high 
temperature to ripen its fruit ; and though it may ripen in 
Georgia in May, in Virginia in June, in Delaware in July, 
or in New Jersey in August, it requires the same aggre- 
gate amount of heat to do the work. The same is true of 
most fruits and vegetables ; we reach a certain point of 
earliness with a given variety in a given locality, when 
the temperature tells us we must stop. If improvement 
in earliness was progressive, we might have reason to ex- 
pect that the Radish or Lettuce, which matures with us 
in the open ground here in May, would yet mature in 
April. 

I believe that our ordinary methods of saving Tomato 
and all other seeds have, in fact, much to do in preventing 
us making any advance in procuring choice varieties; if 
we would only take the trouble to always select the first 
matured fruits, and the best specimens only, for seeds, and 
so continue, there is no question whatever, but it would 
amply repay the trouble. But the grower for market 
grudges to give up his first basket of fruit, that may realize 



VEGETABLES TOMATO. 253 

him $5 or $10, for a few ounces of seed, knowing that lie 
can get plenty when his crop is not worth the gathering 
for market. But, depend upon it, he makes a mistake, 
for the seed from his first fruits would, perhaps, pay him 
a hundred times better, if used for seed, the next year, than 
any price he might get for it in the market. 

In private gardens, where space is often limited, a 
greater quantity of fruit will be obtained by elevating 
the branches of the Tomato from the ground with brush, 
such as is used for sticking Peas, or by tying to laths 
nailed against a board fence ; or, what is neater yet, the 
hoop training system as practised in France. But for 
market purposes, on a large scale, it would require too 
much labor. 

The following are a few of the many varieties grown. 

The Trophy. — When Col. Waring advertised this varie- 
ty at 25 cents per seed, or 20 seeds for $5, few thought he 
would find many purchasers at such a price; but the uni- 
versal interest taken in this fruit and the confidence placed 
in Mr. Waring's statements, led to the sale of seeds to a 
large amount to growers in all parts of the country. 

I had seen the " Trophy " growing, the previous season, 
at " Ogden Farm," at Newport, R. L, and while I felt that 
Mr. Waring's description was by no means exaggerated, 
I declined to give him my opinion until it had been tested 
in other localities, where soil and climate were different. 
In 1870 I planted out a couple of dozen plants which had 
been started in the usual way, and tied them to stakes. 
Under the same conditions I planted the "New York 
Market," and " Rising Sun," the varieties we considered 
the best and earliest of last year's experiment. In earli- 



254 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

ness, the " Trophy " had no perceptible advantage over 
the other two but in size, smoothness, and beauty of 
coloring, as well as in solidity and flavor, it certainly ex- 
ceeded them. So that taking it all and all, I believe it to 
be thus far unexcelled, whether grown for j)rivate use or 
for market purposes. This opinion I find very generally 
concurred in, in all sections of the country wherever it has 
been submitted to a trial test with others. 

Early Smooth Red. — A very old variety, but one 
which, for general crop for market purposes, I believe is 




Fig. 69.— E ABLY SMOOTH RED TOMATO. 

yet unsurpassed. In the trial above referred to, it was 
tested w T ith the CooJc's Favorite, Tilden, and PowelVs 
Early, and with no perceptible advantage in earliness to 
either, but the Early Smooth presented the greatest 
amount of marketable fruit. This variety is of medium 
size ; rich coral-red ; roundish ; much flattened ; very solid. 
General Grant. — A very superior variety ; fruit large, 
round in form, slightly flattened, very smooth and sym- 
metrical. It ripens rapidly and thoroughly, is very solid, 
productive, and of good quality. 



VEGETABLES TOMATO — TURNIP. 255 

The Cook's Favorite.— Differing but little from the 
preceding, except in shape of the fruit, which is rounder 
and less flattened. It is grown largely of late years in 
the neighborhood of Philadelphia, and in southern New 
Jersey, but is not yet a " favorite " in New York. 

Fcjec Island, or Lester's Perfected. — The fruit of this 
variety is of the largest size; color reddish-pink; very 
solid, and well flavored ; a most abundant bearer. Its 
lateness, as well as its objectionable color, make it of lit- 
tle value as a market sort, but it is still grown by many. 

Red and Yellow Plum. — Beautiful varieties, never ex- 
ceeding 2 inches in length, by 1 inch in diameter. They 
are mainly used for pickling and preserving. 

Tree Tomato, or Tomate de Laye. — This variety is en- 
tirely distinct from all the others, in its upright and tree- 
like habit. It was introduced to this country some six or 
seven years ago, from France, but has never shown any 
quality deserving general cultivation, and is now only 
grown in private gardens more as a half useful curiosity 
than anything else. 



TURNIP. — (Brassica campestris.) 

The cultivation of the Turnip as an early crop for mar- 
ket purposes, sold bunched in the green state, is in all re- 
spects the same as detailed for Early Beets. The profits 
of the crop are also similar. The Turnip, however, for 
early crops, is rather more particular about soil than the 



256 GARDENING FOE PROFIT. 

Beet, and can best be produced early on light sandy or 
gravelly soils, highly enriched with manure. 

For late crops, sowings may be made, for Ruta Bagas, 
from May to September, in the different sections of the 
country ; here, the finest roots are obtained by sowing 
about first week in June. For white and yellow varieties, 
as they come quicker to maturity, sowing should be de- 
layed four or five weeks later. Here, we sow from the 
middle of July to the middle of August. 

Turnips, whether for early or late crops, should always 
be sown in drills, about 14 or 18 inches apart. In large 
quantities, they are sown by the machine, when one pound 
of seed will be enough for an acre. In the Northern 
States, it is necessary to take them up on the approach of 
severe weather, when they are best preserved during win- 
ter by being pitted, as recommended for other roots. The 
late crops of Turnips are by no means so profitable as the 
early, rarely realizing to the grower more than $75 per 
acre ; but like most other late crops of the garden or 
farm, they can be grown with less manure, are less perish- 
able if not immediately sold, and are consequently grown 
by the farmer on his less valuable but more extensive 
grounds. 

The following are the leading varieties grown. 

Purple Top Strap-leaved. — The variety mainly grown 
for early crop, attaining, when well grown, a diameter of 
5 to 6 inches, but is first gathered for market use at about 
half that size. It is a firm, solid variety, free from spon- 
giness, of very handsome appearance ; the lower two- 
thirds of the root is white, while the upper portion has a 
well defined line of purple. 



VEGETABLES — RUTA BAGA. 257 

White Strap-leaved. — This favorite sort has the 
same shape as the Purple Top, but entirely white ; it is 
equally early, and by some thought to be the best of all 
in flavor ; but is less salable in market, its appearance 
being less attractive. 

Yellow Aberdeen. — This is an excellent variety for culi- 
nary use, though not so early as the preceding ; the bulb 
is nearly round, of a dull yellow beneath, and purple or 
green at top. It is a very solid variety, keeping well 
throughout the winter, and as it attains a greater weight 
under favorable conditions, is much grown for stock. 



RTJTA BAGA, OR SWEDES TURNIP. 

Improved American. — The leading variety of this 
division of the family ; is grown very largely for winter 
sale in our northern markets. Under different culture, it 
assumes a great difference of shape and size, average speci- 
mens being 6 inches long, by 4 or 5 inches wide. It is 
always hard and solid, and is perhaps specifically heavier 
than any other vegetable root cultivated. 

Laing's Purple Top. — A rather late variety, but, in 
good land, giving enormous crops. It produces a great 
abundance of leaves, and for this reason requires at least 
a space of 18 inches between the rows, and 12 inches be- 
tween the plants. In shape, it is nearly round ; smooth 
skinned, and handsome. 



258 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

THYME, SAGE, SUMMER SAVORY, AND MAR- 
JORAM. 

I believe the cultivation of Sweet Herbs, for market 
purposes, is but little known in this country, except in the 
vegetable gardens in the vicinity of New York ; there it 
is practised to an extent of perhaps 60 or 70 acres, a fair 
average product of which would be about $500 per acre. 
Like the crops of Celery, Spinach, or Horseradish, they 
are grown only as a second crop, that is, they are planted 
in July, after an early crop of Peas, Cabbages, Beets, or 
Onions has been sold off. The varieties are Thyme, Sage, 
Summer Savory, and Sweet Marjoram, the former two 
being grown in the ratio of ten acres to one of the others. 

The seed is sown in April in rich mellow soil, carefully 
kept clean from weeds until the plants are fit to set out, 
which may be done any time that the ground is ready 
from middle of June until end of July. As the plants are 
usually small and delicate, it is necessary that the ground 
be well fined down by harrowing and raking before plant- 
ing. The distance apart, for all the varieties, is about the 
same, namely, 12 inches between the rows, and 8 or 10 
inches between the plants ; the lines are marked out by 
the "marker." (This is the "marker" used for many 
other purposes ; in lining out the rows for Early Cab- 
bages, for instance, every alternate line is planted, thus 
leaving them 2 feet apart, their proper distance.) In 
eight or ten days after the herb crop has been planted, the 
ground is " hoed " lightly over by a steel rake, which dis- 
turbs the surface sufficiently to destroy the crop of weeds 
that are just beginning to germinate ; it is done in one- 
third of the time that it could be done by a hoe, and an- 



SWEET HERBS— THYME SAGE ETC. 259 

swers the purpose quite as well, as deep hoeing at this 
early stage of planting is perfectly useless. In ten or 
twelve days more, the same operation is repeated with 
the steel rake, which usually effectually destroys all weeds 
the seeds of which are near enough to the surface to 
germinate. We use the steel rake in lieu of a hoe on all 
">ur crops, immediately after planting, for, as "before said, 
ieep hoeing on plants of any kind when newly planted, 
is quite unnecessary, and by the steady application of the 
fake, weeds are easily kept down, and it is great economy 
of labor never to allow them to start. By the middle of 
September the herb crop usually covers the ground com- 
pletely, looking like a field of clover. Allow this mass to 
grow for another month as it is, and you would not in- 
crease the weight of leaves; the plants would grow taller, 
keeping the green and marketable leaves on the top, but 
only yellow and withered ones and plenty of woody stems 
below. But by cutting out every alternate row (each 
plant making about two bunches), the remaining rows are 
allowed light and air, and in three or four weeks will have 
spread so as again to cover up the entire surface, from, 
which half the crop has already been gathered. We treat 
Thyme in all respects the same as Sage ; and I have seen 
both these herbs on rich soil not only meet when left 2 
feet apart, but when again every other row at 2 feet apart 
was cut out, almost meet at 4 feet apart. 

By this method of cutting out every other row, fully a 
double crop is taken, and of a quality superior to what it 
would be were it allowed to grow without being thus 
thinned out. About 18 years ago I was lucky enough to 
discover the importance of this plan of doubling our crops 



260 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

of herbs ; and as I had not, in those days, begun to tell 
" what I know about gardening," I kept my own counsel 
for some years before my neighbors discovered the plan. 

Herbs are regarded as a very safe crop for the mar- 
ket gardener ; they are less perishable than anything else 
grown, for, if there be any interruption to their sale in a 
green state, they can be dried and boxed up and sold in 
the dry state, months after, if necessary. The usual price 
is from $10 to $15 per 1,000 bunches, and we always pre- 
fer to dry them rather than sell lower than $10 per 1,000, 
experience telling us that the market will usually so reg- 
ulate itself as to handsomely pay for holding back the 
sale. The cost of getting the crop raised and marketed 
will average about $150 per acre, the principal expense 
being in tying it in bunches. But with many of our in- 
dustrious German gardeners it does not cost half that, as 
the tying up is usually done by their wives and children. 

There are but few varieties among Herbs, but of Thyme 
there are several, and it is very important to plant only 
what is known as the " spreading variety " ; an upright 
sort, sometimes sold, is worthless as a market crop. The 
JSage, known as the Broad-leaved, is the best. 

I am often asked, by correspondents at a distance, in 
relation to the best way of selling herbs in New York 
City. I will here say, that there is no certain sale that I 
know of, unless they are in the green state. The season 
for selling is October, November, and December; and if 
shipped in open crates, so arranged by divisions of slats 
that not more than 8 or 9 inches of a layer would be to- 
gether, they could be shipped at that cool season to dis- 
tances requiring fifty or sixty hours in the transit. 



MONTHLY CALENDAR. 



The success of all gardeii operations depends upon 
preparatory measures ; for this reason, the beginner in 
the business can be much benefited by being reminded, as 
he goes along, of the work necessary to be done to ensure 
successful results in the future. To do this, I must to 
seme extent repeat directions given in the body of the 
work, but as they will be presented here in a condensed 
form, they will not tax the time of the reader. As in all 
other references made to dates, the latitude of New York 
is taken as a basis, that being not only the point from 
which our experience has mostly been derived, but also 
one that will best suit the majority of readers throughout 
the country. Those whose location is more southerly or 
northerly must use their judgment in adapting the direc- 
tions to suit their locality. 

January. — Vegetation in our Northern States is com 
pletely dormant during this month, so that, as far as opera- 
tions in the soil are concerned, it might be a season of 
leisure ; but the business of gardening being one that so 
largely requires preparation, there is always plenty to do. 
261 



262 



GARDENING FOR FROFIT. 



The ground being usually frozen, and giving us good 
hauling, it is always the month in which our energies are 
given to getting manure, muck, lime, etc., into conveni- 
ent places for spring work. Care should be taken to get 
manure in heaps large enough to generate sufficient heat 
to prevent its being frozen, so that it can be turned and 
broken up thoroughly before it is spread upon the ground. 
This work is often very slovenly performed, and the value 
of manure much reduced by inattention to turning and 
breaking it up during winter. Sometimes it is injured by 
being thinly scattered, so that it freezes solid ; and again, 
if thrown into large heaps, and left unturned, it burns by 
violent heating, getting in the condition which gardeners 
call "fire fanged." It is always an indication that the 
manure heap needs turning when it is seen to emit vapor, 
no matter how often it has been turned previously, for it 
should always be borne in mind that it quickly loses by 
heating, while it always gains by a thorough breaking up 
in turning. 

January is usually the month in which we have our 
heaviest snow storms, which often entail on us an immense 
amount of necessary, though unprofitable labor, not only 
in clearing roads, but also in clearing off the snow from 
our cold frames and forcing pits, for even at this season of 
dormant vegetation, light is indispensable to the well-be- 
ing of our vegetable plants ; unless they are in a frozen 
conditio?!, that is, if we have had a continuation of zero 
weather, all our plants of Cabbage, Lettuce, Cauliflower, 
etc., are frozen in the cold frames; if in this state, the 
glass is covered up by snow, it is unnecessary to remove 
it even for two or three weeks, but if the weather hap 



MONTHLY CALENDAR. 263 

been mild so that the plants under the sashes have not 
been frozen when covered by snow, then the snow must 
be cleared from the glass as soon as practicable. In the 
green-houses, hot-beds, or forcing pits, where artificial heat 
is used, the removal of the snow from the glass is of the 
utmost consequence. 

If not done in December, the final covering up of Cel- 
ery trenches, root pits, and all things requiring protection 
from frost, should be attended to in the first week of this 
month. 

Should the ground be open enough to allow of dig- 
ging, (which occasionally occurs here even in January) 
let all roots, remaining in the ground, be dug up and pit- 
ted, as another chance is not likely to occur before spring. 
Cold frames and forcing pits, particularly the former, 
should be aired whenever the weather will permit, for it 
is necessary, to carry them safely through until spring, 
that they may be properly hardened. (See article on 
Cold Frames.) 

February. — The gardening operations differ but little 
from those of January, except that in the latter part of the 
month, as the days lengthen and the sun gets brighter, 
more air may be given to framing and forcing pits. Hot 
manure should now be got forward to be prepared for hot- 
beds, and if desired, some may be formed this month. (See 
article on Hot-beds.) Have all tools purchased or repair- 
ed, so that no time may be lost in the more valuable days 
of next month. It is important to have always spare 
tools of the leading kinds, so that men may not be thrown 
Ldle, at a hurried season, by the breaking of a fork, spade, 
or hoe. In harness and implements, connected with the 



264 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

teams, it is of great importance to have spare parts to 
replace those liable to be broken ; otherwise, frequently 
half a day is lost, by the breaking of a whiffle-tree, or 
plow share, causing more loss by delay, than three or four 
times the cost of the article. 

March — is one of the busiest months in the year with us. 
Hot-beds are made, and planted or sown, and Lettuce crops 
may be planted in cold frames and forcing pits, (see direc- 
tions under these heads). In the latter part of the month 
we often begin, on dry soils, the sowing or planting in the 
open ground of such hardy vegetables as Horseradish, 
Cabbage, Lettuce, Onions, Radishes, Turnips, etc., etc. 
Although we gain but little in earliness by starting before 
April, yet it forwards our operations, so that it equalizes 
labor more than when starting late in spring. Enthusi- 
astic besrinners must avoid the too common error of be- 
ginning out-door operations too soon, when the soil is 
not sufficiently dry ; for, if the soil is dug or plowed while 
wet, it is highly injurious, not only destroying the pres- 
ent crop, but injuring the land for years after. 

New plantations of Asparagus, Rhubarb, Sea Kale, and 
Artichokes may be made, and old beds top-dressed, by 
tigging in short manure close around the plants ; we con- 
sider it more economical of manure to do this in spring, 
than in fall. (See Asparagus.) 

Such roots as Cabbage, Carrot, Celery, Leek, Lettuce, 
Onion, Parsnip, etc., planted to produce seed, may be set 
out the latter part of this month, on soils that are warm 
and dry, drawing earth up around the crowns so as to 
protect them from sharp frosts ; in hoeing, in April, this 
soil is removed. 



MONTHLY CALENDAR. 265 

Where extra laborers are wanted for the garden, I have 
always considered it economy to secure them in the early 
part of March, even a week or two before they are really 
needed, for if the hiring of them is delayed until the rush 
of work is upon us, we often have to pay higher rates for. 
inferior hands, and have less time to initiate them in theif 
duties. To such as require large numbers of hands, and 
look to such ports as New York for emigrants, let me cau- 
tion my friends from the rural districts not to believe too 
implicitly in the promises of these prospective American 
citizens. Much vexatious experience has taught me 
that one out of every three men is either worthless, or 
will run away, so that for many years back, if I wanted 
four hands, I made one job of it and hired six, well know- 
ing, that before a week had passed, my force would be 
reduced to the required number. 

April — brings nearly all the operations of the garden 
under way, the planting and sowing of all the hardy vari- 
eties of vegetables is completed this month. (See table, 
in article on Seed Sowing). Look well to the hot-beds, 
cold frames, or forcing pits ; they will require abundance 
of air, and, (where artificial heat is used), plenty of water ; 
we have now bright sunshine, promoting rapid vegetation 
under glass, and to have heavy crops, they must not be 
stinted in water. Hot-beds are particularly critical in this 
month; an hour or two of neglect, in giving air, may 
quickly scorch the tender plants that you have been 
nursing with so much care for a month previous ; and a 
balmy April day may terminate in a stinging frost at 
night, making short work of your hot-beds if they are 
not well covered up by straw mats. 



266 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

Plantations of Asparagus, Rhubarb, etc., if not made 
last month, should now be done, as those set out later than 
April, will not make such a vigorous growth. Succession 
crops of Lettuce, Beets, Cabbage, Onions, Peas, Potatoes, 
Radishes, Spinach, Turnips, etc., may be planted or sown 
during the latter part of the month, to succeed those 
planted in March and early part of April. 

The early sown crops should be hoed, and the ground 
stirred close to the young plants, so as to destroy the germ 
of the weeds now appearing. 

Mat. — Although the bulk of the hardy vegetables is 
now planted, yet the tender varieties are still to come ; they 
require more care as they are more susceptible of injury, 
by too early or injudicious planting, than the others. In 
the early part of the month, the succession crops, named 
in April, may be yet planted so as to produce good crops, 
and the tender varieties, such as Bush Beans, Corn, Melon, 
Okra, Pepper, Squash, Tomato, may be sown or planted 
after the middle of the month ; but Egg Plants, Sweet 
Potatoes, Lima Beans, and Peppers, had better be delayed 
to the last week in May. The first produce of the spring 
plantings will now be ready for use. Lettuce or Radishes, 
planted in cold frames in March, are matured from 5th to 
20th May, and if covered up by straw mats at night, ten 
days earlier. In warm situations, on rich, light soils, the 
Radishes, Lettuce, Turnips, or Peas, planted in March, are 
fit for market. Rhubarb and Asparagus are also fit to be 
gathered, on early soils, the latter part of the month. 

Additional labor is now beginning to be required, 
the marketing of crops occupying a large portion of the 
time, while the thinning out of sown crops, and the keep- 



MONTHLY CALENDAR. 267 

ing down of weeds which are now showing themselves 
everywhere, entails an amount of labor not before neces- 
sary. To withhold labor at this critical time, is short- 
sighted economy, whether by the owner of a private 
or market garden ; for let the crops planted and sown, 
once get enveloped by weeds, it will often cost more in 
labor to clean the crop, than it will sell for ; it is not at all 
an uncommon occurrence to see acres of Carrots or Par 
snips plowed down, after being carefully manured and 
sown, from neglect or inability of the owner to procure 
labor at the proper time. The rapid development of weeds 
is, to the inexperienced, very deceptive ; a crop of Car- 
rots, Parsnips, Beets, or Onions, may appear to be easily 
manageable at a given day in May ; but a few days of con- 
tinued rain occurs, and the crop, that could have been 
profitably cultivated on the 15th, is hopelessly over-grown 
on the 25th. 

June is one of the months in which we reap the reward 
of our operations in the market garden ; at this time, 
the bulk of all the early crops matures. So far, nearly all 
has been outlay ; now we receive the returns. In this 
district, our early crops of Asparagus, Beets, Cauliflower, 
Cabbage, Lettuce, Onion, Peas, Radishes, Rhubarb, Spin- 
ach, and Turnip, are sold off, and the ground plowed for 
the second crop, (except in the cases of Asparagus and 
Rhubarb), by the end of the month. For private gar- 
dens, succession crops of Beets, Bush Beans, Cabbages, 
Cucumbers, Lettuce, Peas, Radishes, and Potatoes, may 
6till be planted, but it would hardly be profitable for mar- 
ket purposes ; as it would occupy the land wanted by the 
market gardener for his second crop, besides the market 



268 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

buyer of the cities will hardly touch a vegetable or fruit be 
hind its season at any price. He will pay 10 cents per bunch 
for Radishes in May, and will pass by a far better article 
of the same kind in July or August; though offered at one- 
fifth the price. He will give 50 cents per quart for Toma- 
toes, (half-ripe), in June, that he could not be induced to 
touch in October, if he could buy them at 25 cents per 
bushel. 

The Cucumbers, planted in cold frames and forcing 
pits, are also marketable in the latter part of this month. 
Great care must be taken to have them abundantly water- 
ed in dry weather ; inattention to watering, (particularly 
of all vegetables under glass), is sure to entail loss on the 
cultivator, by giving an imperfect or partial crop. Water- 
ing had better be done in the evening, whenever the surface 
appears dry, not by a mere sprinkling, but by a thorough 
soaking ; not less than a gallon to every square yard of 
surface. As soon as the Cucumbers are all cut from the 
frames, the sashes should be piled up at the ends of each 
section, and covered with a shutter, and a weight of some 
kind put on the top, to prevent them being blown off by 
high winds. 

July. — The remaining part of the spring crops are 
cleared off in the early part of this month, and by the 
middle of it, unless the season is unusually dry, all the 
ground is planted with the second crops of Celery, Sage, 
Thyme, Late Cabbage, Broccoli, Cauliflower, or Leeks. 
Little is done to these crops this month, as but little 
growth is made during the hot dry weather, and newly 
planted crops are merely stirred between the rows with 
the hoe or cultivator. Some of the other later crops are now 



MONTHLY CALENDAR. 269 

maturing for market. Bush Beans, Cucumbers, Potatoes, 
Squashes, and in early places, Tomatoes ; also succession 
crops of Peas, Beets, Onions, Cabbages, etc., such of 
these as only mature during the end of the month, render 
the second crops rather late, unless for the later crops of 
Celery and Spinach. 

August. — Except the months of January and Febru- 
ary, August is a month requiring less labor in the market 
garden than any other ; usually all the planting has been 
done in July, and the long drouths common at this season, 
stagnate the growth of even our most luxuriant weeds, 
so that in this month, of all others, the garden ought 
to be clean. 

Late plantings of Celery may be made, to the middle of 
the month, and still make fair-sized roots for winter. 
Spinach may also be sown for an early crop, to be cut off 
in fall. Ruta Baga Turnips should be sown early in the 
month, and the white and yellow varieties during the later 
part. If the fly attacks them, it may be kept down, so as 
to do but little harm, by frequent applications of lime, 
dusted lightly over the rows. Bush Beans and Peas, may 
still be sown for late crops. The Onion crop will ripen 
off during this month, and when convenient to market, 
should be offered for sale as soon as gathered, as the 
price received for those first sold, is frequently double that 
of those coming in ten days later. 

September. — The cool nights and moist atmosphere of 
this month begin to tell strikingly on the crops planted for 
fall use ; Celery, Cabbage, and Cauliflower, now grow rap- 
idly, and require repeated stirring of the soil with the 
plow, cultivator, or hoe. Celery, that is wanted for use 



270 ' k GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

towards the latter part of the month, may now be " han- 
dled," or straightened up, and the earth drawn to it by 
the hoe ; in a week or so after, it may be " banked up " 
by the spade to half its hight, allowed to grow for an- 
other week or more, until it lengthens out a little further, 
when the banking should be continued as high as its top. 
In ten days, (at this season), when thus finished, it is 
blanched sufficiently to use, and should then be used, or 
it will soon spoil. Care must be taken that no more is 
banked up than can be sold or used, as it is not only 
labor lost, but is decidedly hurtful to the Celery, by mak- 
ing it hollow. The practice recommended by most au- 
thorities, and still practiced by private gardeners, is, to 
keep earthing it up every two weeks from the time it 
begins to grow ; this is utter nonsense, resulting in giving 
Celery tough, stringy, and rusty — utterly unfit to eat, 
while the expenditure in labor would be twice more than 
the price it would bring if sold ; for further information 
on this important subject, see article on Celery. The seeds 
of Cauliflower, Cabbage, and Lettuce, should be sown this 
month, from the 10th to the 20th, for the purpose of be- 
ing pricked out in cold frames to be wintered, over ; it is 
very important that the sowing should be done as near 
these dates as possible, for if sown much before the 10th, 
the plants may run up to seed when planted out in spring, 
if much later than the 20th, they would be too weak to 
be wintered over. Shallots and Onions should also be 
planted this month, and Spinach and German Greens, or 
*' Sprouts," sown to be wintered over, all now for spring use 
October. — This month corresponds in part to June of 
the summer months, being tha* in which the returns from 



MONTHLY CALENDAR. 271 

the second crops come in. Celery, that has been banked 
or earthed up, now* sells freely and in considerable quanti- 
ties ; all the crop should this month be " handled," and 
as much as possible earthed up. Cauliflower is always 
scarce and dear in the early part of this month, but unless 
the fall has been unusually moist, is generally not matured 
until towards the end of the month. Thyme, Sage, and 
all Sweet Herbs, should now be sold, from the beginning 
of the month, cutting out only every alternate row, as it 
gives the crop time to grow, so that the remaining rows 
spread sufficiently to fill the space. (See article on 
Thyme, etc). 

The crops planted or sown last month, must now be 
carefully hoed, and the weeds removed; for, though 
weeds are not quite so numerous in variety as in summer, 
Chickweed, now very abundant, is one of the most ex- 
pensive weeds of the garden to eradicate. 

The plants of Cabbage, Cauliflower, and Lettuce, re- 
commended to be sown last month, are now fit to be 
pricked out in the cold frames. (See detail of the process.) 

November. — -This month warns us that winter is ap- 
proaching, and preparations should be carefully made to- 
wards securing all products of the garden that are perish- 
able by frost. The process of putting away the Celery 
crop in trenches for winter use, (see Celery article), should 
be begun about the 5th or 10th of the month in dry 
weather ; that put in trenches then, will be blanched suf 
ficiently for use in six or eight weeks, but when sufficient 
*ielp can be obtained, it will always pay well to bank or 
«arth up a large portion of Celery by the spade, clear to 
the top; this will keep it safe from injury from any 



272 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

frost that we have in this month, and thus protected, it 
need not be put away into winter quarters — the trenches 
—before the end of November; put away thus late, it will 
keep without the loss of a root until March or April, 
when it is always scarce and high in price. 

The great difficulty most persons have, is from stowing it 
.away and covering it up too early ; this practice of earth- 
ing it up to the top roughly in November we have only 
practiced for the past two seasons, but find the extra labor 
well repaid, as we are enabled thus to save this very valu- 
able crop without loss. There is rarely need of applying 
any covering of leaves or litter to the trenches this 
month, and it cannot be too often told that the cov- 
ering up of vegetables of all kinds in winter quarters 
should be delayed to the very last moment that it is safe 
to do so. Beets, Carrots, Cabbages, and Cauliflowers, 
must be dug up, and secured this month in the manner re- 
commended in "Preserving Vegetables in Winter." 
Horseradish, Salsify, and Parsnips, being entirely hardy, 
and frost proof, need not necessarily be dug, although 
from the danger of their being frozen in the ground nexif 
month, if time will permit, the work had better be prog- 
ressing. 

All clear ground should be dug or plowed, and properly 
leveled, so that on the opening of spring operations can 
be begun with as little delay as possible. If draining is 
required, this is the most convenient time to do it, the 
ground being clear, and not yet much frozen. 

Towards the end of the month, the sashes should be put 
on the Cabbage and Lettuce plants in cold nights, but on 



MONTHLY CALENDAR. 273 

no account should they be kept on in day time, as it is of 
the utmost importance that they be not made tender at 
this time by being "drawn" under the sashes. I may 
again repeat that these plants are half hardy, and it is 
killing them with kindness to protect them from slight 
freezing. Cabbage and Lettuce plants may be exposed 
in any place without glass, or other protection, where the 
thermometer runs no lower than 10 above zero. Rhubarb 
and Asparagus beds will be benefited by a covering of 4 
or 6 inches of rough manure, or any other litter, to pre- 
vent the severity of the frost ; the crop from beds, thus 
covered, will come in a few days earlier, and will be 
stronger than if left unprotected. 

December. — Occasionally, we have the ground open 
so that digging and plowing can be done to nearly the end 
of the month, but it is not safe to calculate much after the 
first week ; though by covering up the roots, still undug, 
with their own leaves or with litter, we are often enabled 
to dig our Horseradish or Parsnips very late in the month, 
and like all other vegetables, the later they remain in the 
soil they grow in, the finer is the quality. 

Celery trenches should receive the first covering, early 
in the month, if the weather has been such that it has been 
unnecessary before ; the covering should not be less than 
4 or 5 inches of litter or leaves, only taking care that the 
material is light, weight or closeness would prevent evap- 
oration too much at this season, while the weather is not 
yet severe ; the final covering should not be later than the 
end of the month. 

The crops of Spinach, Kale, Onions, Shallots, etc., that 
have been planted or sown in September, should be cov- 



274 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

ered up with bay or straw if their position is much expos- 
ed ; if not, there is no particular necessity. When all has 
been secured safely in winter quarters, attention must be 
energetically turned to procuring manure, muck, and all 
available kinds of fertilizers; there is little danger of 
spending too much in this way if you have it to spend — 
depend upon it, there is no better investment if you are 
working your Garden for Profit. 



INDEX. 



Artichoke, Globe 116 

" Jernsalem 117 

Asparagus 107 

Balm 119 

Basil 118 

Bean, Bush or Snap .119 

" Running or Pole 122 

Beet 124 

Borecole 129 

Broccoli 131 

Brussels Sprouts 133 

Cabbages, Club Root in 100 

Cabbage, Early 137 

" Late 145 

*' Turnip-rooted 186 

Carrot 148 

Cauliflower 134 

Capital Required in Gardening 14 

Capsicum 224 

Cardoon 148 

Celeriac 164 

Celery 151 

*' Preserving in Winter .157 

•' Turnip-rooted 164 

Chard, Swiss 127 

Chervil, Turnip-rooted 151 

Chives 165 

Cold-Frames 49 

Colewort 168 

Collards 168 

Corn 169 

Corn Salad 165 

Cress 165 

Cress, Water 166 

Crops, Rotation of 86 

Cucumber 172 

Drainage 29 

Egg Plant 176 

Endive 179 

Fertilizers 36 

Fetticus 165 

Forcing Pits 63 

Freezing and Thawing 53 

275 



Frost, Protection from 60 

Garlic 181 

Green-houses . 63 

" " Heating 70 

" " Watering 66 

Greens, German 129 

Ground, Preparation of. 31 

Gumbo 20S 

Herbs, Sweet 258 

Hot-Beds 55 

" '■ Watering 58 

Horseradish 181 

Insects 99 

" Asparagus Beetle ..115 

" Cabbage Caterpillar 103 

Implements 39 

" Clod-Crusher 44 

" Cultivator 42 

" Dibber 47 

" Digging Fork 41 

" narrow 40 

" Marker, Double 45 

" Garden Roller 45 

44 Plow, Cylinder 39 

" " Skeleton 42 

" " Subsoil 40 

" Pronged Hoe 43 

" Scuffle Hoc 44 

" Seed Drill 47 

" Shutters 60 

" Spade 41 

" Steel Rake 43 

" Straw Mats 61 

" Watering Pot 53 

Kale 129 

Kohl Rabi 186 

Leek 187 

Lettuce 1S8 

" Forcing 67 

Marjoram, Sweet 195-258 

Manures 34 

Market Garden, Location 24 

" " Situation 25 



276 



INDEX. 



Market Garden, Laying Out 25 

Market Gardens, London 21 

Market Wagon 46 

Martynia . .201 

Melon 196 

" Water 198 

Men, Number Required per Acre.. . 16 

Mint 200 

Mushroom 202 

Mustard 202 

Nasturtium 208 

New Zealand Spinach 244 

Okra 20S 

Onion 210 

41 Sets 211 

" Potato 217 

44 Top 217 

O rach 2 14 

Oyster Plant 236 

" " Black 237 

Parsley 217 

Parsnips 219 

Peas 221 

Pepper 224 

Peppergrass 165 

Plants, Cabbage and Cauliflower... 59 

V Number to Acre 89 

•' Sweet Potato 59 

" Tomato, etc 58 

Potato 225 

" Sweet 247 

Profits of Market Gardening IS 

Pumpkin 229 

Eadish 229 

" Late 231 

Ehubarb 232 

14 Forcing 234 

Euta Baga 257 

Sage 258 

Salad Patches 190 

Salsify 236 

" Black 237 

Scorzonera 237 

Seakale 238 

Seeds, Failure of 77 

u Germinating Temperature... S3 
44 Lawsuit about 81 



Seeds, Purity of .' 73 

" Quantity per Acre 87 

" Raising 74 

11 Soil for 83 

" Sown in Hot-Beds 85 

" Tables of 88-89 

" Vitality of 76 

44 When to Sow 79 

Shallots 240 

Soils 26 

Sorrel 240 

Spinach 241 

44 New Zealand 244 

Sprouts 129 

Squash 244 

44 Summer 246 

44 Winter 246 

Summer Savory 253 

Swedes Turnip 257 

Sweet Corn 169 

Sweet Herbs 258 

Sweet Marjoram 195-258 

Sweet Potato 247 

Swiss Chard 127 

Thyme 253 

Tomato , 249 

Transplanting 90 

Turnip 255 

" Swedish 25T 

"Vegetable House 25 

Vegetable Plants, Planting 91 

Vegetables, Packing for Shipping.. 94 
44 Preservation in Winter 96 

Watermelon 193 

Monthly Calendar of Operations. 

January 261 

February 263 

March 264 

April 265 

May 266 

June . . 267 

July 263 

August 269 

September 269 

October 270 

November 271 

December .273 



LB D '09 



